Oil pump selection for PDS
Hi Guys, I'm fitting a Whipple 2.9L charger kit to my VE ute and want to install a new oil pump for peace of mind while I'm at it.
Melling offer a few options, standard replacement, high volume standard pressure, high pressure standard volume, high pressure high.
Should I consider an option outside of standard pressure/volume?
My ute is a manual, with standard internals and compression dropped to 9:1 with thicker head gaskets.
any advice appreciated!
Melling offer a few options, standard replacement, high volume standard pressure, high pressure standard volume, high pressure high.
Should I consider an option outside of standard pressure/volume?
My ute is a manual, with standard internals and compression dropped to 9:1 with thicker head gaskets.
any advice appreciated!
Thanks for all the feedback so far!
I didn't mention in my original post, I have a L77 engine and the transmission is a TR6060.
Yes, stock internals, but will be using ARP bolts on my connecting rods and thicker Cometic head gaskets (9:1 compression ratio)with ARP head bolts. Other mods include a BTR blower cam, matched dual valve springs and hardened push rods. I know most of the mods mentioned don't affect my actual question, but it just gives a overall view of my build.
Will I rev to 7000, I'm not 100% what my tuner will allow/set the limiter to, currently I'm set to high 6000's, but maybe with the ARP connecting rod bolts etc he may be comfortable upping it a little bit.
Let me leave with this question, will using a Melling high pressure, high volume pump (Melling 10296) have any negative effects in my build? I'm all for the idea as long as it is overkill rather than a mis match with ill effects.
thanks,
Rob
I didn't mention in my original post, I have a L77 engine and the transmission is a TR6060.
Yes, stock internals, but will be using ARP bolts on my connecting rods and thicker Cometic head gaskets (9:1 compression ratio)with ARP head bolts. Other mods include a BTR blower cam, matched dual valve springs and hardened push rods. I know most of the mods mentioned don't affect my actual question, but it just gives a overall view of my build.
Will I rev to 7000, I'm not 100% what my tuner will allow/set the limiter to, currently I'm set to high 6000's, but maybe with the ARP connecting rod bolts etc he may be comfortable upping it a little bit.
Let me leave with this question, will using a Melling high pressure, high volume pump (Melling 10296) have any negative effects in my build? I'm all for the idea as long as it is overkill rather than a mis match with ill effects.
thanks,
Rob
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I wouldn't drop the compression too much with gaskets, 9.5-9.75 is as low as I'd go, 10:1-10.4:1 would be fine.
No downsides to extra pump pressure and flow, just overfill the pan by a quart or two, if you aren't drag racing and cutting really short 60' times starvation won't be an issue.
You'll have to see where it stops making power and determine a shift point from there, I probably wouldn't go over 7,500rpm.
I'm sure there are others who have but 7,500+rpm is a big ask for hypereutectic pistons and PM rods with that much stroke.
Besides a Whipple with a six speed, gears 1-2 will be pretty useless so all your action is gonna happen top of 3rd and 4th gear.
No downsides to extra pump pressure and flow, just overfill the pan by a quart or two, if you aren't drag racing and cutting really short 60' times starvation won't be an issue.
You'll have to see where it stops making power and determine a shift point from there, I probably wouldn't go over 7,500rpm.
I'm sure there are others who have but 7,500+rpm is a big ask for hypereutectic pistons and PM rods with that much stroke.
Besides a Whipple with a six speed, gears 1-2 will be pretty useless so all your action is gonna happen top of 3rd and 4th gear.
My vote has always been high pressure/ STD volume for most any LS type truck moter that the end user wants RPM. With that said focus on valve train stability cause it matters just as much if not more than oil supply, but remember here being cheap is expensive. Cause not doing it right the first time will make you spend twice..... Either way happy wrenching sir .
I believe the pan is more important than the pump. If you have a F body pan on anything, get it off if you're going to start leaning on it. When you couple a HV pump, with a F body pan, well, your just asking to have Rodney come knocking, quart or 2 over, or not.
I've got plenty of data logs in Holley to back this up.
I've got plenty of data logs in Holley to back this up.
I believe the pan is more important than the pump. If you have a F body pan on anything, get it off if you're going to start leaning on it. When you couple a HV pump, with a F body pan, well, your just asking to have Rodney come knocking, quart or 2 over, or not.
I've got plenty of data logs in Holley to back this up.
I've got plenty of data logs in Holley to back this up.
My choice would be high pressure standard volume, You're going to putting a lot more pressure on the nose of the crankshaft with a belt driven supercharger so it's not technically stock anymore.










