Brick vs Box a/w intercoolers
Kicking around doing a brick intercooler, specifically the 3" one made by Tick that will work with his TSP intake. Or, doing a box style intercooler maybe mounted in the driver's front corner of his car (69 camaro).
So what we're curious about, are the gains roughly the same for either? This would be with a 370, single 94 on C16 (fuel might change).
I am wondering if the starting line temps and end of the pass temps would be the same or one is better?
Box:
Tick:
Last edited by Pro Stock John; Dec 20, 2022 at 02:56 PM.
I have reservations about those brick type intake coolers unless its a Shearer, the surface area and distance that the air spends in contact with the surface seems far less than a box style.
I'm sure the Tick unit is fine and support will be great, but I'd rather go a little overkill and oversize the cooler than cross my fingers on a brick style hoping it works.
As far as temps go starting and ending, my temps are solid for the entire run and remain relatively unchanged, now this is a street hit but it's still brake boosting from a slow roll (5-10mph) and then running it all the way out through third gear up to 150mph but my temps are within a few degrees the entire run where as you already know an A2A setup will see some rise and is dependent on ambient temp for efficiency as well.
Have you logged IAT temp rise with your setup yet btw?
Unless Tick can make a great case for theirs, I'd go with a box.
Just my $.02
Temp would rise maybe 20-30* in the 1/8. Around 60-70* on the line & 80-100* at the stripe depending on ambient temps & turning blower at least max rpm.
Q16 I think for fuel.
Typically see 120-125* on warm days through the 1/4 traps. 5.3L on 30-35# from a GT55 94mm
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They vary so drastically by the sender, and time more than anything. At the end of the day they are all very slow and the length of pull is a major influence to what you are see and thinking as your true temperature
As far as gross cooling capacity and restriction, the box has the advantage as it does not have the size constraints of a brick. It can have greater cooling capacity with less airflow restriction. The more you pack heat exchanger into an intake/brick type the more you increase air restriction and the benefit of a larger heat exchanger diminishes with increasing size. As the water flows through the heat exchanger it warms so the air at the end of the line is not cooled as much as the air where the water enters the heat exchanger. Poor cylinder #7 gets shafted again although I am sure there is some amount of mixing.
The brick has the advantage of removing the heat soak of the intake.
I don't know the thermal efficiency of heat exchangers available for intake type intercoolers but I would think any configuration could be used for either. I am looking into this for another reason. I would like to have an intake with an integral heat exchanger that will fit under a C6 Corvette hood. The Laminova heat exchanger looks interesting
The true answer would require measuring IAT's after the brick. Anyone know how to do that accurately?
this is 4 Garrett 750hp cores, with 90* water flowing at 20gpm, and all high speed therms extended into the fastest flow velocity
this is nearly a 14 second pull to over a 200mph halfmile
Just look at the discharge temperature, trust me when the boost is there the temperature is there, it isn’t rising the whole time, you are just watching the response to get to actual temperature , you can see even in this long pull discharge temp still hasn’t got there
if I did a dyno pull I’d be like oh wow my IC gains 1*
if I did an 1/8 I’d be like wow 5*
if I did a quarter I’d be like 15*
half mile ect
and that is literally best case scenario, it gets only worse and fast from that with how people have sensors configured and what sensors
it really comes down to, and what you should be looking and comparing
core volume
core quality (tubulator design and density)
water flow volume
I don’t have my computer in front of me, but if memory serves I’m leaving the line probably low-mid 70s with my use method. I’ve done the whole pre-chill thing and left the line at considerably lower IAT but found the effort of doing all that to be worth next to nothing in terms of IAT down track. The core goes ice cold nearly instantly as soon as the pump comes on.
also. I have the sensor tapped in to the belly of the lower intake mani between cylinders. I guess that would be the “most” accurate, but I also found it to make no difference in readings there compared to just threading it in to the back of the manifold where there is already a spot for it












