What turbo should I get, I want to fab up something like the STS kit to start with but I want a turbo that will work good, not the "best" out there, just enough to net me at least 500rwhp. I'd like to get one that I could get out of the junkyard or someplace like that for cheap. My goal is to achieve 500rwhp for less than a grand more than what I already have done. I already have PP heads (mild), cam 221 558 114. Jet hot LT's, 3500SY, PTB, I'll be getting HPtuners this week so that I can start to figure out the computer tuning. Any help with good placement and pipe size, location of the STS kit is appreciated.
Wolfee

 

Any ideas would be great guys, maybe I should call this the budget build up
Wolfee

 

Get a used supercharger... You wont find a turbo big enough to be run as a single for under a grand more than what you have spent already... Even if by luck you found one for a grand there is the matter of the rest of the parts you would still need.

500 RWP horsepower is easy with a centrifugal SC...

 

You might be able to use one of the factory Ford Powerstroke truck turbos. I've seen them hit 480rwhp on a motor with low boost. I also have a te-63 (45) and a pt-72 that can be had for $700 and $1200 respectively...shipped.

 

You can pick up a master power T70 or 62-1 for about 650 bucks.

 

Yea, you sure can. Then he has to lay down another $80 - 100 for a heavy duty waste gate plus shipping. Plus a Master Power T70 is NOT a polished 4 bolt flange PT-72.

 

nitrous works well

 

Master power unit is a good choice, and good for the budget minded.

Jose

 

Scott

p.s. since i have the right fuel setup..i run 200 shot all day long already with 365 RWHP. she scoots and she is cheap.

 

$1,000 for the total turbo setup? That does not sound realistic. I would think that you would be a true cost of at least $2,000 for a decent turbo and all the other parts you need. I'd look at used TTi kits if you want a cheap deal.

 

Little update, I'm buying a t70 masterbuilt off e-bay for $600 new. I figure the injectors will be $350 for a set of used 42lb's and the tubing will be under $200 so I figure for sure it will be less than $1400. Wish me luck, oh yeah, I'm going to use a stand alone oiling system also with a low pressure switch and a fuel pump type pump to recirculate the oil through an oil cooler and resevoir.
Wolfee

 

First off, what size exhaust AR on the turbo, and what Trim?

500rwhp doesn't come that easy. You will also need a wastegate that can handle it. You can probably get something worthy on Ebay for a couple hunded bucks, just don't get a Deltagate!

FWIW, I think $200 is a VERY light estimate on tubing ( I would AT LEAST double that). Unless you aren't going to use mandrel bent stainless pieces? If not, then you will have to have everything Jet Hot 2500 coated, which will run in the area of $4-500. Otherwise, it will just rust apart almost immediately.

Then you will also need silicone and good clamps. Keep in mind, silicone elbows are HIGH too and good SS clamps are about $5-7 each. which adds up quick.

Don't forget flanges! Laser cut stainless flanges are also expensive.

And at 500rwhp, if your car is an M6, you'll need a BOV. But if you use two of the cheap Bosch one's (about $50/each), that'll work.

Another tip, IMHO, I'd scrap the scavenge pump idea. Nothing but trouble. Save your money on that crap and spend it on time mounting the turbo so it can gravity drain.

Regarding the Intercooler, the Ford Powerstroke IC's work pretty good on the Turbo Buicks. And you can get one reasonable at a junkyard.

It's all the little stuff that will nickel and dime you to death...fittings, gaskets, hardware, etc.

A single Walbro 340 in the tank with a Hotwire kit and stock lines and rails will support your goal easily. We've made 775rwhp with that setup (though I don't recommend it).

Hope that helps,

 

Yah I spent like $150 on pipe and it was not even stainless, and probably not as many pieces as a turbo kit would cost. I also have probably $200 in fittings and $200 in couplers. I mean if you can weld and have access to cheap 3.0 or 3.5" tubing you might be able to pull together a cheap setup but the hard parts alone should be well over $2,000.

 

Some good advice Rob, nothing is ever cheap or "budget" when putting a turbo(s) on a car or truck. It can be done for less cost than buying in kit form but there is still a huge expense with hardware, silicon hose, clamps, etc. I hope that off the shelf T70 Master turbo works for you, plan to spend another $100 - 300 on either an internal or external gate. Good luck.

Hey, my Deltagate has been working on my car pretty good for the last 3 years! Hahahaa...

 

NOSJohn - I hear ya on the Deltagate. I never had any problems with them on my Turbo Buick's either...until I got over 500rwhp. Then they simply couldn't hold the boost steady. But thinking about it more now, I was also running well over 20psi then. Hmmm.....guess it just left a bad taste in my mouth.

 

I appreciate the information Rob, I do weld and I do plan on using stainless steel for my automatic equipped car What wastegate do you recommend? I'm deffinately open to recommendations! Rob, you also said to concentrate on a gravity flow for the oiling, I plan on doing the STS type kit so what do you recommend for this kind of application, should I put together a set-up like STS has with the engine pushing the oil to the turbo and an electric pump to return it to the oil pan or??? I'll probably do whatever you suggest because you certainly know what you are doing with the FI and other stuff BTW!
Scott

 

The AR ,turbine and compwheels are the most important question... For external gates run a tial..... I have had good luck with 38mm internal gates on turbos with a properly matched AR and turbine as long as you are NOT trying to run a big turbo like a baby... It is harder to screw up with a big external I agree... What I'm used to running has peak efficiency around a 2.5 I have had no problems keeping them where I want them with a BIG internal gate and just the right AR for the motor...

Just burns SS 4-1 turbo collector is over $200....

I'd get some high quality ss mandrel bends and do use 321 20gauge.

I'd run aluminum mandrels for the bends (a tight *** can run steel ), get the silicone straight tubing from the local detroit or cummins dealer and run T-bolt clamps.. "Performance" versions are only better looking than the right HD industrial parts. Build the hard tubing to use the minimal amount of silicone yets still have enough give to allow for engine mount movement.


Look for used BOV's on ebay.. DSM, WRX and supra parts traders.. I have worked with about 99% of the models out there.. See one and you are like ? just tell me what it is and give you the skinny.. I'd run one even on an automatic. I have seen diesels (no throttle plate) surge and wreck turbos on shifts.... IMHO you cant go wrong with a high flowing good quality BOV on ANY turbo system just avoid crap and gimmicks... Yes manual gasoline engine applications canl shred a turbo without one... Autos shift quicker.. but on a street car or road race car you may go wot to part/closed fast in corners etc..... Even a drag car when you let off and get back on it to get traction back.... A bigger blowoff valve that vents the plumbing faster makes for alot less lag between shifts or any point when you go off and on the throttle.....


I agree but the one time a scavenge pump is good is when you have a mechanical and also use it on the topside of the engine (VC/lifter valley) to draw a vaccum in the crankcase.. It kills multiple birds with one stone... Less blow by due to better ring seal, no breather problems or catch can plumbing needed, less crankcase windage loss etc.... The itty bity electric ones from low mount turbo kits suck..... A setup like that is worth it..

The newer TD truck stuff is getting better with core quality near sports cars... I have seen supra and rx7 stuff used as is or converted to A2W...



[QUOTE=Rob Raymer]A single Walbro 340 in the tank with a Hotwire kit and stock lines and rails will support your goal easily. We've made 775rwhp with that setup (though I don't recommend it).[QUOTE]


I dont either walbro pumps are pretty junky as compaired to bosch and denso OEM... Check racingjunk and other boards... Get a SX, Aero or paxton then put a sump kit on your tank... Then you are ready for anything in the future like quick short times (60') w/o fuel starvation. Leaning out bad under boost is'nt so nice a thing..

 

This will probably support 500rw. It even has two turbine inlets so you won't have to merge the pipes. Might be tough to find a place for it though.

Those shiny objects are quarters.

 

Scott, if you are going to do an STS style kit, you are right. You will have to run a scavenge pump type system. I don't see any way around it. Just make sure you buy the right pump the first time. (I hear that Tilton makes some really good pumps, though I have no personal experience with them.....anyone??)

V8_DSM gave some great advice also. He also sounds like he has a little experience with turbo's.

Regarding wastegate's, if you are going to opt for "new", then the Turbosmart gates or the Turbonetics are probably the best deals going right now. I can PM you a quote if you want.

It's been a long time Scott, maybe we should just start from a clean slate, huh? Give me a call or PM if I can help in any way with your project.

 

Yea, I'm only pushing 350rwhp with my te-44, unless I'm going to shoot it with the 100/125 shot of juice. However, for reasons of using it as a daily driver, playing with the nitrous is on the back burner. Got anything trade for a clean WE4? Heh heh...