Long post... sorry!
I am coming near to order my turbo(finally getting the 4l80 built right now).
I will be running a tick intercooler on a holley low rise intake in a 1970 c10 so I can package it nicely without a bunch of cold side tubing. I was going to throw a 2650 on it, then realized for the cost of an LSA or even the 2650 I can have a pretty radical turbo set up for MUCH less than I would spend on a supercharger... however, I don't want it to be a complete dog to drive around.
This will be a semi-daily driven truck(I have a commuter car, but in the off chance I can't drive it I will drive the truck and use it as a truck for hauling lumber or whatever I find on craigslist).
Combo:
370ci forged 6.0
btr stage 2 turbo cam: Specs: 226/231 .610"/.608" 113+4
LSA heads
Holley low ram intake with tick intercooler
4l80e with a yank or circle D converter 258mm(triple disk with a 3300 or so stall speed)
3.73 or 4.10 out back
31 inch tall tires
Prefer a t4 flange since I will be using a truck manifold, but can buy an adapter if absolutely necessary.

I want a turbo that is fun on the street. I was DEAD SET on an s480 but after a few videos I've seen I'm a little concerned with how it might act on the street. Originally I wanted 1000rwph dyno capable, with the main real goal of 800rwph.(I want to outrun my buddies big block chevelle that's about 600rwhp) so the 800rwhp goal remains, but if I don't get the 4 digit dyno number I don't care.. sure it would be cool, but I would rather give that up to have something that is more fun to drive.

The turbos I have kind of narrowed it down to:
S480 T4(1.25ar):https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-80mm-billet-t4-96x88-turbine-wheel-1-25-slip/] https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-80mm-billet-t4-96x88-turbine-wheel-1-25-slip/[/url]

S480 T6(1.30ar): https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-8...0ar-with-slip/

7875 gen 3(1.24ar).: https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-gen3-7875-billet/

s475(summit 1.32ar): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-260050

78 83(1.25ar): https://shop.forcedinductions.com/fo...4-housing-copy This one is a little more than I want to spend, but if it fits the bill, I might just save up an additional month.



Thanks!

 

I'd talk to Jose at FIS and see what he says but I'm leaning towards the last one, outta spool fast and make 800whp but may not quite get to 1,000whp.

 

How much would the 2650 be? Is it really cheaper?

I think I ran that converter in a 6L80E version in my 5th gen. Maybe ask Pete Nichols at Circle D if that's the one he'd run?

 

Hey, I ran a PD blower on my mustang, and my Dad's hellcat has a PD blower. Thing with those kits is that the intercooler and heat exchangers that come with them are typically the absolute minimum that will work, and I can tell you from lots of experience that PD blowers get really hot and heat soak. So, if you are looking at a kit for say a 2650 and it has 5/8 lines and inlets and outlets, etc., that's not even close to sufficient. And the pumps that come with the kits are usually very minimal as well. I looked up the 2650 and it says the charge cooler has 1" ports, so that's really good. Didn't see anything about the heat exchanger that comes with it and what size ports that has, how big it is/thick, or what pump comes with it.

I got a VSR80 T6 turbo, and a big thing is packaging. Granted I am putting it in an 07 Mustang/LS, but that turbo is big, and we will have to do some major mods to get it in there. I would never go this route if I were paying someone to do it, but I do all my own work on my cars (except transmission build).

Looks like, from just searching it, that the 2650 is almost $8,000.

 

Yes it is CONSIDERABLY cheaper. A 2650 STARTS at 8000, not including pulley/idler/tentioner/throttle body bracket/mount... Just keeps going up from there. It would likely come out to 10 grand easily.

 

Yeah and that price is just the unit itself not anything else to actually make it turn.
I do all my work since I can't afford to pay someone else lol

I'm not sure what turbo at all... The last one is double the price of all the others which MIGHT just rule it out.
I'm liking the t4 s480(it's a c10 so fitment shouldn't be too bad unless it hits the hood from the flange).
I think the forced induction is the best unit..... But as a first turbo build its hard to justify that kind of price for a turbo when I have no idea what I'm doing 😂

 

At a race weight of 4160, a mild 6.0, 4L80E, and a NextGen 78/75, I went 9.32@147, and boost was very quick and easy to make...through a 3" exhaust with a cutout. Never had any lag.

Upgraded to this one:
https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-8...87x82-turbine/

DEFINITELY makes more power, BUT does have some lag now. I'm fairly sure I can tune most of it out, but it is/was very noticeable with just the turbo swap. Ironically, it felt more "laggy" with a 4" open, short downpipe, than it does now with a 4" to 3" transition into my old 3" exhaust and cutout...

My son has the exact same turbo that he's already removing (& selling) to go bigger, FWIW.

Honestly, I regret not hanging onto my 78/75. It was more fun, on the street, imo...

 

That should be about what this truck will weight for a "race weight"(it weighed 3600lbs with the inline 6 and th350 it had behind it) I figured the ls and 4l80 would easily add 200 lbs plus my 300lb *** in it... 4100-4200 would be close!
I am leaning toward the 78/75 gen 3. If it can push something into the 9's... that should be PLEANTY for what I want to do. My buddy's chevelle should run mid 10s pretty easily(my camaro does and his chevelle feels about the same) maybe MAYBE touch 9s but that is a very big maybe.
The 78/75 would be easy to package and be good on the street. I wonder if it will touch my 800rwhp goal.

 

Was this a .96 or 1.25 A/R exhaust housing? I have the Gen 2.5 billet 78/75 with a .96 A/R and I was planning on running it through a stock style 3" exhaust... If you were running that quick with that combo, I won't be on the fence about keeping it, lol.

 

I ran an old *** 76GTS (older version of a Precision 7675) on my 5.7L combo many many years back and it made full boost by 3800 rpms and held all the way to 6800 rpms and that car went 8.9s @ 151 mph. I still believe that a 7675 type turbo is a great option for most typical 5.7/6.0 street driven combos since it spools pretty damn quick, is a relatively small package, and is capable of 900 rwhp or so. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of other badass turbos that are the same size and make more power but they are easily twice the price of a cast wheel precision 7675.

 

The 7875 would make gobs of torque down low where you would need it.
One of the guys on here used a 7875 on a 6.0 and made like 1,007 lb/ft of torque.

 

Both the cast one, and the NextGen billet one I used, were 3" outlet, .96 a/r.

My car ran pretty much identical times and MPH with the 3" cutout, as it did with a 4" short open downpipe.

The new 80/82 is 4" outlet, and I guess I'm getting old, as the 4" open downpipe (pointing straight down from turbo), was too damn loud driving around.
I used the 4" to 3" stainless adapter I had to adapt my old 3" exhaust and cutout to the 4" turbo outlet. Car ran, so far, its best MPH that way, with the 80/82. Once I get the launch rpm and boost consistent, I'm hoping for a 9.0, or that elusive 8. Never been on a dyno, but the online calculators say its making some decent power for having, still, a smaller turbo.

Good Luck

 

Quoting this for truth to everyone that always jumps to push people to a larger turbo.

 

I agree LOL everyone I have spoken to or asked all keep making the turbo larger and larger, I started to second guess what I wanting out of the darn truck.
This makes me thing the gen 3 7875 would be ideal for what I want to do.

 

Well, that would be amazing if I could that hahaha, I think it would fit my needs well, and honestly, if it doesn't make 800rwhp from what I've seen on other combos.. there is something wrong.

In a truck that will mostly be street driven and an occasional roll on in mexico.. that 7875 should do exactly what I want

 

$280 billet 7875 off ebay making 700whp on 93 and windshield washer fluid for years here. It's a rear mount at that!

 

This is one of those typical posts we see where someone wants to have their cake and eat it too. You can’t have 800hp and a 1000hp goals because the turbo spec’d well for an 800hp goal isn’t’ the same turbo you’d spec for a 1000hp goal. Then we throw in the WHP figure which really throws things off. As you can make 1200+ at the crank and only 1000 at the wheels. Then we toss in T4 preference. Which limits you again. Then you want a snappy responsive turbo setup with a mild base motor… that also makes eye ball sucking HP.

Unfortunately, we can’t have it all. As with anything “performance” it’s a give and take.. If you have a relatively low output base motor and need big boost to hit your goal. You need a big turbo, which won’t be super responsive. I’d also like to say that you don’t need or want a "super responsive" 800-1000whp car on the street as it won’t do anything… quick response is useless, if you can’t use it. And if you have to use several different traction control strategies to dumb the power down to make it useable… what is the benefit of lightening quick response?

With an automatic trans and a T-brake, the “spool” time is 90% in the converter and tune. For a street strip toy raced from a stop, you can spool dammed near anything with the right tune and converter. I spool twin .96 T4 78/75s with a small cam only 5.3, very easily. Hit my peak boost and target boost is within a second after I release the brake. What more does anyone need?

I’m not a fan of T4’s or small wheel turbos at all with an 800 or a 1000hp goal. Zero reason to limit yourself. I’d suggest the same T6 87/96 exh wheel with an 800 or 1000hp goal. S475 for the 800 and S480 for the 1000. The other confusing thing is… who’s turbos are we talking about? A tweaked out Forced Inductions S400 based turbo vs A VSR or even a cast genuine BORG will all perform differently.

If you want a responsive quick car for the street I’d run a box stock T6 1.32 S475 with the 87/96 wheel and be done. That turbo has made 900whp+ and is more responsive than the S480. If you are super worried about response, get the optional 1.10 T6 housing. If you want 1000whp, go with the S480 and live with the response. Again, once your up on the brake… who cares?

 

Half the people wanting 1000hp don't even realize what they've gotten themselves into. 7-800whp will get you in PLENTY of trouble if you don't know what you're doing. Not to mention the fuel system requirement differences, and the difference in turbo sizing that frcefed86 mentioned.

 

I guess I should preface, I do have another car...489 big block that is 600rwhp(dynoed) and does use some nitrous time to time, so I do know what 700-800 horse is like(it has a t56 magnum behind it so speed seems limitless LOL) My goal is just having that with a mild build rather than shaking the house like that big block does.

No transbrake in this truck. This will be strictly foot brake/street use, so I think the s475 or the 7875 is the only way to go in all honestly. They will make the 800rwhp I'm after(1000 is a pipe dream so it's not the ultimate goal like the 800rwhp is LOL)

My ideal thought?
A street vehicle I can drive anywhere that is reliable and makes 800rwhp, use as a truck(mostly hauling lumber and mulch to and from homedepot/lowes), take on road trips(such as hod rod power tour) or just cruise around without being excessively loud and decent on fuel until I want the power.

 

Completely different type of power band though. The turbo motors relatively low power NA… Esp if you want it tame and quiet as you suggest. Then they get into boost and power doubles (or more) in about 1-2 seconds. So it shocks the crap outa the tire. Which is why even a 600hp “snappy” turbo setup is brutal on the street. Figure you are over doubling the power in a very short time. Thats is hard on traction. It’s like spraying your 600hp big block with a 600 shot and expecting to stick the tire on the street.

In my experience, dyno queen BS numbers don’t mean much. My 800ish HP car (I go by weight and trap speed) has out trapped and out Et’d 1000+ dyno queens many many times. Figure at 3200lbs 800ish whp (which is closer to 900ish at the crank) is enough to run 8’s. Personally I think 8 second cars make really crappy street toys. They are just too damn quick and unstable. Too much can go wrong. A large truck will never be “Stabile” at that acceleration/speed. I had mine all dialed in pulling tons of timing and running boost by speed etc. By the time I hit 50ish I could ramp all the power in over about 3 seconds and it would hook on the street. assuming the street was perfect. But hit one little gravel patch or liquid of any sort and you’re screwed.

I don’t mean to be the old guy telling people they can’t race on the street. Just throwing out my personal experience. If you decide to go T4. I’d get the housing machined for the larger 87/96 wheel. You really limit yourself with the smaller exh wheel on the T4 S475. (its also more expensive)