Junkyard turbo build donor engine?
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Junkyard turbo build donor engine? Hi everyone,
I’m thinking about building a budget turbo motor for my 67 Biscayne. My goals are 600 FWHP, which I feel is pretty modest. I essentially want to build a reliable street engine that will drive around like stock with good manners. As far as a donor engine, what would give me my best value? Around here, the gen 3 4.8s/ 5.3s up to 2002 are the cheapest. I was reading that the 05+ gen 3 4.8/5.3s are a little more money but they have bigger connecting rods and floating pins. I would like to be able to reuse as much as possible, truck intake, stock exhaust manifolds. And my plan for the bottom end would be to open the engine and add ring gap to the stock piston rings. I’m not afraid to spend money, and I know turbo builds are never truly “cheap”. I’m just trying to make a solid plan and spend my money wisely. Thank you!
I’m thinking about building a budget turbo motor for my 67 Biscayne. My goals are 600 FWHP, which I feel is pretty modest. I essentially want to build a reliable street engine that will drive around like stock with good manners. As far as a donor engine, what would give me my best value? Around here, the gen 3 4.8s/ 5.3s up to 2002 are the cheapest. I was reading that the 05+ gen 3 4.8/5.3s are a little more money but they have bigger connecting rods and floating pins. I would like to be able to reuse as much as possible, truck intake, stock exhaust manifolds. And my plan for the bottom end would be to open the engine and add ring gap to the stock piston rings. I’m not afraid to spend money, and I know turbo builds are never truly “cheap”. I’m just trying to make a solid plan and spend my money wisely. Thank you!
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Easily done !! I started with pretty much the same goal . Lots of info out there on this type of build. First off , try to start with a non afm / dod/ vvt engine that will save you money to be spent elsewhere. The gen 3 stuff will, take the power you are planning- no problem. BUT everyone will tell that boost /power is addictive and they're right!! Will take some self restraint to stay at that level . Check out the sloppy mechanics don't bs me build if you haven't already. My 04 lq4 had 180k miles , I did not gap rings and it's now pushing 650whp ( according to wallace calcs) never on a dyno. Can probably thank the water/meth for that , did a replica build for a friend and his high mileage 6L had .024" top ring gap IIRC - left it at that and no issues. If you can find early truck or later van you can get the rails with the built in regulator- works fine at that level and higher , also decapped and flowed injectors work great , cheap and easy to tune . Ddnspider is doing a 4.8 truck right now with stock cam , might hit that power level . Otherwise small cam and springs may be neccessary
While you are researching, a few things to add:
- Aluminum block is ~105 lbs lighter
- My knowledgeable buddies point out that the LC9 is the best aluminum 5.3, I think there might be 1-2 variants of it. The gen IV L33 is also held in regard but not as much as the LC9.
- You could buy a DOD engine you will need to change lifters, valley cover. But probably if you do a fresh build you will use new lifters anyway?
- You can use factory exhaust manifolds, I had a buddy modify the ends and add v-bands.
- When you are researching alternators, water pumps, power steering, crank pulleys, there is different spacing, be careful if you start to mix and match. I am running truck spacing, which is the same as 5th gen spacing. I'm running a Summit SFI truck balancer, 5th gen water pump, and ICT Billet top passenger side adjustable alternator bracket and their idler pulley setup on the driver's side, no power steering.
- Best bang for the buck is a complete longblock with all the accessories. But if you buy a bare engine you can buy a better alternator (higher output), select a water pump that has inlet/outlet that fits your plan better.
Last edited by Pro Stock John; Mar 24, 2023 at 01:11 PM.
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Easily done !! I started with pretty much the same goal . Lots of info out there on this type of build. First off , try to start with a non afm / dod/ vvt engine that will save you money to be spent elsewhere. The gen 3 stuff will, take the power you are planning- no problem. BUT everyone will tell that boost /power is addictive and they're right!! Will take some self restraint to stay at that level . Check out the sloppy mechanics don't bs me build if you haven't already. My 04 lq4 had 180k miles , I did not gap rings and it's now pushing 650whp ( according to wallace calcs) never on a dyno. Can probably thank the water/meth for that , did a replica build for a friend and his high mileage 6L had .024" top ring gap IIRC - left it at that and no issues. If you can find early truck or later van you can get the rails with the built in regulator- works fine at that level and higher , also decapped and flowed injectors work great , cheap and easy to tune . Ddnspider is doing a 4.8 truck right now with stock cam , might hit that power level . Otherwise small cam and springs may be neccessary
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the drivetrain is solid. It was originally a 283/ 3 speed car with a 8.2 10 bolt. It now has a 350, Lakewood scatter shield, tremec tkx 5 speed, and a built 12 bolt rear. Tremec rates that particular 5 speed at 600 ft/lbs I believe
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While you are researching, a few things to add:
- Aluminum block is ~105 lbs lighter
- My knowledgeable buddies point out that the LC9 is the best aluminum 5.3, I think there might be 1-2 variants of it. The gen IV L33 is also held in regard but not as much as the LC9.
- You could buy a DOD engine you will need to change lifters, valley cover. But probably if you do a fresh build you will use new lifters anyway?
- You can use factory exhaust manifolds, I had a buddy modify the ends and add v-bands.
- When you are researching alternators, water pumps, power steering, crank pulleys, there is different spacing, be careful if you start to mix and match. I am running truck spacing, which is the same as 5th gen spacing. I'm running a Summit SFI truck balancer, 5th gen water pump, and ICT Billet top passenger side adjustable alternator bracket and their idler pulley setup on the driver's side, no power steering.
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From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
To add to John's post, the LH6 5.3 is also really good, and has one of the strongest LS blocks there is. You can find them in Trailblazers and Trailblazer clones. If you're going to a pull your own yard, be aware that the Trailblazers and clones are the hardest vehicles to pull an engine from due to the front diff being bolted to the pan and the passenger side axle going through the oil pan. Don't be afraid to buy a whole vehicle, either. I bought a 2006 Saab 9-7X with an LH6 in it for $500, pulled the drivetrain and sold the body for $300, sold the trans for $275, and still have a TBSS intake and AWD transfer case to sell. An engine for free, basically.
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To add to John's post, the LH6 5.3 is also really good, and has one of the strongest LS blocks there is. You can find them in Trailblazers and Trailblazer clones. If you're going to a pull your own yard, be aware that the Trailblazers and clones are the hardest vehicles to pull an engine from due to the front diff being bolted to the pan and the passenger side axle going through the oil pan. Don't be afraid to buy a whole vehicle, either. I bought a 2006 Saab 9-7X with an LH6 in it for $500, pulled the drivetrain and sold the body for $300, sold the trans for $275, and still have a TBSS intake and AWD transfer case to sell. An engine for free, basically.
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From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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So jealous, you don't even know. The '67-'69 Biscayne/Bel Air is one of my favorite cars ever. I've only ever owned one, a '68 that was a complete rust bucket that I bought for $200 when I was 18. Thing didn't even have functioning brakes, lol. Still drove it around backroads using the 3 on the tree to slow it down when needed.
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I really would love to have an alloy block 5.3, and I hadn’t heard of lc9 until now, that will give me something to look on car-part.com for. Would I have to use v-bands? I was thinking about getting the factory down pipes from the junkyard too, that way I can make my own custom crossover pipe with the factory exhaust flanges. And yes, I believe that a new set of lifters would be in order if I refreshed the rotating assembly.
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You obviously have some fab skills, I made this log type manifold from a DS truck manifold and some doner van exhaust tubing- works great . Die grinder and mig welder only. The one pic shows the drivers side manifold to frame ( 72 monte carlo) would never fit with the 3 bolt flange on it . Of course you can run them both forward , like I did with my truck but I did this for a friend partly just to see if I could and because it looks cleaner/ nicer
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You obviously have some fab skills, I made this log type manifold from a DS truck manifold and some doner van exhaust tubing- works great . Die grinder and mig welder only. The one pic shows the drivers side manifold to frame ( 72 monte carlo) would never fit with the 3 bolt flange on it . Of course you can run them both forward , like I did with my truck but I did this for a friend partly just to see if I could and because it looks cleaner/ nicer
If you fast forward to around the 12minute mark you can see my truck manifolds I welded to, there not pretty but have been working fine for 2 years now.
Along with the stock (stage 1 truck cam) 2001 LM7 that has been on 9-10 psi of boost the whole time, which would be making around 600 flywheel HP.
Along with the stock (stage 1 truck cam) 2001 LM7 that has been on 9-10 psi of boost the whole time, which would be making around 600 flywheel HP.