VS Racing turbo upgrade suggestions for 5.3
11-07-2023, 09:11 AM
#1
VS Racing turbo upgrade suggestions for 5.3 Hey guys, I currently have a .030 over 5.3 with forged pistons/rods and stock crank. It has a VS Racing Gen 1 cast .96ar turbo, 3" downpipe with a boost cutout and made 550whp at 13psi on E85. This is a 99% street car, its full weight, probably will be running the milder Nitto drag radials and its got a Lil Jon's stage 1 cam, cnc'd heads and currently has a ls6 manifold. I'll continue to run a stock style long runner in the future. The car has a 4l80e, 3.25 rear end gears and a 3000rpm 10" single disc lock up torque converter. I'd like more horsepower but not sure where to go. Here are my choices:
1) VS Racing Next Gen 7875 .96ar with current dp boost activated cutout to Magnaflow 3" exhaust
2) VS Racing Next Gen 7875 1.25ar with 4" side exit or 4" dp to boost cutout/Magnaflow 3" exhaust
3) https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-80mm-billet-compressor-87x82-turbine/
I would like good spool but not choking the motor. Aiming for 7k rpm and 800whp max. I would most likely keep it turned down more often than not. So my questions are:
1) Which turbo and ar would you go with?
2) Is billet worth it?
3) Guesses on where each turbo would start to pull hard?
Thanks!
1) VS Racing Next Gen 7875 .96ar with current dp boost activated cutout to Magnaflow 3" exhaust
2) VS Racing Next Gen 7875 1.25ar with 4" side exit or 4" dp to boost cutout/Magnaflow 3" exhaust
3) https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-80mm-billet-compressor-87x82-turbine/
I would like good spool but not choking the motor. Aiming for 7k rpm and 800whp max. I would most likely keep it turned down more often than not. So my questions are:
1) Which turbo and ar would you go with?
2) Is billet worth it?
3) Guesses on where each turbo would start to pull hard?
Thanks!
11-07-2023, 11:35 AM
#2
Simple answer is just turn up the boost , on e85 and forged bottom end should be able to safely go alot higher. May or may not hit 800whp though. You say full wieght, how heavy ? Is there an et goal? What tire size ? May improve performance with a bit more gear , depends on goals though. That cam is probably done a bit before 7k rpm
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blackdak318 (06-26-2024)
11-07-2023, 03:36 PM
#4
11-07-2023, 03:53 PM
#5
Simple answer is just turn up the boost , on e85 and forged bottom end should be able to safely go alot higher. May or may not hit 800whp though. You say full wieght, how heavy ? Is there an et goal? What tire size ? May improve performance with a bit more gear , depends on goals though. That cam is probably done a bit before 7k rpm
No real ET goal, I don't even have a rollbar. I suppose if I had to say, 9.99 just for bragging rights. I will probably compromise and put the milder Nitto DR's on it as wide as I can fit. So probably not enough tire. Everything on the car is meant to be streetable and the car is more of a nice day cruiser. I did get talked into solid motor mounts, I hope they don't drive me crazy...
I actually already have option #1, the shop said it was leaking oil so they just put the "crappier" turbo on to get it going. I will get my turbo checked out but in the meantime I thought about buying the bigger turbine housing and 4" DP. The shop talked like it was really getting choked up with the current turbo/exhaust when dynoing.
11-07-2023, 04:56 PM
#6
You need to check out posts by Rel3rd, he's running a firebird about that vintage with iron 6L, 4l80e and 9" at somewhere around 4200lbs RW . Think he got the cast 7875 into the 9s and the billet version, still .96ar into the lower 9s , there's a few variables and I don't remember all the details but I'm sure you can find it.
The following 2 users liked this post by GMCGreg:
forcd ind (11-09-2023), The BallSS (11-09-2023)
11-07-2023, 06:19 PM
#7
You need to check out posts by Rel3rd, he's running a firebird about that vintage with iron 6L, 4l80e and 9" at somewhere around 4200lbs RW . Think he got the cast 7875 into the 9s and the billet version, still .96ar into the lower 9s , there's a few variables and I don't remember all the details but I'm sure you can find it.
Will check it out. Thanks!
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11-09-2023, 03:10 PM
#9
On The Tree
To me sounds like you need to just turn the boost up. Try 18 or 20psi. Shouldn't run into real bad back pressure issues with an open DP on a 5.3L as long as the downpipe is short and doesn't have four 90* bends
11-10-2023, 02:38 PM
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
You need to check out posts by Rel3rd, he's running a firebird about that vintage with iron 6L, 4l80e and 9" at somewhere around 4200lbs RW . Think he got the cast 7875 into the 9s and the billet version, still .96ar into the lower 9s , there's a few variables and I don't remember all the details but I'm sure you can find it.
Tagged him @rel3rd
I've ran both Option 1 and Option 3 on my car, but started with 78/75 CAST wheel.
All were VSRacing versions FWIW.
My car is 2000 T/A, iron 6.0, 4L80E with 3000 stall triple disc, 3.70 geared 9" rear.
With me in it, car weighs 4160#. Run E85 from local convenience store, dual 450lph Walbros, 210# Bosch and all turbos asked about, I ran stock ECU, tuned with HPTuners, by me. Shifts made with factory ECU. IE; I launch in drive and never tough shifter.
My info below may not be exact, (but it'll be real close) as I am going by memory.
Feel free to search my name for exact details, ET's, etc.
~ T-4 Cast 78/75, .96a/r, 3" downpipe to open cutout by starter, 2-3# launch, 15# max
9.92@138, 3rd pass ever on combo
~ T-4 Billet NextGen 78/75, .96 a/r, 3" dp open cutout, 2-3# launch, 19# max
9.32@147 (5.9x@119 1/8th) using transbrake, 9.60's all day footbraking it.
~ T-4 Billet 80/82, 1.10 a/r, 4" into 3" downpipe w/open cutout, 2# launch (I never tried dialing in launch boost before track day)
9.35@149 with like a 1.6x sixty foot, lol.
On MY car, I had near zero lag with either 78/75, and using Turbosmart EBoost Street boost controller, could make 7-8# in less than 2 seconds.
Fast forward to early 2023, I swapped on a billet 85/88, and a Terminator X Max, and promptly threw 25# at it and lifted a head...still haven't fixed it.
It did go a 7.0 (1/8th) on the street with a 2# launch and 8# max though, so it still runs very well...even hurt.
Anyway...As said above, I'd also say turn it up, if fueling and tune is good enough to allow it. It'll make boost quicker all around.
BTW, I tried an OPEN, short 4" downpipe and car ran exactly the same as the 3" open cutout....
P.S.
My son (Bmore Fox) on YouTube has a Foxbody Mustang we converted to a 4.8 LS, Turbo 400, and an 80/82 VS turbo. He has zero issue making boost on that little engine. I can't share his numbers, as he does local no prep stuff, but he runs quite a bit better than my bests...
Skip to 11:00 for boost building on launch and a pretty sweet 1/8th mile run on the street
Hope this helps...
.
The following 3 users liked this post by rel3rd:
11-10-2023, 08:23 PM
#11
Sorry for the delay guys. Email and laptop were messed up until today.
I've ran both Option 1 and Option 3 on my car, but started with 78/75 CAST wheel.
All were VSRacing versions FWIW.
My car is 2000 T/A, iron 6.0, 4L80E with 3000 stall triple disc, 3.70 geared 9" rear.
With me in it, car weighs 4160#. Run E85 from local convenience store, dual 450lph Walbros, 210# Bosch and all turbos asked about, I ran stock ECU, tuned with HPTuners, by me. Shifts made with factory ECU. IE; I launch in drive and never tough shifter.
My info below may not be exact, (but it'll be real close) as I am going by memory.
Feel free to search my name for exact details, ET's, etc.
~ T-4 Cast 78/75, .96a/r, 3" downpipe to open cutout by starter, 2-3# launch, 15# max
9.92@138, 3rd pass ever on combo
~ T-4 Billet NextGen 78/75, .96 a/r, 3" dp open cutout, 2-3# launch, 19# max
9.32@147 (5.9x@119 1/8th) using transbrake, 9.60's all day footbraking it.
~ T-4 Billet 80/82, 1.10 a/r, 4" into 3" downpipe w/open cutout, 2# launch (I never tried dialing in launch boost before track day)
9.35@149 with like a 1.6x sixty foot, lol.
On MY car, I had near zero lag with either 78/75, and using Turbosmart EBoost Street boost controller, could make 7-8# in less than 2 seconds.
Fast forward to early 2023, I swapped on a billet 85/88, and a Terminator X Max, and promptly threw 25# at it and lifted a head...still haven't fixed it.
It did go a 7.0 (1/8th) on the street with a 2# launch and 8# max though, so it still runs very well...even hurt.
Anyway...As said above, I'd also say turn it up, if fueling and tune is good enough to allow it. It'll make boost quicker all around.
BTW, I tried an OPEN, short 4" downpipe and car ran exactly the same as the 3" open cutout....
P.S.
My son (Bmore Fox) on YouTube has a Foxbody Mustang we converted to a 4.8 LS, Turbo 400, and an 80/82 VS turbo. He has zero issue making boost on that little engine. I can't share his numbers, as he does local no prep stuff, but he runs quite a bit better than my bests...
Skip to 11:00 for boost building on launch and a pretty sweet 1/8th mile run on the street
https://youtu.be/KOKuWne67-8?si=sm3lh4Jn2WzButJB
Hope this helps...
.
I've ran both Option 1 and Option 3 on my car, but started with 78/75 CAST wheel.
All were VSRacing versions FWIW.
My car is 2000 T/A, iron 6.0, 4L80E with 3000 stall triple disc, 3.70 geared 9" rear.
With me in it, car weighs 4160#. Run E85 from local convenience store, dual 450lph Walbros, 210# Bosch and all turbos asked about, I ran stock ECU, tuned with HPTuners, by me. Shifts made with factory ECU. IE; I launch in drive and never tough shifter.
My info below may not be exact, (but it'll be real close) as I am going by memory.
Feel free to search my name for exact details, ET's, etc.
~ T-4 Cast 78/75, .96a/r, 3" downpipe to open cutout by starter, 2-3# launch, 15# max
9.92@138, 3rd pass ever on combo
~ T-4 Billet NextGen 78/75, .96 a/r, 3" dp open cutout, 2-3# launch, 19# max
9.32@147 (5.9x@119 1/8th) using transbrake, 9.60's all day footbraking it.
~ T-4 Billet 80/82, 1.10 a/r, 4" into 3" downpipe w/open cutout, 2# launch (I never tried dialing in launch boost before track day)
9.35@149 with like a 1.6x sixty foot, lol.
On MY car, I had near zero lag with either 78/75, and using Turbosmart EBoost Street boost controller, could make 7-8# in less than 2 seconds.
Fast forward to early 2023, I swapped on a billet 85/88, and a Terminator X Max, and promptly threw 25# at it and lifted a head...still haven't fixed it.
It did go a 7.0 (1/8th) on the street with a 2# launch and 8# max though, so it still runs very well...even hurt.
Anyway...As said above, I'd also say turn it up, if fueling and tune is good enough to allow it. It'll make boost quicker all around.
BTW, I tried an OPEN, short 4" downpipe and car ran exactly the same as the 3" open cutout....
P.S.
My son (Bmore Fox) on YouTube has a Foxbody Mustang we converted to a 4.8 LS, Turbo 400, and an 80/82 VS turbo. He has zero issue making boost on that little engine. I can't share his numbers, as he does local no prep stuff, but he runs quite a bit better than my bests...
Skip to 11:00 for boost building on launch and a pretty sweet 1/8th mile run on the street
https://youtu.be/KOKuWne67-8?si=sm3lh4Jn2WzButJB
Hope this helps...
.
Wow, thank you for the information. Is the 80/82 turbo physically much larger than the 7875s? I'd like to see them side by side. I should probably stick with the billet 7875 and the .96 ar since mine is a 5.3. Then just jack the boost after I add a 2nd fuel pump. Mine is no race car but its built with strong parts so why not get close to maxxing it out?
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rel3rd (11-11-2023)
11-11-2023, 11:56 AM
#12
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
Wow, thank you for the information. Is the 80/82 turbo physically much larger than the 7875s? I'd like to see them side by side. I should probably stick with the billet 7875 and the .96 ar since mine is a 5.3. Then just jack the boost after I add a 2nd fuel pump. Mine is no race car but its built with strong parts so why not get close to maxxing it out?
In all honesty, I plan to run an 8 in this tank, then throw a Billet NextGen 78/75 back on it. It was MUCH more fun on the street with the smaller turbo, and I already know what it can/will run with it, so Im good with that.
Even with my 6.0, there is definitely some lag with the 80, and more with the 85. The 78/75 felt like a nice, very strong running big block, all the time, and that's more fun on the street IMHO. When the bigger turbo lights off, it's no comparison to the smaller one, but I have more fun just playing around with the car than drag racing. I haven't even raced this year.
A 78/75 cranked up to 20ish will be a LOT of fun, without it being a race car.
Good Luck.
The following 2 users liked this post by rel3rd:
ScottStaypuff (11-11-2023), Woodylyf767 (11-11-2023)
11-11-2023, 09:44 PM
#14
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
No, I did not.
I have a 3 row aluminum radiator, that's a good bit thicker than a stocker, and a Flexalite 16" pusher fan..
I pulled it as far forward as I could, and used an LT1 top shroud. Trimmed about 1.5" off the front-most edge of it and redrilled the 2 mounting holes so that it is forced to hold the radiator much further forward than stock. Bolts still thread into the stock upper core support.
I can try to grab a pic or 2 ASAP to show you.
I have a 3 row aluminum radiator, that's a good bit thicker than a stocker, and a Flexalite 16" pusher fan..
I pulled it as far forward as I could, and used an LT1 top shroud. Trimmed about 1.5" off the front-most edge of it and redrilled the 2 mounting holes so that it is forced to hold the radiator much further forward than stock. Bolts still thread into the stock upper core support.
I can try to grab a pic or 2 ASAP to show you.
11-11-2023, 09:56 PM
#15
No, I did not.
I have a 3 row aluminum radiator, that's a good bit thicker than a stocker, and a Flexalite 16" pusher fan..
I pulled it as far forward as I could, and used an LT1 top shroud. Trimmed about 1.5" off the front-most edge of it and redrilled the 2 mounting holes so that it is forced to hold the radiator much further forward than stock. Bolts still thread into the stock upper core support.
I can try to grab a pic or 2 ASAP to show you.
I have a 3 row aluminum radiator, that's a good bit thicker than a stocker, and a Flexalite 16" pusher fan..
I pulled it as far forward as I could, and used an LT1 top shroud. Trimmed about 1.5" off the front-most edge of it and redrilled the 2 mounting holes so that it is forced to hold the radiator much further forward than stock. Bolts still thread into the stock upper core support.
I can try to grab a pic or 2 ASAP to show you.
My radiator is stood straight up. I am using a Huronspeed v3 ac kit. I hope its not too much of a pain to work on. Hah hah, famous last words...
11-11-2023, 10:00 PM
#16
The 80 is a little larger, externally. My turbo is between radiator and crank pulley, so it's pretty snug, much more so with the 85, lol.
In all honesty, I plan to run an 8 in this tank, then throw a Billet NextGen 78/75 back on it. It was MUCH more fun on the street with the smaller turbo, and I already know what it can/will run with it, so Im good with that.
Even with my 6.0, there is definitely some lag with the 80, and more with the 85. The 78/75 felt like a nice, very strong running big block, all the time, and that's more fun on the street IMHO. When the bigger turbo lights off, it's no comparison to the smaller one, but I have more fun just playing around with the car than drag racing. I haven't even raced this year.
A 78/75 cranked up to 20ish will be a LOT of fun, without it being a race car.
Good Luck.
In all honesty, I plan to run an 8 in this tank, then throw a Billet NextGen 78/75 back on it. It was MUCH more fun on the street with the smaller turbo, and I already know what it can/will run with it, so Im good with that.
Even with my 6.0, there is definitely some lag with the 80, and more with the 85. The 78/75 felt like a nice, very strong running big block, all the time, and that's more fun on the street IMHO. When the bigger turbo lights off, it's no comparison to the smaller one, but I have more fun just playing around with the car than drag racing. I haven't even raced this year.
A 78/75 cranked up to 20ish will be a LOT of fun, without it being a race car.
Good Luck.
I know its apples and oranges but can you share what cam and intake you are running and what rpm your car shifts at? Thanks
11-12-2023, 06:45 AM
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
Either squeeze the fan and radiator out and remove turbo from top, or drop the whole crossover (w/turbo attached) from the bottom.
My crossover is a modified On3, a/C delete fwiw.