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If you drive the car on the street any amount you need vacuum and boost line to the Race Bypass valve. You want vacuum to the valve to open the bypass and the relieve supercharger discharge pressure. The vacuum from the manifold pulls the valve open. Without it, when you are driving around, you end up pushing supercharger against a closed throttle plate and surging the compressor constantly - you'll hear it as a shutter. Eventually, this will wipe out the supercharger - it will start leaking oil.
Same thing with fuel pressure regulator. Hook it to a vacuum and boost line.
If you drive the car on the street any amount you need vacuum and boost line to the Race Bypass valve. You want vacuum to the valve to open the bypass and the relieve supercharger discharge pressure. The vacuum from the manifold pulls the valve open. Without it, when you are driving around, you end up pushing supercharger against a closed throttle plate and surging the compressor constantly - you'll hear it as a shutter. Eventually, this will wipe out the supercharger - it will start leaking oil.
Same thing with fuel pressure regulator. Hook it to a vacuum and boost line.
Thats where I’m stuck. I’m not sure where to pull those from. And I’m not sure why it’s stumping me lol
I’m thinking:
The procharger bullet valve to the brake booster
and
tap into the charge tube to the fuel pressure regulator
I would leave the brake booster alone. That would probably work fine, but I try and maintain brake sanctity. There is also a MAP port on most intakes (back) that you can use, but I also leave that one alone for MAP signal sanctity.
If your build thread represents what you are putting in, then use the old PCV connection (left circle) or the evap port (right circle) on the forward part of the intake as your reference port. If you use the PCV port, you need to run your valve cover PCV vents to a catch can or atmosphere (like you probably should be doing already). If you use the evap port, you have to have your evap disconnected (most don't).
I use the old PCV port routed to a vacuum log that supplies all the vacuum stuff for my car - race bypass, fuel regulator, hobbs switch, etc...
I would leave the brake booster alone. That would probably work fine, but I try and maintain brake sanctity. There is also a MAP port on most intakes (back) that you can use, but I also leave that one alone for MAP signal sanctity.
If your build thread represents what you are putting in, then use the old PCV connection (left circle) or the evap port (right circle) on the forward part of the intake as your reference port. If you use the PCV port, you need to run your valve cover PCV vents to a catch can or atmosphere (like you probably should be doing already). If you use the evap port, you have to have your evap disconnected (most don't).
I use the old PCV port routed to a vacuum log that supplies all the vacuum stuff for my car - race bypass, fuel regulator, hobbs switch, etc...
That is super helpful!
I like not tapping into brakes and map and the idea of running off the pcv side. I have both pcv and evap blocked in the intake but could easily put a barb on it to a vacuum block for the fuel pressure and race valve.
i also am welding two bungs onto my valve covers and running them to my catch cans. The pcv vent on my valve cover is capped.
05-12-2024, 08:42 AM
Procharger Race Valve and FPR questions 
