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Blowey to no blowey

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Old Jul 2, 2024 | 08:39 AM
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Default Blowey to no blowey

I have a Magnuson SC on my LS2 GTO. I am putting a replacement motor in it, which is not cheap. I am considering selling off the SC to help offset that cost.

Generally, how involved is returning it back to stock? Is it a matter of adding the intake manifold back? The car came with the SC -- so being a novice, I do not exactly know what a stock configuration looks like.
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Old Jul 2, 2024 | 09:10 AM
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having no actual experience in the matter either, the way id approach it is find the install manual for the kit that you have and read it from the first page to the last. then from the last page to the first to get an idea of the work involved. i know the centri kits end up with a lot more cutting and relocating of little things that it seems like.
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Old Jul 2, 2024 | 09:36 AM
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Leave the blower, get a junkyard 5.3 short block, swap heads and keep truckin.
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Old Jul 2, 2024 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by The ******
Leave the blower, get a junkyard 5.3 short block, swap heads and keep truckin.
looking back, wish I had done this.
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Old Jul 2, 2024 | 09:48 AM
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Did you sell the blower already?
I'd leave it on and just turn the boost down to a very safe level and have Pat G. tune it especially if its a DD.
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by The ******
Did you sell the blower already?
I'd leave it on and just turn the boost down to a very safe level and have Pat G. tune it especially if its a DD.
Not yet. But I think I'll do that, and just keep it. Don't want to screw around with acquiring all the stock parts, tunes, etc. It really is nice with that maggie SC.

Just need to figure out what caused the spun rod bearing in the first place. Ugh, wish I didn't know so little.
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown_05GTO
Not yet. But I think I'll do that, and just keep it. Don't want to screw around with acquiring all the stock parts, tunes, etc. It really is nice with that maggie SC.

Just need to figure out what caused the spun rod bearing in the first place. Ugh, wish I didn't know so little.
Spun rod bearing could have been from low oil or the factory pump cavitating at high rpm.
Install an aftermarket oil pump while you're there, that will solve the oil flow issue at high rpm.
Most LS guys run an extra quart or two in the pan for fbody stuff, not sure how that equates to the GTO platform but perhaps someone will chime in. @Kfxguy @BCNUL8R and a couple others play with GTO's.
Sometimes things just fail, did you buy a complete short block or are having one built?
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 02:52 PM
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I don't know a lot about the GTOs, but I definitely know, a F body pans, with any kind of power, tends to cavitate the oil pump. It is very well documented. I just had always used a aftermarket pan, so I didn't learn this until I started helping others go fast
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rpturbo
I don't know a lot about the GTOs, but I definitely know, a F body pans, with any kind of power, tends to cavitate the oil pump. It is very well documented. I just had always used a aftermarket pan, so I didn't learn this until I started helping others go fast
Interesting. I think the GTO's oil pan design is even worse than that of the Fbodies with its front sump location to allow the pan to clear the steering rack. That could explain why the GTO pans were discontinued. I'm wondering whether an upgraded oil pump would solve any oil starvation issues caused by the pan's design.
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Old Jul 8, 2024 | 05:16 PM
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The GTO stock pan has an oil baffle in it, but if you want more control, I believe it's Improved Racing that sells a race baffle. They also sell an oil pump tube brace that is nice. Before you put the new block in---be sure you have installed the barbell in the back of the block. If you forget, it will cause low low oil pressure. If you are on the stock oil pump, definitely get a Melling high pressure pump. Get one that is ported--it avoids a lot of the cavitation inside the pump.
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