I'm trying to figure out how to set up boost control, and the whole thing is confusing me. Almost everything I see is tailored towards cars with auto transmissions. The Terminator X software isn't very intuitive, either. I just want to be able to turn it on and make sure it functions correctly. Right now I only have a single 3 port MAC valve referenced off of the compressor housing, so the set up is pretty simple. I just need to know what the best strategy is for controlling boost, be it boost by gear, boost by RPM, boost by time, etc. Plus how to set the initial trigger to turn the boost control on. This car is 99.9% a street car, so I'd like the boost control to function from both a standstill and when I'm driving around in various gears. For example, driving along in third gear, if I punch it, I want the boost control to function. As of yet, I can't figure out what protocol to use in order to make that happen. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The best strategy for controlling boost is kind of up to you and how you are using the car. For example, a timer works well on a drag strip but boost by vehicle speed would work better from a roll.

Personally I usually set people up with a mix on a single rotary and just use some advanced tables for boost offset over time, static boost settings, and boost offset vs driveshaft/wheel speed.

 

For the street, I'd do boost by speed by tying into one of the front wheel speed sensors.
Sense you're more likely to spin the tires on the street, flat lining the boost when the tires start to lose grip sounds like a good solution.
That or a traction control system of some kind.
I'd be looking at suspension mods and making sure that you are using the suspension effectively before you start knee capping power.

 

I'm planning on doing traction control next year, but for right now I'd like to be able to turn the boost up a bit. It's hitting 12 lbs. max, and it's not quite a handful yet. I want to feel what it's like when it's really making some steam Guess I'll be doing the rotary dial set up, I'd been thinking of that previously.

 

So being setup off the compressor housing, you're probably seeing less than 12 lbs. in the intake of the engine.
Factor in the restrictions of the pipe and IC.
I'd move the reference line to the intake manifold, that way when it says 12 lbs., you know the engine is seeing 12 lbs. and not 9 or 10 lbs.

 

The 12 lbs. is just Holley's interpretation of 184kPa from the MAP sensor. Right now I'm just running off the wastegate spring.

 

I did boost by RPM and by gear on my last car. It worked well. If you can get a front wheel speed sensor set up, that would be ideal.

 

Mine is boost by rpm. I have my mac valve on a switch so I can turn it off and run just on gate giving me a high and a low boost mode

 

I no longer have ABS on my car, would I be able to use the signal from that and feed the Holley that signal?

 

You definitely need to get the EBC setup, the boost comes in way harder and faster down low.
Would recommend.

Not sure on the Holley but I know for the Cortex, a signal adapter is all that's needed using the factory wheel speed sensor, so I'd be surprised if Holley isn't the same.

 

I already have a Holley boost control fully plumbed and wired in I just need to determine how to configure it. Unfortunately, I only have a single solenoid setup that is referenced off of the compressor housing. I'll be looking into adding CO2 and another solenoid this winter. I'll also be looking into ways to convert my wheel speed signal. It would be nice to use both front and rear signals for the traction control set up, that way I don't have to buy a driveshaft speed sensor.

 

Yes, that's how i currently have it on my C6 corvette. I had to use a signal converter from SIRCH Labs to get it work. Just depends on what type of sensors yours are. I have the Terminator X Max so I was able to feed the rear speed sensor directly to the ECU through the transmission side of the ECU