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Okay, I understand now. As a general rule (in a perfect world) your dome pressure would add to whatever your spring pressure is, but it never seems to work that way. I have a 6 lb. spring, but even with 23 PSI of dome, I only hit about 18 PSI of boost. And I likely do have significant backpressure. So in @Tommy42088 's case, his dome just happens to equal his boost, which is what he meant by the 1:1 ratio.
yes that is exactly what im saying, thanks for clarifying. My tuner setup the pressure on the regulator and all of that. I just installed everything the way he told me to do it. I guess i finally had something work in my favor cause everyone knows I went through hell with my truck.
Right but he might be using say 30psi of compressed air since the Mac valve is regulating what the top of the wastegate (dome) sees if I'm understanding this correctly.
ill look at my regulator when I get home and see what it says.
yes that is exactly what im saying, thanks for clarifying. My tuner setup the pressure on the regulator and all of that. I just installed everything the way he told me to do it. I guess i finally had something work in my favor cause everyone knows I went through hell with my truck.
I'm really tempted to do this on mine now just for simplicity's sake.
why would I lie about that? I assure you whatever I set my dome pressure at in holley thats what my boost level is. My tuner helped me set everything up and its on the money. Keep in mine i dont have exhaust, I have a 4 inch fender exist.
You just don't see it too often. Especially using compressed air. You usually have to use more to get the desired result because it thins out a lot with any kind of heat. Where CO2 is really cold
You just don't see it too often. Especially using compressed air. You usually have to use more to get the desired result because it thins out a lot with any kind of heat. Where CO2 is really cold
with the bad luck ive had with my build im not mad about that actually working out in my favor
Yea I've seen your thread and the **** you went thru
yeh alot of bs, boost was initially all over the place when I had the old cx racing wastegate and original setup. Id see up to 5 psi difference on any given day, so im definitely not complaining with it being thag accurate.
Gents, question on fuel system.
The plan is to use a Chris1313 bucket with triple 450's, -08AN from the pumps to a filter, then a MRW Flex Fuel sensor setup, tee off with -08AN to each fuel rail, -08AN to the reg. and -08AN back to the tank.
From what I've read this setup ought to be plenty for 1,000+whp which I'll most likely never try to get over.
Question on filter micron count, currently using a 30-micron filter which is good for E85 but from what I'm reading a 10-micron is better suited for EFI applications, 30-micron is more for carbureted applications?
I've read that when using a 10-micron post filter you must use a 100-micron filter before the pumps or else the 10-micron will plug up faster; these are in tank pumps so a pump prefilter is not an option.
Am I good with the 30 or should I switch to a 10 micron?
I've been running the 30 for several years now without issue.
Gents, question on fuel system.
The plan is to use a Chris1313 bucket with triple 450's, -08AN from the pumps to a filter, then a MRW Flex Fuel sensor setup, tee off with -08AN to each fuel rail, -08AN to the reg. and -08AN back to the tank.
From what I've read this setup ought to be plenty for 1,000+whp which I'll most likely never try to get over.
Question on filter micron count, currently using a 30-micron filter which is good for E85 but from what I'm reading a 10-micron is better suited for EFI applications, 30-micron is more for carbureted applications?
I've read that when using a 10-micron post filter you must use a 100-micron filter before the pumps or else the 10-micron will plug up faster; these are in tank pumps so a pump prefilter is not an option.
Am I good with the 30 or should I switch to a 10 micron?
I've been running the 30 for several years now without issue.
I've been running a 10 micron filter after my pumps for years and it keeps my fuel system clean as a whistle. I have a stainless filter element and I'll clean it out at the beginning of the season and be done
I've been running a 10 micron filter after my pumps for years and it keeps my fuel system clean as a whistle. I have a stainless filter element and I'll clean it out at the beginning of the season and be done
I run a 10 micron evil energy filter just before the fuel rails, so if anything ever degrades in my hoses it won't gum up expensive fuel injectors. I have a 100 micron aeromotive filter just before the fuel pump. Is there no way to run a sock or hydramat or anything to filter pre-pump? I would definitely worry about prematurely clogging a 10 micron filter with no filtration ahead of it.
I'm running the 10 micron Racetronix filter as well. The elements are cheap, I just changed mine out and it was under $20. And I only have filter socks on my pumps, no pre-filter.
Dual 525 pumps feed to 10 micron filter, from filter to split, from split to back of rails, front of rails go to regulator, regulator return to flex fuel sensor, then sensor back to tank. Everything on the feed side is 8an, return is 6an.
Excellent, thank you gents, good to know I have at least two options that will work.
I think I'm going to do -10AN from the pumps to a Racetronix 10-micron filter (the big one) to a Y under the driver's seat -08AN to each rail, the flex fuel sensor in one side, and then -08an to the reg and -08AN back to the tank.
Probably a little overkill but I'm okay with that when it comes to fuel supply and I don't want to have to redo it in the future.
My Aeromotive FPR has the smaller ports, I don't think it'll be an issue maybe only if I'm trying get the base pressure below 45 psi which I don't think will be beneficial, but I'll run it for now and upgrade to the race unit with bigger ports later if needed. @gametech I'm still running the stock fuel tank, but the pumps do have socks on them, no idea what the micron rating is but I think it'll be okay. I'd like to have the filter closer to the rails but there is simply not enough space. I'll be sure to use PTFE hose throughout.
Quick progress update, with all the AC/Heater dash components removed I got the delete plate mocked up for mounting and installed.
Got the Haltech mounted and harness pulled through the firewall as well.
I tried to keep the harness up high and as far away from heat as I could.
Starting to feel good about this, next I'll wrap up the engine connections and then start wiring in the lights and hopefully by then the screen mount will have arrived so then I start mocking that up in the dash.
Morning gents, quick question on wiring.
I'm about ready to move into the cabin to start wiring in the factory harness into the screen.
In the attached diagram below, both the Rebel and IC-7 screen provide both a +5-volt supply, +12v supply and ground supply for multiple sensors.
What is the best way to tie multiple sensors to these power/grounds, soldering wires onto one main lead, terminal strip, multi pin connector with jumpers across the pins?
I'm also trying to plan for future add-ons without having to pull the dash back out so the idea being able to add more inputs/outputs easily in the future which on the Rebel will be easy but for the IC-7 will require some planning.
Any suggestions are welcome.
