This is my exact fear.
So, I found the rails, they're Aeromotive rails which is nice.
Fuel Rail Kit, Edelbrock LS1 Intake – Aeromotive
I'm not seeing any LS2 brackets on their website so I shot them an email.
Not sure what else I can do if they don't have brackets.

 

I really dislike those rails as I've seen those brackets bend and flex and pop out o-rings even at the correct installed height. I much prefer a fuel rail that has solid "blocks" for rail attachment. if you can't find the correct attachment for those rails I would switch them out entirely to something else or make some better solid brackets to hold the rails at the correct position.

 

I am on terminator x, i initially didnt know that but my tuner said we needed to add the resistor so thats what we came up with. I initially didnt add the pen and just put it inside the loom and when i crunk the truck my flex fuel sensor wasn't working and low and behold when I pulled off the loop it was no longer in tact so that was my fix. Its worked fine every since so I leave it alone.

 

I dont have a spacers or anything on my bosch 210. When i ordered my intake manifold it came with 2 sets of brackets and i just used the ones that fit the injectors.

 

I'm back to square one on this, I went back out and pulled it apart because it was bugging me that the height was right for LS1/6 at 2.5" then why do the bolts not line up.
The adapters are too large diameter wise to fully seat in the fuel rail opening for the injectors, so they in fact don't work.
I dremeled one down to test the theory and while I got better fitment, the aluminum got too thin and broke, at least now know.
@NicD I'm not seeing any options out there for fuel rails for the Vic Jr. with blocks instead of brackets so I might be stuck there.
The Edelbrock ones look better with a bracket the bolts through the rail but that's about it.
I've got emails out to Aeromotive, VS and Fuel Injector Connection for spacers and brackets, we'll see what comes back.

 

This is what i have on my truck, knock off single plane with edelbrock 90 and it works perfectly fine with the bosch 210. Notice the manifold has 2 sets of brackets, I used the shorter ones.
can you not modify your brackets to work? If it makes a 90 on the bottom like mind does then I dont see why you couldn't carefully cut it and bend a new 90 to fit and drill a new bottom hole in the bracket, its hard to see how your bracket is designed with only the picture of the top bolts.

 

My brackets are very similar; the metal is actually pretty thick at least but I can see Nic's concern.
Once the rails are bolted down, they're extremely rigid so really at this point I'm not making any changes.
This setup saw nearly 22 psi without a problem so I'm going to stick with it for now but keep my eyes open for other options along the way.
The real problem was the Amazon spacers, once I ground down the circumference, they seated far enough into the rail for the mounting holes to line up.
Problem was I removed too much material, and they broke on install, oh well.
Aeromotive doesn't make an LS2 height bracket for their rails, so I've come full circle and ordered the spacers from VS Racing lol.
I sent the rail dimensions to VS and they said theirs would work so they're on the way.

 

On a brighter note, the dash insert for the IC7 screen arrived yesterday and looks to be a very nice piece.
Dr. EFI kind of inspired me to go this route after seeing all the 3D printed items he's been using on his builds.
I got this piece from Jeg's made by Reversion Raceworks and while the shipping was a little inaccurate, I didn't have to wait too long at all to get it.
As I've mentioned before my son is deep into 3D printing, and he gave it two thumbs up for its quality and construction after rattling off a bunch of jargon that I didn't remotely understand about layering and it being all one piece lol.
Can't wait to get the screen mounted and start running wires.
Reversion Raceworks RR00334 Haltech IC7 Digital Dash Bezel, 1997-2002 GM F-Body - JEGS

 

That's gonna be nice!

 

man I would of took the brackets off and installed the injectors without them so you could measure exactly how long the brackets needed to be and then I would of put the brackets in a vise and put some heat on them and bent them to match my measurement and drilled new holes in the bottom, naturally cut off any excess.
especially since you said your son is deep into 3d printing, he could of 3d printed the brackets off the measurement and then you could of fabbed your to match the print.

 

A good idea but no vise and no heat, plus my kid's laptop is down for the 3D printer.
The injectors I took out had extenders so I'm not super concerned, as long as they don't look sketchy.
The rail brackets need to be .50" shorter, my only concern is that there is an angle in the bend which matches the angle of the injector holes in the intake which would be tough to replicate.

 

ah ok, im sure the spacers will work. Id just watch it close. Pop the hell out your hood the first couple of drives, not sure if you know but ive experienced a fire with my truck when it was on Nitrous years ago, it's nothing nice I can assure you. Man I had to replace so many things under the hood of my truck.

 

I got no hood so it'll be easy to spot lol.
I always carry a fire extinguisher too because sometimes stuff just fails.

 

it happens fast bro, with seconds everything under my hood was in flames. I was sitting in the truck and by the time i got out the flames were going to the top of my windshield. I do have a hood so it was going under the gaps up my windshield. Needless to say anything flammable under my hood is new.

 

That looks real good. The aluminum support piece is a nice touch.

 

I definitely always carry a fire extinguisher too now, ive created the habit of randomly popping my hood and looking over everything on my truck and looking under the bottom as well. Pretty much every time I take it out and thats been a few years back since that happened. When are you aiming for turning key?

 

That looks to be a pretty nice dash piece.

 

Hopefully within the next couple months. Now that I have the screen mount, I can start wiring the screen into the factory harness, the engine side is done except for the injectors. I should be getting the dome and FP sensors for Christmas along with the MRW FF Sensor mount and 4AWG cable kit for the Haltech. I also have to wire in the wheel speed sensor but that's not required for start up.

Then it's just deciding on a path for fuel supply which I'm still waffling on. I'm curious about a surge tank or wondering if I can add a bung to my factory plastic fuel tank. If I could reach down inside the tank to tighten it, could it work? My kid has little arms, I'm sure he could do it lol. If I added a bung, I could do a Magnafuel 4301 or 4303 pump along with the twin in tank 450's. I would think that should be plenty of fuel for my needs. Regarding a surge tank, I already have the pumps, I've got a couple 255's and three 450 pumps but if I'm understanding it correctly, I'd then need four pumps then instead of three, but I may wrong.

 

Shot of the screen installed.
Reversion really nailed it.




This is the area that will need opening up for the Haltech connector using the bracket as a template. I'm thinking I'll keep the hangers for the factory harness since I'll need them but everything else around them can go.

 

man ive never done it but ive seen guys use the factory pumps basically as a lift pump to supply the surge tank and then external pump to engine. Basically the excess fuel still goes to the surge tank and then overflows to the factory tank. I dont see why you couldnt do something like that.