Just make sure you keep the sensor power and grounds on the matching device that signal is going to, don't mix and match.
Personally I would use barrel connectors and crimps to split power and ground to the various devices and heat shrink over them when done. The good kind, not the **** you find at Autozone, etc. Quality barrels and real ratcheting crimps made specifically for them can be had online for not too bad of prices now a days. NO SOLDERING.

Edit - Stuff like this, pretty cheap and work well. Don't forget good heat shrink to go over them too.



They also have good Deutsch DTM "style" connectors for a pretty cheap price. They are not the brand name Deutsch, but they are REALLY close to the original and plug in nicely with original connectors so there is no real downside. Do yourself a favor and use Deutsch connectors on everything.

 

Forgive me if these are stupid questions, wiring is not my strong suit so I'm learning as I go.
I want to make damn sure I'm doing this right because if I'm doing all this work, I want it to not only look good but work properly for a long time.
So, the barrel connectors would be for branching off the power/ground supplies (Haltech was clever enough to pair the supply for each for both the input/outputs on both devices, they continue to impress) I had actually planned on soldering (oops) everything, but I could see how the barrel connectors would be much cleaner and easier.
Why no soldering? I was always told soldering was far better than crimping?
Then use Deutsch connectors at the component for items like the Mac valves and dome pressure sensor.
The Flex Fuel sensor has a specific connector which I already have so no worries there.
I think I'll just need to leave some length in the wiring that ties into the factory harness for the turn signals and whatnot so I can pull the screen out and easily access the plug on the back to add more inputs/outputs like a rotary switch for the traction control.
Also really quickly, transbrake wiring, I'm using the AX25+ for the TB which supplies voltage and currently I have power going to an arming switch, then to the TB button and then to solenoid.
The Haltech diagram has AX25+ going direct to the solenoid but I'm thinking that's just an example, it would still have to at least go to the TB button right because I'd imagine I could arm it through the IC-7 screen?

 

No worries...
Motorsport wiring is going to be all crimps, no soldering. Crimps are actually stronger, way more flexible, and resist vibration a million times better than solder.
You will not find any computer that has separate sensor power/grounds for each individual available I/O, they all use one sensor power/ground that you must branch off of. Some like MoTec have up to 3 sensor references for resistive sensors so you have to pick the correct one in the software as well, but that's not common.
Make your wiring easily "available" if you plan on adding more things later, that means leaving enough room to pull the dash out, etc so you can get to it. Also helps for troubleshooting later...
I would make the AX25+ go directly to the solenoid, use another power/ground for the button as another input in the software to activate it. Arming, I wouldn't have another switch for that, just set up the appropriate criteria like not above 10 mph, etc.

 

Fantastic, thank you Nic!

 

Do yourself a favor and buy some lengths of braided wire loom and some marine heat shrink tubing. You can make some really professional looking wiring with them. Do you have DTM tools yet? I bought a couple of cheap ones on Amazon and they work great.

 

Bought the braided loom to match the Haltech harness and have a bunch of shrink wrap already, it's not marine grade but I've used it before and it seems to have worked fine.
I'm still on the fence on the Deutsch connectors; I've got a bunch of weather pack connectors I've used in the past that seem to have worked well.
Is there any reason I shouldn't use those?
I just don't want to spend a bunch of money rebuying items if what I have will work is all.

 

Sure the old weather pack connectors will work, but they are generally all pull through terminals which means moving wires around afterwards sucks and you better build it right at the beginning. The Deutsch DTM connectors are WAY better, super easy to depin if you want to move a wire since they push through the back, super easy crimp tools that are literally impossible to screw up, very serviceable connectors. There is a reason that's all anybody uses now a days and companies have even starting making sensors direct with DTM connector ends. With the version that I posted previously, they are also relatively cheap and still good quality and you can buy them in all sorts of pin counts.

 

I used to dread doing wiring, after using DTM connectors I actually enjoy the process. I had to wire my aftermarket fans in by connecting them to the factory harness which uses metripack 630 connectors. Even having to do two connectors was a pain in the ***. Once I started using DTM connectors for my sensors and MAC valves, etc. I knew exactly why people raved about them. You won't regret using them.

 

I’m on board with Devin’s opinion on Weather Pack connectors… lol

Echoing what Nic said, they work, but are not the easiest to work with.

 

The items Nic posted i have bought all of those previously except the deutsch connectors i bought where the ones I sent you but relatively similar. I originally had butt connector, then changed to a terminal block, then changed again to deutsch connectors and honestly that was the best move. Its much cleaner and if i need to move a wire around is fairly simple. Plus I have them in the engine bay and they havent given me any issues. When I put the new motor in the truck the only wiring issue I had was my flex fuel sensor not reading and low and behold my 5v reference was disconnected due to a butt connector pulling apart. I guess it must have gotten hung up in the process or motor swapping. Dont get me wrong i still have a few on the truck but most have been switched out.

 

Okay okay, I'll buy some Deutsch connector kits lol.
I totally forgot about how they are pulled through from the backside as well and they are a b!tch to get right lol.

 

Morning gents, made a little progress on the car yesterday.
Let's start with the oil pressure sensor connection, the factory LS1 sensor cannot be used with the Haltech and my assumption is because it's a one wire sender that only works with a gauge. As such the factory LS1 sensor can be replaced with an LS3 style three-pin sensor which fortunately I had already installed in order to log oil pressure in HP Tuners. The factory LS1 oil pressure sender requires a special socket to remove which can be had on Amazon for about $10.00 but once removed the LS3 sensor screws right in and plugs into the Haltech harness. Easy peasy.




Next up was to get the dual Mac valves plumbed and mounted which was pretty straightforward. The stainless 1/8" NPT tee can be found on Amazon and makes install clean and simple. Be careful of the Chinese Mac valves, I accidently ordered one and the 1/8" NPT ports are wrong, buy genuine ones only.




Next up was the injectors, @NoGo is gonna torch me for this but I went ahead and got Bosch 210's at my tuner's recommendation. The Black Friday sale VS had was just too good to pass up on. So, the FIC 1000cc injectors I took out were LS1/6 height and unbeknownst to me the EV1 Bosch's are LS2 height, I had no idea there are multiple different height injectors, so I had to take a few shots at finding the adapters. I later found a guide that ICT Billet put together that covers the different heights and what adapters to use which I can share if anyone would like them. Now ICT Billet and VS sell adapters, but I wasn't paying nearly $100 for some stupid bits of aluminum with an O-ring but fortunately I found these on Amazon for $20.00 and they fit. *EDIT* The adapters listed below from Amazon do not work with Aeromotive Billet Fuel Rails.
The O-rings are a tight fit which is good, I haven't applied fuel pressure yet and there was still some adjustment to be made to the rail height. If you were to file the tops of the adapters, they would probably fit into aftermarket fuel rails a bit better, but the O-ring is fully seated in the rail, so I just went ahead and spaced the rails up a little bit.






Lastly was the tidying up of the engine side of the Haltech harness, the only connections left to be made are cylinder head grounds which I'll get the proper bolts for those this week. The harness itself is very well designed, and the only real challenge is finding a creative solution for the extra length which I would much rather have then have to add length. Every component was easily reached with room to route away from heat/moving parts. The length gives a lot of options like the O2 Sensor and crank sensor wires; they're very long to accommodate different O2 sensor locations and the crank sensor harness to route away from headers. I will probably at some point remove the extra to clean it up a bit but for now I'm just trying to get the car up and running. The Haltech harness does require the use of the factory coil sub-harness so if you're selling the factory harness like I did, make sure you separate the factory coil sub-harness or you'll have to buy new ones. The injector sub-harness is provided in the Haltech kit.
@NicD so I did a little test and tried to solder the connections for the Davies Graig fan controller to the factory harness to control the fans, did a pull test and with a pretty small amount of force and they came apart. I could see that the solder did not penetrate the wire at all. I then used the barrel connectors and shrink wrap, and the connection was way better so thanks again for the advice.

 

The only thing I have soldered on my truck is the 10k resistor I added for the flex fuel sensor. Sounds crazy but I actually took one of the cheap bic ink pens and pulled the guts out of it and put the resistor and wires inside of it and then put loom over it so the resistor was protected, and I also have bosch 210 injectors in my truck and I haven't had any problems with them. Sounds like your on the right track bro, hope to see it running soon. I tried to go to my local track the past 2 weeks but it rained out both times, ill have some numbers soon. I already have plans for upgrades next year, smh.

 

I have to warn you about spacing the rails up. I have adapters and when I cranked my rails down, they were sitting cockeyed in the rail. So I added a washer under the mounts and all was good, or so I thought. I ended up blowing out an O-ring on a full tilt 1/4 mile pass and I am lucky it didn't go up in flames. I removed the washers and the slight cockeyed tilt hurts nothing. I wouldn't space them up.

 

There was no way I could even get these small bolts started into the rail unfortunately the way it was, believe me I tried.
I added a couple small lock washers under each bolt and even then, it was tough getting a bolt in and as I tightened them, I could see the rails being pushed down.
The brackets are very rigid and there is no movement if I try to wiggle them so hopefully I won't have an issue.

 

Looks like the Haltech software can accommodate the need for a resistor for the FF Sensor which is nice so no soldering there.
My only concern about the injectors at this point is as LS1Formulation pointed out is the adapters causing a fuel leak.
The dash insert for the IC7 screen is supposed to arrive today so once that lands, I can start wiring into the factory harness and making some real progress.
I've got some 3-pin and 4-pin Deutsch connectors and the crimpers coming for Christmas as well.
I was really hoping that the Cortex, 2-Step and gauge pod setup would sell so I could order the Chris1313 triple bucket and redo the fuel system but I'm still waiting so we'll see.

 

Great progress, man. Thanks for keeping us updated.


… Bosch 210 user here…

 

The problem with just spacing it up is that it doesn't account for how much the rail has to move forward/backward to maintain the correct angle at it's new height. SOME rail kits have different brackets for the different length injectors that take this into account so it would be in your best interest to find out if you can just buy the correct brackets that retain the correct angle/height for your injectors and avoid the top spacers. I've seen plenty of those cause fires over the years.

 

No problem, this is why soldering can be such a problem. A good solder joint would have penetrated and made a solid connection and you shouldn't have been able to pull it apart, but I've seen way more bad solder jobs than good ones and even the good ones over time will break from vibration, movement, etc. A good barrel crimp is so much better in applications like this.

 

This is actually exactly what you should to if you have to solder anything together in an automotive environment, you should put the whole thing into a small box or something that is solid on all sides to protect the internals and just have the wires coming out with everything inside braced and not able to move around. We've had to do that before with computers like Term Xs that don't have internal pullups for various sensors and used some hollow hard plastic dowels to package nicely.