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That's exactly the same type of thing I did on my Z06 with the MoTeC C127. Mine came from Mako Motorsport and they have all sorts of those types of things for many different vehicles and displays. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtkQJ5wXgeI
That's clean!
I love how you tied into the dash buttons to scroll through the menu, very clever!
I think a 525 at full tilt is something like 29 amps. So it's a power hog for sure. You'll definitely need to have the wiring top notch even go overkill with it just to be certain
I work in the refinery so the wiring i have on my pumps is top notch, I have 10 gauge power wires but when you touch the wire itself its thick copper not the flexible stuff you can twist together and both my pumps have there own 40 amp relay so needless to say i haven't seen any signs of melting wires or anything of that sort. My pumps come on strong and stay at 58 psi.
look in my picture you can see how thick the wires are i used. Even my ground wires are thick and i ran 2 grounds, 1 from the battery and 1 to frame.
look at the back of my bulkhead fitting, that picture in not zoomed in, those wires are that thick.
Last edited by Tommy42088; Dec 19, 2025 at 04:20 PM.
Aww man I wish I knew about this before I installed an Autometer cluster in my 91 Z28. I would've much preferred to have a Holley 12.3" pro dash in the car
Looks like a slick install. Looks good. Well done.
I'm late the party on the fuel rail conversation, but if you change your mind, or others looking to avoid the fuel rail leak issue: Nuke performance sells fuel rails with an upper injector safety clip (like the stock rails) that works pretty well so you don't have to worry about fuel spraying everywhere if things don't bolt down properly.
I could, but I don't want the hassle. Racetronix sells this: https://www.racetronix.biz/p/dual-pu...umps/ti-tca956 and I think I can fab up a bracket to mount it where I have their twin 340 pumps. If I swap to a -8AN bulkhead to get rid of the 3/8" feed flow restriction going into my -8AN line, these should be all the pump I need, especially since I have a Boost-A-Pump already wired in.
I could, but I don't want the hassle. Racetronix sells this: https://www.racetronix.biz/p/dual-pu...umps/ti-tca956 and I think I can fab up a bracket to mount it where I have their twin 340 pumps. If I swap to a -8AN bulkhead to get rid of the 3/8" feed flow restriction going into my -8AN line, these should be all the pump I need, especially since I have a Boost-A-Pump already wired in.
You'll never be able to fit those in the metal tank. Your tank is almost identical to my tank and dual 340's just fit. I've tried going down that road years ago
I wondered about that. Seems like there's no easy solution that's not hugely expensive.
This is what I was looking into although it's not the cheapest solution it would let me keep what I have and have more pump than I could ever dream of and it's super easy to setup in the Holley system
That is not what the official product description says, which leads me to believe that the pump is probably NOT what any sane person would refer to as compatible with e85. No actual compatible products would ever mention draining the fuel after use.
That is not what the official product description says, which leads me to believe that the pump is probably NOT what any sane person would refer to as compatible with e85. No actual compatible products would ever mention draining the fuel after use.
It's just a ti automotive (Walbro) brushless pump which is in fact E85 compatible.
I wondered about that. Seems like there's no easy solution that's not hugely expensive.
With a metal tank I'd be looking at adding a -10AN bung and going external pump.
I've been looking at the same with my plastic tank but there doesn't seem to be any good info from anyone who's done it.
That is a consideration at this point. I'm going to try to do the -8AN bung on top of the sending unit first, and get my voltage stabilized a bit better. Even though I have a Boost-A-Pump on my second pump, I feel like all it's doing is increasing pressure against the 3/8" factory outlet, not adding any measurable amount of flow. Not only that, but I don't believe the Racetronix pumps have check valves internally, so if my voltage drops to the unboosted pump, the second pump could very well be reversing flow through the primary pump.
That is a consideration at this point. I'm going to try to do the -8AN bung on top of the sending unit first, and get my voltage stabilized a bit better. Even though I have a Boost-A-Pump on my second pump, I feel like all it's doing is increasing pressure against the 3/8" factory outlet, not adding any measurable amount of flow. Not only that, but I don't believe the Racetronix pumps have check valves internally, so if my voltage drops to the unboosted pump, the second pump could very well be reversing flow through the primary pump.
It looks like there's a spot on top of the hat that will accommodate a -08AN or -10AN fitting, its connecting the pumps to the fitting that I can't figure out unless you build like the Huron Speed unit which if you only need two pumps then just go that route.
There is very little room between the top of the hat and the pump outlets once its in the tank.
I want three pumps so Chris1313 has the only option I've been able to find.
I'm also thinking I'm going to use two DPO's so I can stage the 2nd and 3rd pumps individually, twin 450's is plenty for what the car makes on pump gas then bring the third in when the E content is high enough.
Little mini update, got a couple small things done while the temp is just above freezing lol.
Got the Motion Raceworks Flex Fuel Sensor mount which looks to be a very nice piece, gonna start looking for a suitable spot under the car.
I also found my USRT Pressure Transducer which will go in the pressure line for the meth kit so I can set up safeties for it so I'm happy about that.
Really though the marine grade heat shrink, Deutsch connectors and my label idea made me the happiest lol. @LS1Formulation great call, I had used electrical tape and it just didn't look good so I got the MGSW like you recommended and it's like the icing on the cake for my harnesses.
Big thanks to @NicD@LS1Formulation and @Tommy42088 for prodding me into buying the Deutsch connectors, can't believe how easy they are to assemble and they look great.
Lastly, I bought a label maker and some clear shrink wrap to label the harnesses which worked great. I'm going to go through and label as many harnesses as I can so more sleuthing will be needed to find out what powers what.
It's supposed to be in the low 50's this Friday and Saturday so I'm going to get out and make some more progress then.
I hope everyone has a safe and Happy New Year!
I've been over my wiring twice, I shortened some wires, changed some connectors. I still plan some day to redo the relay board with a different approach but first the bish has to run the number.
Where does a guy buy one of those connector kits?? I've been wanting to redo my input wiring and having them all on like a 12 pin connector would be sweet
