I tried to blow it up, and it just laughed at me and set a PB

8.5@171. Slowish 1.39 60ft, 5.6@130 in the 1/8th.

SBE 5.3, stock heads, with a Summit Stage 2 cam, Summit 270112R turbo (the real magic here!!) and PAC 1218s that I suspect I am floating as power is dropping above 30psi even though fuel consumption is going up, and I'm not even at 60% duty cycle on the wastegate. On Holley, built and tuned by me.

Timeslip and pics
https://www.instagram.com/lsjuanrx7/

Quick vid

Just a simple stick shift deal with a diaphragm clutch, no slipper, and no 2 step! Just my right foot and left foot doing a jig to slip out of the hole. The car went 8,8@167 with a stock T56, but I found a killer deal on a Magnum T56 that improved the 1/8th mile a bit. I know there is a lot of room for improvement leaving with actual boost, a project for next year.

Has anyone gone faster with a SBE + Manual trans deal? I have not seen it.

 

Not that I've come across.

 

Looks like an RC car in the video lol

 

Right, filmed with a potato! I had a GoPro in the car and forgot to turn it on.

 

@LS1Formulation you gotta talk to this guy!

 

Funny you say that, lol. I was at work today and saw this thread and was like, I gotta ask some questions. So, OP - How much does your car weigh? What make and model? Gear ratio? Trans a 2.66 1st gear or 2.97? What tires do you run?

 

JP's RX7 is the quickest manual SBE that I'm aware of.

 

Just curious what does SBE mine to you. All OEM parts nothing changed ring gap????

 

PAC1218's on a SS2, what rpm shifts or finish line rpm are you seeing? I have the 1219's that im going to shim a bit on the same cam.

More importantly ya gonna try again LOL

 

Nice work

 

I've been really happy with the BTR .660" drop in springs, and they're priced right too instead of shimming?

 

I've got BTR .660s on both of my cars, but shimmed to 1.78 on my Firebird. They work great. I tickle 8K on the regular with them.

 

Yeah I ended up buying the wrong springs technically. There's zero miles on them other than idle time and some T-brake tests. Dropping $600 on springs now I cant do but $40 for shim right up my ally need tires first .
I put the engine together quickly never thought it run so good right off the bat caught me by surprise.

 

About what?

A little under 3K lbs. Not heavy, but not light. It has an 8.8 with a 3.73 and a spool on 28s, so I'm going through the traps close to 7500. I really needs a 3.31, or 3.5x. First gear in trans, no clue, got it used on a wild deal on FB marketplace. Got the trans as part of a part out, sold the parts for MORE than I paid for everything...and voila....free Magnum! I didn't ask questions!

Thanks Me! The former 8.81et was argued due to a "8.79" run by Kong that no one could actually confirm (Even though an Ls9 is almost cheating...lol) but this really buries it IMO

The only thing not stock is the cam, China head studs, and springs. Stock rods/pistons/crank/heads/rockers/lifters...etc. Ring gap is whatever the first 250k miles wore into the $200 bottom end lol, I didn't even look. I am firmly in the "never let the magic out" camp!

Redline is currently 7650rpm. Its near there in 1st, and 2/3/4 I'm just past 7K. 7650 is not optimal and it lays over hard up top, but I need the RPM just to get through the traps with 3.73s. And Man...... I'm not sure about trying for lower. There is more there just in the 60ft, but it needs a spring to make any more power. I have parts to build a motor on the shelf, but, no motivation (or time) to build it at the moment. The plan was to blow it up to force my hand! LOL. Not sure what to do for spring.

TY Sir!

Springs is the obviously an easy fix...but again....how much harder can I actually push this??? I almost like that the set up is self limiting right now.

 

Basically, I'm on a quest to run 9's with my Firebird, and you seem to have some stuff figured out. Just wanted to see how yours was set up. This is my first turbo LS car, and I've ran a best of 11.04@132.74. This is with me tuning ( never tuned before, running Terminator X ), and on 16-18 lbs. of boost. There's a lot more in my combo, but I haven't unlocked the potential yet. I gotta swap gears, as I have 4.30s right now, but I have some 3.54s on the shelf. My trans is the weak link, as it's a Stage 4 T-56, so I'm installing a Hitmaster clutch tamer over the winter to reduce the chance for driveline shock to break something. I know I need a Magnum-F, it's just not in the cards right now. My turbo is also a limiting factor, as it's a VS Racing 78/75 Gen 2.5 billet wheel turbo with a 1.25A/R. It should be fully capable of getting my 5.3 into the 9's, however. Mine is a fully built rod/piston combo with 10.5:1 compression, AFR enforcer heads, and a FAST intake. You have a big advantage over me in the weight department, as my car weighs around 3800 lbs. with me in it. I'm not gutting it, though. I'll remove a few things here and there, but I want it to look stock inside. I also am handicapping myself because I want to run the number on 17" drag radials.

 

JP are you doing some sort of boost by gear management?

 

Nice! Honestly, the only real limiting factor in all of this here, is your tire choice. The 17inch radial will just break **** on a manual car. IMO, borrow your buddies slicks, shut the gate, SLIP THE CLUTCH, and go run your 9. No one at the car show is going o ask what tires you used when you show them your timeslip. Don't worry about the hitmaster for now, that takes as much tuning as anything else. Just slip it more then you think you need to, and launch with more RPM than you think you need, with a stiff wall slick! If you are truly dead set on doing this with a 17inch radial, you will simply need more power so you can back half hard after your crappy 1/8th mile lol.

Yes, that has been a BIG help! I set up a boost by speed table. I am actually making less boost/power in the front half, and going faster that I was before!

 

Already ordered the Hitmaster. I don't mind tuning stuff, that's half the fun of going to the track for me. I figure I'll use the Hitmaster to slip the clutch consistently and also add some slip on gear changes so I can full throttle upshift. Do you do that? Or do you let off the gas between shifts? I know the car will be quicker on slicks, but that's just not how I roll. I want to run the number on what I drove to the track on. It'll definitely be difficult, that's for sure. I looked up the turbo you have, and it's significantly bigger than what I have. So that's a factor as well, I don't even think I could fit that turbo in my car without reconfiguring my radiator mounting. I'm only about a 1/2" away (turbo blanket included) right now. Do you drive this car on the street? If so, is it really laggy down low with the turbo being that large? Oh, one more question - When you datalog runs, do you see a spike in boost on shifts? I am running boost by speed as well and I always get a spike on shifts before the boost settles. I'm running CO2 for boost control.

 

 

I hear you. You got goals, go get it! One of the best things with this turbo is that it is T4, same turbine housing (physical size) as the turbo you have, so it will effectively bolt on. I bolted this on in place of a 78/75- downpipe was the same, compressor housing was just slightly larger. Spool on the street is incredible for the power capability-literally just as fast as the 78/75! I drive mine on the street more than anything.

Lift every shift as I don't want to replace my transmission. No spike in boost. No C02, just using a 3 port to control the top (via Termi), and MBC to control the bottom of the gate. A bit unorthodox, but I have done it this to cheaply get a LOT of resolution on my set ups for years. I can control 10-40+Psi like this (15-60+ with my import builds) and can change boost in the staging lanes in a pinch or if the laptop is dead.

I don't have any Mexico vids uploaded (for obvious reasons) but here was a test rip on the new trans to give you an idea of spool. I was never more than half throttle in this video.