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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 06:34 PM
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I think deatschwerks has flow matched sets. Just like fic and most other companies.

Alot of people have good luck with snakeeater, I got a set of their 1500s and it never did idle right and had some other minor issues. Sent them back and he replaced a few of them but it was still the same. Got some Bosch 210s and they've been perfect. Im running e85 though.

Do you have e85 around you? It is a much better fuel for boost right out of the pump
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Lsxford
I think deatschwerks has flow matched sets. Just like fic and most other companies.

Alot of people have good luck with snakeeater, I got a set of their 1500s and it never did idle right and had some other minor issues. Sent them back and he replaced a few of them but it was still the same. Got some Bosch 210s and they've been perfect. Im running e85 though.

Do you have e85 around you? It is a much better fuel for boost right out of the pump

Ive heard of the snakeeater's and have heard to stay away from them. Ive always read stick with F.I.C or deatschwerks. I tried a Canadian company ( Canadian performance injection).

Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad7778
Ive heard of the snakeeater's and have heard to stay away from them. Ive always read stick with F.I.C or deatschwerks. I tried a Canadian company ( Canadian performance injection).

Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
It's about an hour and half from me, and it's totally worth it to me. I fill up a 55 gallon drum. Flex fuel sensor so I can use 93, e85, or in between. I can understand 3 hours is a bit much
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 08:56 PM
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Brad needs to get his injectors flowed, and eventually do some logging with the tuner to see what's going on.

Brad is the combo intercooled?
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Old Feb 17, 2026 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad7778
Ive heard of the snakeeater's and have heard to stay away from them. Ive always read stick with F.I.C or deatschwerks. I tried a Canadian company ( Canadian performance injection).

Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
don’t waste your time with the snake eaters. They work under very narrow parameters. They’re an absolute nightmare if everything isn’t perfect. If your budget just put Bosch 210’s in if (Massive overkill) or stick with FIC/Deatschwerks and get something in the 1000cc range. It’s not apples to apples at all but I had a truck with and another one with a 402” stroker that were running out of duty cycle at low 700’s on Deka 80’s.
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 08:23 AM
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I've had great luck with decapped injectors for pump gas combos. The coyote injectors work amazing
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Old Feb 18, 2026 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Lsxford
It's about an hour and half from me, and it's totally worth it to me. I fill up a 55 gallon drum. Flex fuel sensor so I can use 93, e85, or in between. I can understand 3 hours is a bit much
Shot you a PM regarding your E85 fuel storage, didn't want to clog up the OP's post.
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Old Feb 19, 2026 | 09:54 PM
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I’ll add a few things.

If the ecu and engine came from the same truck then the coil dwell table should be correct. GM seemed to swizzle coils around with no rhyme or reason.

10.3:1 is way rich. Maybe getting close to the limit of your wideband. As others have mentioned 11-11.5 works well.

Best to run maybe 10 degrees of timing at 15lbs.

Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.

Ron
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.

Ron
I second this, GM may have blocked them later on but they also were still NA.
I've tried to find the factory four-corner steam vents recently for a friend of mine and they're hard to find, eBay has them for $160 but at that point you might as well go aftermarket.
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 10:50 AM
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Hard to tell from those pics but to me it's looking like it leaned out and torched that piston and possibly others . First thing that typically goes from too much timing is the ring lands . Gotta get it apart . Thinking the injectors are poorly matched or it's leaning out up top due to lack of fuel caused by pump , filter , regulator or voltage. You could have those injectors flowed or go ahead and put that money towards new ones . Once you're back up and running you'll have to be very careful about making sure you don't lean it out again, maybe upgrade pump wiring and maybe pump before testing? On the steam lines , I opted to just stick with the front lines and it's worked fine up to 17lbs . Engine angle makes a difference as long as it's up in front a bit any gases ( steam or air ) will make there way to the front be blead out , coolant temp , pressure and boiling point of coolant will all effect the amount of steam produced. Has anyone tried mounting a stock front steam line on the rear and the just plumb them together? Would be dirt cheap
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad7778
Good morning everyone,

This is my post on here, I have been reading this forum for a while to help me with my project. I have now come to post because I am in need of some direction.

I have a 4.8L from a truck that I had built last spring(2025) after I had damaged the #7 piston in a the previous engine. Last month the #7 piston burnt up again, I had thought everything was up to par.

So now Ive been told by another tuner it possibly could of been my ignition coils(d585's) auto firing or the #7 cylinder was leaned out.

I have gapped the rings to .028" top and .030" bottom, a walbro 450lph fuel pump, 700cc Injectors, boost referenced fuel regulator, base fuel pressure 60psi, br7 spark plugs gapped at .020", btr .660" lift valve springs, btr stage 2 turbo cam( intake lift .607 and exhaust lift .618), 7875 turbo, wastegate set at 15psi, melling 10295 oil pump( oil pressure at idle is around 45 hot).

Peak spark advance is 12 degrees on the high octane table and 9 degrees on the low octane table.

I hope I didnt over do it, Any help would be appreciated because i dont want this to happen to a 3rd engine engine I get it rebuilt.
br7 spark plugs gapped at .020",
This might be your problem. I ran 32lbs of boost with the same plugs but im gapped at .026 17degrees of timing for yrs. With meth and 93
My ring gap was much bigger then yours. And i had my back coolant ports blocked off so that's not the problem. And irun iron block. dont know if that matters.
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 02:23 PM
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@Brad7778 said 15psi, pretty big ring gaps, never said what he's doing for an oil catch can setup, and 12 timing high / 9 timing low, and 10.x:1 AF, and never indicated if he is intercooled.

So if he's not intercooled this is worth keeping in mind.

Oil recirculating is not a good thing either, can lead to detonation.
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 04:59 PM
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Good points John , didn't even consider that it might not be intercooled and engine oil getting in can certainly cause problems. I also run .025 " plug gap but I don't think. 020 will cause any , could be wrong about that damage
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 08:48 PM
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I didnt see the pictures before. So on the first engine it was the 2nd ringland that was blown out? Looks like the top land is mostly fine
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 10:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I’ll add a few things.

If the ecu and engine came from the same truck then the coil dwell table should be correct. GM seemed to swizzle coils around with no rhyme or reason.

10.3:1 is way rich. Maybe getting close to the limit of your wideband. As others have mentioned 11-11.5 works well.

Best to run maybe 10 degrees of timing at 15lbs.

Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.

Ron
As far as I know everything should be original ecu and engine, I bought the truck years ago off an older gentleman.

Ive come to realize reading through this thread that I had the AFR to rich and will remember from now on with 93 that my afr should be around 11 to 11.5.

I am getting a shop to dyno/street tune it this go around, so hopefully they can get it all on the right track.

I dont have the back steam ports connected but I think i will get an aftermarket kit to connect them.

Originally Posted by GMCGreg
Hard to tell from those pics but to me it's looking like it leaned out and torched that piston and possibly others . First thing that typically goes from too much timing is the ring lands . Gotta get it apart . Thinking the injectors are poorly matched or it's leaning out up top due to lack of fuel caused by pump , filter , regulator or voltage. You could have those injectors flowed or go ahead and put that money towards new ones . Once you're back up and running you'll have to be very careful about making sure you don't lean it out again, maybe upgrade pump wiring and maybe pump before testing? On the steam lines , I opted to just stick with the front lines and it's worked fine up to 17lbs . Engine angle makes a difference as long as it's up in front a bit any gases ( steam or air ) will make there way to the front be blead out , coolant temp , pressure and boiling point of coolant will all effect the amount of steam produced. Has anyone tried mounting a stock front steam line on the rear and the just plumb them together? Would be dirt cheap
Im hoping to get the engine pulled out of the truck and taken apart once the weather gets better. My garage is not insulated or heated, wish it was because its -25 Celsius here.

When i get into it i will be posting about it all, and hopefully come to a conclusion of what happened.

I have started to lean towards the injectors causing it to lean out. I do have the racetronix hotwire kit ran to the pump. I seem to forget to add those to the parts list.

The engine is mounted at the factory angle, but I think I will add an aftermarket steamport kit.



Originally Posted by helga203
br7 spark plugs gapped at .020",
This might be your problem. I ran 32lbs of boost with the same plugs but im gapped at .026 17degrees of timing for yrs. With meth and 93
My ring gap was much bigger then yours. And i had my back coolant ports blocked off so that's not the problem. And irun iron block. dont know if that matters.
Im curious what coils you had, maybe mine were getting weak because I was definitely getting spark blowout, so I worked my way down from .026" to the .020". What ring gaps were you using?
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
@Brad7778 said 15psi, pretty big ring gaps, never said what he's doing for an oil catch can setup, and 12 timing high / 9 timing low, and 10.x:1 AF, and never indicated if he is intercooled.

So if he's not intercooled this is worth keeping in mind.

Oil recirculating is not a good thing either, can lead to detonation.
I forgot to mention those couple things about my build.

I do have an intercooler on it, not a very big one at the moment. I do have a cheap catch can, routed from driver side valve cover into catch can then from catch can to intake(pre turbo). Passenger side valve cover has a breather. There was never much oil in it, lots of condensation with a few oil spots floating on the water. I might have a picture of it i can post.

There is no oil residue in any part of the intake system.

Originally Posted by Lsxford
I didnt see the pictures before. So on the first engine it was the 2nd ringland that was blown out? Looks like the top land is mostly fine
That is correct, the ringlands looked fractured and not melted. The top of the piston and ringland still look brand new. That piston maybe had a 2000 km on it. I still have it on the shelf of shame, Im going to need a bigger shelf for what I assume this next tear down is going to reveal.
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Old Feb 22, 2026 | 05:28 PM
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Think you said you're in Canada? So am I. Where abouts are you? I have a gen4 4.8 here that a buddy gave me ( supposed to be good ) I was only going to keep the 799 heads of it as I already have a couple gen 3 4.8s . I'd be happy to donate the rods /pistons if you want them , or the whole short block ?
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Old Feb 22, 2026 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad7778
That is correct, the ringlands looked fractured and not melted. The top of the piston and ringland still look brand new. That piston maybe had a 2000 km on it. I still have it on the shelf of shame, Im going to need a bigger shelf for what I assume this next tear down is going to reveal.
I seem to remember that happening to a guy a few years back and some of the smarter guys said too rich of an afr and it will get fuel built up between the rings and when it ignites it will break the piston right there.

I also barely recall talks of the 2nd ring being tighter than the 1st ring doing a similar thing. You also need to check the gap on the oil rings, they are normally fine but I have seen new sets that were too tight. I could be way out in left field idk. For that low of boost you shouldnt have been blowing the spark out with any of the stock coils. But too much fuel can put the spark out too
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCGreg
Think you said you're in Canada? So am I. Where abouts are you? I have a gen4 4.8 here that a buddy gave me ( supposed to be good ) I was only going to keep the 799 heads of it as I already have a couple gen 3 4.8s . I'd be happy to donate the rods /pistons if you want them , or the whole short block ?
I am located in Manitoba, if you are close id take you up on that offer.

Originally Posted by Lsxford
I seem to remember that happening to a guy a few years back and some of the smarter guys said too rich of an afr and it will get fuel built up between the rings and when it ignites it will break the piston right there.

I also barely recall talks of the 2nd ring being tighter than the 1st ring doing a similar thing. You also need to check the gap on the oil rings, they are normally fine but I have seen new sets that were too tight. I could be way out in left field idk. For that low of boost you shouldnt have been blowing the spark out with any of the stock coils. But too much fuel can put the spark out too
Ive read that same thing before where the mixture ignites between the rings causing the 2nd ringland to break. Im going to go everything on the new build with alot of detail. Get a better tune and injectors to help prevent any future issues.

Ive never felt or heard spark blow out, so I did my research and watched videos of it and that is the conclusion I came to. It went away when I closed the gap on the spark plugs, could having weak coils cause the spark plugs to not fire properly?
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Brad7778
As far as I know everything should be original ecu and engine, I bought the truck years ago off an older gentleman.

Ive come to realize reading through this thread that I had the AFR to rich and will remember from now on with 93 that my afr should be around 11 to 11.5.

I am getting a shop to dyno/street tune it this go around, so hopefully they can get it all on the right track.

I dont have the back steam ports connected but I think i will get an aftermarket kit to connect them.



Im hoping to get the engine pulled out of the truck and taken apart once the weather gets better. My garage is not insulated or heated, wish it was because its -25 Celsius here.

When i get into it i will be posting about it all, and hopefully come to a conclusion of what happened.

I have started to lean towards the injectors causing it to lean out. I do have the racetronix hotwire kit ran to the pump. I seem to forget to add those to the parts list.

The engine is mounted at the factory angle, but I think I will add an aftermarket steamport kit.





Im curious what coils you had, maybe mine were getting weak because I was definitely getting spark blowout, so I worked my way down from .026" to the .020". What ring gaps were you using?
Stock coils 1999 c5 i just adjust the dwell paramture.
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