Engine damage diagnosing
I think deatschwerks has flow matched sets. Just like fic and most other companies.
Alot of people have good luck with snakeeater, I got a set of their 1500s and it never did idle right and had some other minor issues. Sent them back and he replaced a few of them but it was still the same. Got some Bosch 210s and they've been perfect. Im running e85 though.
Do you have e85 around you? It is a much better fuel for boost right out of the pump
Alot of people have good luck with snakeeater, I got a set of their 1500s and it never did idle right and had some other minor issues. Sent them back and he replaced a few of them but it was still the same. Got some Bosch 210s and they've been perfect. Im running e85 though.
Do you have e85 around you? It is a much better fuel for boost right out of the pump
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
I think deatschwerks has flow matched sets. Just like fic and most other companies.
Alot of people have good luck with snakeeater, I got a set of their 1500s and it never did idle right and had some other minor issues. Sent them back and he replaced a few of them but it was still the same. Got some Bosch 210s and they've been perfect. Im running e85 though.
Do you have e85 around you? It is a much better fuel for boost right out of the pump
Alot of people have good luck with snakeeater, I got a set of their 1500s and it never did idle right and had some other minor issues. Sent them back and he replaced a few of them but it was still the same. Got some Bosch 210s and they've been perfect. Im running e85 though.
Do you have e85 around you? It is a much better fuel for boost right out of the pump
Ive heard of the snakeeater's and have heard to stay away from them. Ive always read stick with F.I.C or deatschwerks. I tried a Canadian company ( Canadian performance injection).
Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
Ive heard of the snakeeater's and have heard to stay away from them. Ive always read stick with F.I.C or deatschwerks. I tried a Canadian company ( Canadian performance injection).
Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 54
Ive heard of the snakeeater's and have heard to stay away from them. Ive always read stick with F.I.C or deatschwerks. I tried a Canadian company ( Canadian performance injection).
Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
Sadly I don't have any access to e85 around me, maybe 3 hours away, so thats not reasonable for me. If it ever comes to the pumps this way I will convert over.
Shot you a PM regarding your E85 fuel storage, didn't want to clog up the OP's post.
I’ll add a few things.
If the ecu and engine came from the same truck then the coil dwell table should be correct. GM seemed to swizzle coils around with no rhyme or reason.
10.3:1 is way rich. Maybe getting close to the limit of your wideband. As others have mentioned 11-11.5 works well.
Best to run maybe 10 degrees of timing at 15lbs.
Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.
Ron
If the ecu and engine came from the same truck then the coil dwell table should be correct. GM seemed to swizzle coils around with no rhyme or reason.
10.3:1 is way rich. Maybe getting close to the limit of your wideband. As others have mentioned 11-11.5 works well.
Best to run maybe 10 degrees of timing at 15lbs.
Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.
Ron
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Verdad Gallardo I've tried to find the factory four-corner steam vents recently for a friend of mine and they're hard to find, eBay has them for $160 but at that point you might as well go aftermarket.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 730
Likes: 208
Hard to tell from those pics but to me it's looking like it leaned out and torched that piston and possibly others . First thing that typically goes from too much timing is the ring lands . Gotta get it apart . Thinking the injectors are poorly matched or it's leaning out up top due to lack of fuel caused by pump , filter , regulator or voltage. You could have those injectors flowed or go ahead and put that money towards new ones . Once you're back up and running you'll have to be very careful about making sure you don't lean it out again, maybe upgrade pump wiring and maybe pump before testing? On the steam lines , I opted to just stick with the front lines and it's worked fine up to 17lbs . Engine angle makes a difference as long as it's up in front a bit any gases ( steam or air ) will make there way to the front be blead out , coolant temp , pressure and boiling point of coolant will all effect the amount of steam produced. Has anyone tried mounting a stock front steam line on the rear and the just plumb them together? Would be dirt cheap
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 200
Likes: 5
From: chicago
Good morning everyone,
This is my post on here, I have been reading this forum for a while to help me with my project. I have now come to post because I am in need of some direction.
I have a 4.8L from a truck that I had built last spring(2025) after I had damaged the #7 piston in a the previous engine. Last month the #7 piston burnt up again, I had thought everything was up to par.
So now Ive been told by another tuner it possibly could of been my ignition coils(d585's) auto firing or the #7 cylinder was leaned out.
I have gapped the rings to .028" top and .030" bottom, a walbro 450lph fuel pump, 700cc Injectors, boost referenced fuel regulator, base fuel pressure 60psi, br7 spark plugs gapped at .020", btr .660" lift valve springs, btr stage 2 turbo cam( intake lift .607 and exhaust lift .618), 7875 turbo, wastegate set at 15psi, melling 10295 oil pump( oil pressure at idle is around 45 hot).
Peak spark advance is 12 degrees on the high octane table and 9 degrees on the low octane table.
I hope I didnt over do it, Any help would be appreciated because i dont want this to happen to a 3rd engine engine I get it rebuilt.
This is my post on here, I have been reading this forum for a while to help me with my project. I have now come to post because I am in need of some direction.
I have a 4.8L from a truck that I had built last spring(2025) after I had damaged the #7 piston in a the previous engine. Last month the #7 piston burnt up again, I had thought everything was up to par.
So now Ive been told by another tuner it possibly could of been my ignition coils(d585's) auto firing or the #7 cylinder was leaned out.
I have gapped the rings to .028" top and .030" bottom, a walbro 450lph fuel pump, 700cc Injectors, boost referenced fuel regulator, base fuel pressure 60psi, br7 spark plugs gapped at .020", btr .660" lift valve springs, btr stage 2 turbo cam( intake lift .607 and exhaust lift .618), 7875 turbo, wastegate set at 15psi, melling 10295 oil pump( oil pressure at idle is around 45 hot).
Peak spark advance is 12 degrees on the high octane table and 9 degrees on the low octane table.
I hope I didnt over do it, Any help would be appreciated because i dont want this to happen to a 3rd engine engine I get it rebuilt.
This might be your problem. I ran 32lbs of boost with the same plugs but im gapped at .026 17degrees of timing for yrs. With meth and 93
My ring gap was much bigger then yours. And i had my back coolant ports blocked off so that's not the problem. And irun iron block. dont know if that matters.
@Brad7778 said 15psi, pretty big ring gaps, never said what he's doing for an oil catch can setup, and 12 timing high / 9 timing low, and 10.x:1 AF, and never indicated if he is intercooled.
So if he's not intercooled this is worth keeping in mind.
Oil recirculating is not a good thing either, can lead to detonation.
So if he's not intercooled this is worth keeping in mind.
Oil recirculating is not a good thing either, can lead to detonation.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 730
Likes: 208
Good points John , didn't even consider that it might not be intercooled and engine oil getting in can certainly cause problems. I also run .025 " plug gap but I don't think. 020 will cause any , could be wrong about that damage
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
I’ll add a few things.
If the ecu and engine came from the same truck then the coil dwell table should be correct. GM seemed to swizzle coils around with no rhyme or reason.
10.3:1 is way rich. Maybe getting close to the limit of your wideband. As others have mentioned 11-11.5 works well.
Best to run maybe 10 degrees of timing at 15lbs.
Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.
Ron
If the ecu and engine came from the same truck then the coil dwell table should be correct. GM seemed to swizzle coils around with no rhyme or reason.
10.3:1 is way rich. Maybe getting close to the limit of your wideband. As others have mentioned 11-11.5 works well.
Best to run maybe 10 degrees of timing at 15lbs.
Then lastly, do you have the rear steam vents connected? I think it helps. I know GM blocked them at some point, but just the same. If you can find an orig 4 corner steam tube it’s easy.
Ron
Ive come to realize reading through this thread that I had the AFR to rich and will remember from now on with 93 that my afr should be around 11 to 11.5.
I am getting a shop to dyno/street tune it this go around, so hopefully they can get it all on the right track.
I dont have the back steam ports connected but I think i will get an aftermarket kit to connect them.
Hard to tell from those pics but to me it's looking like it leaned out and torched that piston and possibly others . First thing that typically goes from too much timing is the ring lands . Gotta get it apart . Thinking the injectors are poorly matched or it's leaning out up top due to lack of fuel caused by pump , filter , regulator or voltage. You could have those injectors flowed or go ahead and put that money towards new ones . Once you're back up and running you'll have to be very careful about making sure you don't lean it out again, maybe upgrade pump wiring and maybe pump before testing? On the steam lines , I opted to just stick with the front lines and it's worked fine up to 17lbs . Engine angle makes a difference as long as it's up in front a bit any gases ( steam or air ) will make there way to the front be blead out , coolant temp , pressure and boiling point of coolant will all effect the amount of steam produced. Has anyone tried mounting a stock front steam line on the rear and the just plumb them together? Would be dirt cheap
When i get into it i will be posting about it all, and hopefully come to a conclusion of what happened.
I have started to lean towards the injectors causing it to lean out. I do have the racetronix hotwire kit ran to the pump. I seem to forget to add those to the parts list.
The engine is mounted at the factory angle, but I think I will add an aftermarket steamport kit.
br7 spark plugs gapped at .020",
This might be your problem. I ran 32lbs of boost with the same plugs but im gapped at .026 17degrees of timing for yrs. With meth and 93
My ring gap was much bigger then yours. And i had my back coolant ports blocked off so that's not the problem. And irun iron block. dont know if that matters.
This might be your problem. I ran 32lbs of boost with the same plugs but im gapped at .026 17degrees of timing for yrs. With meth and 93
My ring gap was much bigger then yours. And i had my back coolant ports blocked off so that's not the problem. And irun iron block. dont know if that matters.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
@Brad7778 said 15psi, pretty big ring gaps, never said what he's doing for an oil catch can setup, and 12 timing high / 9 timing low, and 10.x:1 AF, and never indicated if he is intercooled.
So if he's not intercooled this is worth keeping in mind.
Oil recirculating is not a good thing either, can lead to detonation.
So if he's not intercooled this is worth keeping in mind.
Oil recirculating is not a good thing either, can lead to detonation.
I do have an intercooler on it, not a very big one at the moment. I do have a cheap catch can, routed from driver side valve cover into catch can then from catch can to intake(pre turbo). Passenger side valve cover has a breather. There was never much oil in it, lots of condensation with a few oil spots floating on the water. I might have a picture of it i can post.
There is no oil residue in any part of the intake system.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 730
Likes: 208
Think you said you're in Canada? So am I. Where abouts are you? I have a gen4 4.8 here that a buddy gave me ( supposed to be good ) I was only going to keep the 799 heads of it as I already have a couple gen 3 4.8s . I'd be happy to donate the rods /pistons if you want them , or the whole short block ?
That is correct, the ringlands looked fractured and not melted. The top of the piston and ringland still look brand new. That piston maybe had a 2000 km on it. I still have it on the shelf of shame, Im going to need a bigger shelf for what I assume this next tear down is going to reveal.
I also barely recall talks of the 2nd ring being tighter than the 1st ring doing a similar thing. You also need to check the gap on the oil rings, they are normally fine but I have seen new sets that were too tight. I could be way out in left field idk. For that low of boost you shouldnt have been blowing the spark out with any of the stock coils. But too much fuel can put the spark out too
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2026
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
Think you said you're in Canada? So am I. Where abouts are you? I have a gen4 4.8 here that a buddy gave me ( supposed to be good ) I was only going to keep the 799 heads of it as I already have a couple gen 3 4.8s . I'd be happy to donate the rods /pistons if you want them , or the whole short block ?
I seem to remember that happening to a guy a few years back and some of the smarter guys said too rich of an afr and it will get fuel built up between the rings and when it ignites it will break the piston right there.
I also barely recall talks of the 2nd ring being tighter than the 1st ring doing a similar thing. You also need to check the gap on the oil rings, they are normally fine but I have seen new sets that were too tight. I could be way out in left field idk. For that low of boost you shouldnt have been blowing the spark out with any of the stock coils. But too much fuel can put the spark out too
I also barely recall talks of the 2nd ring being tighter than the 1st ring doing a similar thing. You also need to check the gap on the oil rings, they are normally fine but I have seen new sets that were too tight. I could be way out in left field idk. For that low of boost you shouldnt have been blowing the spark out with any of the stock coils. But too much fuel can put the spark out too
Ive never felt or heard spark blow out, so I did my research and watched videos of it and that is the conclusion I came to. It went away when I closed the gap on the spark plugs, could having weak coils cause the spark plugs to not fire properly?
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 200
Likes: 5
From: chicago
As far as I know everything should be original ecu and engine, I bought the truck years ago off an older gentleman.
Ive come to realize reading through this thread that I had the AFR to rich and will remember from now on with 93 that my afr should be around 11 to 11.5.
I am getting a shop to dyno/street tune it this go around, so hopefully they can get it all on the right track.
I dont have the back steam ports connected but I think i will get an aftermarket kit to connect them.
Im hoping to get the engine pulled out of the truck and taken apart once the weather gets better. My garage is not insulated or heated, wish it was because its -25 Celsius here.
When i get into it i will be posting about it all, and hopefully come to a conclusion of what happened.
I have started to lean towards the injectors causing it to lean out. I do have the racetronix hotwire kit ran to the pump. I seem to forget to add those to the parts list.
The engine is mounted at the factory angle, but I think I will add an aftermarket steamport kit.
Im curious what coils you had, maybe mine were getting weak because I was definitely getting spark blowout, so I worked my way down from .026" to the .020". What ring gaps were you using?
Ive come to realize reading through this thread that I had the AFR to rich and will remember from now on with 93 that my afr should be around 11 to 11.5.
I am getting a shop to dyno/street tune it this go around, so hopefully they can get it all on the right track.
I dont have the back steam ports connected but I think i will get an aftermarket kit to connect them.
Im hoping to get the engine pulled out of the truck and taken apart once the weather gets better. My garage is not insulated or heated, wish it was because its -25 Celsius here.
When i get into it i will be posting about it all, and hopefully come to a conclusion of what happened.
I have started to lean towards the injectors causing it to lean out. I do have the racetronix hotwire kit ran to the pump. I seem to forget to add those to the parts list.
The engine is mounted at the factory angle, but I think I will add an aftermarket steamport kit.
Im curious what coils you had, maybe mine were getting weak because I was definitely getting spark blowout, so I worked my way down from .026" to the .020". What ring gaps were you using?