Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Who are you talking to? I am running out at around 5100 rpms.

ChevyNo1

Sorry, I thought I quoted SDB when I posted, guess not!

But thanks for your info too . . . I wonder @ what rpm I'll run lean without the BAP, and then how much extra I can get by using it.

- Dug

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Exactly and yes!


https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Racetronix

S_J_H

People tend to think of voltage step up boxes as a sort of bandaid. But it's far from a bandaid. For cryin out loud the pumps are all electric and need power to run. If you have to supply voltage why limit your self to 12-14 volts!

I used to run a small dry cell 6 volt in series with the 12 volt car batt for a total of just under 22 actual volts to the pump. I had it activate the high volt setting by a simple WOT switch and spdt relay wired to the pump. It was all posted on the now long gone tech-ls1.com
Total cost of the setup was maybe 35$ including the battery which lasted what seemed like forever without a recharge.
The fuel increase even with the stock vane pump from a 98' was DRAMATIC when it got 22 volts to it. The pump never failed after 100's of runs with the high voltage as it only saw the extra Volts for a max duration of a 1/4 mile run.
I still have the pump sitting in my tool box.
Before I'll ever waste any money on a voltage step down box for my current aeromotive to make it more street friendly on hot days, I'll install a good intank and run my old DIY battery in series setup again.
I have tried 3 fuel pump setups now. ( Many more but we'll keep it to this car. )
stock pump with ~22 volts,
dual intanks,
Aeromotive external which is the current setup.
The voltage boosted setup worked best for street duty IMO.
Steve

ChevyNo1

Great info Steve, thanks!

- Dug

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Any one know what sponsors sell the KB Boosta Pump???? I am wanting to run one with my setup...... Does anyone know if ill have a problem with voltage if i move my battery to the back.... it comes off a Optima Yellow top now and in 0/1 gauge wire and into a 15 farad cap. From there i have 10 gauge wire feeding my pump being turned on by stock relays.... If i move the battery to the back i would think with such a large cable (0/1 gauge) i would have little if any voltage loss and just run a KB boost a pump to help me out.... what ya think.??
Kyle

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Consider the MSD unit as it ramps voltage with manifold pressure which alleviates pressure spike issues common to the KB's off/on operation.

Thunder Racing carries them.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Thats some good info to know.... So the MSD uses a boost Ref. then?? If so how is everything routed??? is a n extra line for Boost ref. run all the way to the back of the car?? Thanks
Kyle

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Yes, a small rubber hose is all that is needed.

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

Okay how about some finalizing for a customer.

Already have your 99' PnP Kit, MSD BAP, Aero FPR.

Your install on the fuel pump is awesome, great instructions! That's done. Now I need to route the harness...seems pretty simple, Power, Ground and a piggyback on one connector near the top of the tank. Where I'm a bit lost is where the BAP plugs in (heard it plugged right into your harness!). There is a single power wire "jumped" in the harness...I figured that has something to do with it but there is only one assy to make a similiar plug in the kit. The BAP has a Batt-Red and a Batt-Black.

Do you have a schematic or instructions for the best way to do this or could you give me some brief instructions.

One more question...any problem mounting the BAP under the car behind the the rear seats where the factory "T" block is....car does not see rain very much if at all.

Mark

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

That is a good place for the BAP.

Both grounds from the BAP go to a good chassis ground!
The red wires are fitted with the supplied connector set and plugged into the Racetronix harness. Battery side is towards the relay. BAP is fitted with male connector on the battery side. Female connector towards the pump. Keep the BAP power wires down to apx 8" in length.

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the quick response.....shouldn't I have two connnector assy's then...sounds like the BAP runs in series (between the Battery and Relay on the harness) with the harness. After that chassis grounds and a boost reference and it should be good to go. Let me know if I'm on track.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

No, only the + side is in series with the harness. One male and one female required only. The interface connector is already on the Racetronix harness.
The BAP grounds go to chassis not the Racetronix harness.

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

Sorry...went and looked at it again in between posts....I do have both connectors...makes more sense now. Let me sum it up and tell me if this sounds right....

when I'm complete (assuming I locate the BAP near the factory "T" as I stated above) both red wires will be plugged into the Racetronix harness and they will be less than 3' long each, the chassis grounds can be put anywhere near by and also be relatively short. The only wire going up to the front of the car should be the Batt Red for the Racetronix harness. Then I just need to route my boost reference line. I'm I correct?

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Correct but you should leave a bit more than 3" of wire just in case you need to fix a connection. 6-8" is good. Make some good grounds. If there is enough wire you can run the BAP grounds to the same bolt the Racetronix harness + relay uses. Solder all the connections and coat them with the supplied grease to prevent corrosion.

SDB

iTrader: (7)

I mounted my KB under the rear/driver side seat...fits fine. Any problem with this???

Thanks

SDB

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

As long as the wires are well protected and there is adequate ventilation you should be OK.

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

3 feet not 3 " inches...but I understand your point. It will probably end up 1'-3' on all wires near the back of the car. Thanks for all your help!

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

I mounted mine behind the fuse box on the driverside very easy install looks very clean.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

This must be w/o a Racetronix harness?