Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Why can't I get my QMP kit to finally work?

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Old 08-14-2004, 12:08 PM
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I had a mis-fire and it was a bad coil. It would read on EFILive like I had two mis-firng cylinders. It was really only one, the latter in the firing order. So I am guessing #1 coil.
Old 08-14-2004, 01:05 PM
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Placement of the intercooler is not the probem either. I had a stock cooling system with Qmp turbo kit, 6.0l iron block and in 90 degree weather it was consistantly 162 degrees.
Old 08-14-2004, 01:43 PM
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I agree...placement or the intercooler is not the problem. heck my temps dropped 30 degrees by moving my tranny cooler from the air dam to the radiator.....how does that make sense? I dunno but that's what happened.
Old 08-14-2004, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
Placement of the intercooler is not the probem either. I had a stock cooling system with Qmp turbo kit, 6.0l iron block and in 90 degree weather it was consistantly 162 degrees.
Bs, go turn you ac on and sit in dead stop traffic in 100degree weather and tell me that your car does not run 10-15 degrees hotter even overheating. Lmao at 162 your motor is not going to run that cool except right when you start it up.
Old 08-14-2004, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Does it audibly miss?

The guys have pointed out all the obvious issues. I think that swapping plugs, coils, and wires are easy solutions, but I would also see if the coil wires or something have a break in them and are grounding out or something. Maybe go over the harness bit by bit.. Have you tried running the car in total darkness to look for a lightshow?
Yes it audibly misses, the SES blinks constantly, and the car stumbles alot especially while on the highway or during warm up from about 140-180 degrees.
Old 08-14-2004, 03:52 PM
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Do a leakdown, and check your fuel pressure under load. PM me as I think I know what your problem is you just described something that struck a chord.
Old 08-14-2004, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
Placement of the intercooler is not the probem either. I had a stock cooling system with Qmp turbo kit, 6.0l iron block and in 90 degree weather it was consistantly 162 degrees.
90 degree temps are usually fine. Sometimes when its around 90 it will begin to overheat. Usually when it gets up to around 100 outside is when it really begins to have problems.
Old 08-14-2004, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by vhgjk123
Yes it audibly misses, the SES blinks constantly, and the car stumbles alot especially while on the highway or during warm up from about 140-180 degrees.
I know this is going to sound really stupid, but make sure your plug wires are on there nice and tight and they click. I had the same thing happen to me and I thought I had the plug wires on there tight but I didn't.

If not...then I'd say remove the Valve Cover and make sure your retainer/spring/rocker arms are ok.
Old 08-14-2004, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkblueTA
I know this is going to sound really stupid, but make sure your plug wires are on there nice and tight and they click. I had the same thing happen to me and I thought I had the plug wires on there tight but I didn't.

If not...then I'd say remove the Valve Cover and make sure your retainer/spring/rocker arms are ok.
He's got the wrong wires for the kit on there. The MSDs and NGKs need to be put back in.
Old 08-14-2004, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vhgjk123
90 degree temps are usually fine. Sometimes when its around 90 it will begin to overheat. Usually when it gets up to around 100 outside is when it really begins to have problems.
It overheats with the ac on right? Otherwise when off it basically just gets very hot.
Old 08-14-2004, 05:02 PM
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bent push rods..you miss a shift? even pne?
Old 08-14-2004, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
It overheats with the ac on right? Otherwise when off it basically just gets very hot.

No, without the a/c the car stays right at perfect operating temp no matter what the outside temp is. It only overheats with the a/c on in hot weather.

My MSD plug wires got melted because the old heat sheilds burned up. I had to put different plug wires on because the boots are ceramic coated and able to withstand the intense heat. The NGK plugs never worked from even the beginning. Before the engine rebuild I had 0 misfires with the autolites. Right after the engine rebuild is when all the misfires began happening.

Basically, the things that changed when I went from 0 misfires to many misfires are pistons, piston rings, bearings, double roller timing chain, push rods and connecting rods. All of that went on my car and then it began misfiring and a/c overheating
Old 08-14-2004, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by vhgjk123
My MSD plug wires got melted because the old heat sheilds burned up. I had to put different plug wires on because the boots are ceramic coated and able to withstand the intense heat.
If you melted the aluminum heat shields, then you're running so intensely lean that it's frying the pistons. You probably didn't hurt the forged slugs, but I guarantee you've damaged the head gasket.

And this is for the rocket scientist that suggested pulling ONE head was not appropriate:

You need more education on LS1 engines, because pulling a head is a 60 minute proposition. NOTHING will tell more than inspecting a REUSABLE head gasket and the associated valves. 100 lbs. of static air pressure with a leak down doesn't even come close to the 150 lbs. of static compression, much less the additional 9-15 lbs. of boost he's making. A leak down can easily show nothing with a gasket breach.

You may also notice that it was the last suggestion in my list. This guy STILL hasn't bothered to swap the coil packs, which was suggested by at least three other people.

Doesn't seem like he's serious about solving this if he's not following the advice he's solicited.

Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
Bs, go turn you ac on and sit in dead stop traffic in 100degree weather and tell me that your car does not run 10-15 degrees hotter even overheating. Lmao at 162 your motor is not going to run that cool except right when you start it up.
Been there and done that. YOU have issues with your car. Mine doesn't do that, and of the two of us, apparently I'm the only one with the I/C in the way (formerly).

SC-
Old 08-14-2004, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SS00Blue

Been there and done that. YOU have issues with your car. Mine doesn't do that, and of the two of us, apparently I'm the only one with the I/C in the way (formerly).

SC-
Actually I have no issues. But for you to say you can run around in 100 degree heat with the ac on for long periods of time with no heating problems is a flat out lie.
Old 08-14-2004, 07:43 PM
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[QUOTE=SS00Blue]If you melted the aluminum heat shields, then you're running so intensely lean that it's frying the pistons. You probably didn't hurt the forged slugs, but I guarantee you've damaged the head gasket.

The heat sheilds are not aluminum. They were fiber glass and were forced to rest on the exhaust manifold because of the manifold design. With a a/f of 10.8 I doubt its running lean. Also, I am only running 7lbs of boost.
Old 08-14-2004, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
Actually I have no issues. But for you to say you can run around in 100 degree heat with the ac on for long periods of time with no heating problems is a flat out lie.
You are misinformed. Calling me a liar makes you look stupid. I have NO issues with heat, and only one of us has this set-up. YOU obviously have issues with the junk that you run. With just a cam, overheating issues should make you wonder. Your warmed over junk is overheating, and you got convinced that it's normal. Wake up! Post up when you actually know about what you ignorantly speak.

Originally Posted by vhgjk123
The heat sheilds are not aluminum. They were fiber glass and were forced to rest on the exhaust manifold because of the manifold design. With a a/f of 10.8 I doubt its running lean. Also, I am only running 7lbs of boost.
Alright, I don't understand your story. I have a 2000 SS and the stock heat shields are NOT fiberglass. They're stamped aluminum. So do you have aftermarket shields?

Where is the 10.8 A/F data? Is that a wideband or the stock O2s.

Don't get me wrong. I am TRYING to help you, but you still haven't indicated that you've swapped coils, or put the specified plugs or wires back on. The turbo kit is NOT selecting two cylinders to mis-fire. ANYONE can tell you that much.

I'm just trying to help.

SC-

Last edited by SS00Blue; 08-14-2004 at 08:26 PM.
Old 08-14-2004, 08:17 PM
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Remember though that at idle when you are misfiring you are not running at 10.8:1...that only happens when you are in open loop (half/full thottle). If you are dumping that much full at idle you could definitely have a misfire due to being to rich. If that were the case you would have to look at other things. When does the car actually misfire?All the time?Does it run normal as it's warming up and then all of a sudden it starts misfiring or does it happen as soon as you start it up?
Old 08-14-2004, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SS00Blue
You are misinformed. Calling me a liar makes you look stupid. I have NO issues with heat, and only one of us has this set-up. YOU obviously have issues with the junk that you run. With just a cam, overheating issues should make you wonder. Your warmed over junk is overheating, and you got convinced that it's normal. Wake up! Post up when you actually know about what you ignorantly speak.



Alright, I don't understand your story. I have a 2000 SS and the stock heat shields are NOT fiberglass. They're stamped aluminum. So do you have aftermarket shields?

Where is the 10.8 A/F data? Is that a wideband or the stock O2s.

Don't get me wrong. I am TRYING to help you, but you still haven't indicated that you've swapped coils, or put the specified plugs or wires back on. The turbo kit is NOT selecting two cylinders to mis-fire. ANYONE can tell you that much.

I'm just trying to help.

SC-

THe only ignorant one here is you. I don't even have the car in my sig anymore! LMFAO. I never had overheating problems with that one either. Nothing you have said makes any logical sense. Which kit do you have on your car? Or do you even have a turbo kit? I do have a 99Z with a Qmp kit though.
Old 08-14-2004, 09:21 PM
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[QUOTE=vhgjk123]
Originally Posted by SS00Blue
If you melted the aluminum heat shields, then you're running so intensely lean that it's frying the pistons. You probably didn't hurt the forged slugs, but I guarantee you've damaged the head gasket.

The heat sheilds are not aluminum. They were fiber glass and were forced to rest on the exhaust manifold because of the manifold design. With a a/f of 10.8 I doubt its running lean. Also, I am only running 7lbs of boost.
Rob has specifically stated NOT to use those fiberglass heat shields for this reason. They actually ruined plug wires. That's why he ONLY recommends and uses the MSD wires on his single turbo kit. The MSD wires have bendable portions so that you can prevent them from lying on the manifolds.

The amount of boost you're running has nothing to do with causing more or less heat. As long as it's tuned correctly, regardless of PSI you're running you shouldn't have manifolds glowing. The proper fueling keeps the combustion temperatures more cool versus a lean situation.

Even then, a plug wire lying on a stock LS1 manifold WILL melt. Manifolds get hot and will melt plug wires.

Rob even states not to use any sleeves of any kind in this thread, last page, last response by Rob:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=sleeve

Last edited by CANNIBAL; 08-14-2004 at 09:39 PM.
Old 08-14-2004, 09:24 PM
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This post that you started illustrates the need for the MSD wires per Rob's recommendations.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...&highlight=QMP

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