Forced Induction Cost
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Centrifugal City
Take your first estimate.
When reality hits, it'll be double.
Then deal with it.
You'll be lucky if it isn't triple what you originally thought it would cost.
When reality hits, it'll be double.
Then deal with it.
You'll be lucky if it isn't triple what you originally thought it would cost.
Last edited by MelloYellow; Oct 5, 2004 at 11:50 AM.
TTI makes a nice kit. a hunded times better then the qmp kit in my mind i've seen them both next to each other. And im sure you've heard what qmp made for power. It has a log manifold but still makes power...... On the other hand i have installed my TTI T76 and invested $7000 with myself doing the labor but still havn't gotten anywhere yet as i need valve springs, new plugs and wires, and that still might not fix the problem. It never ends!
A lot depends on how much work you can do yourself. It is much cheaper now that people know what works and what doesn't. 500rwhp on a stock motor should be a cakewalk. 6-700 doesnt require a whole lot more but it is much easier if you have a turbo that's efficient in that power range. If you have a A4 car, the stock rear will last much longer than behind a M6 car.
SSblue, good point, but to get back on point...
Some folks talk about building the engine first, and then at some point slapping on an FI kit. I would rather slap the kit on first, and see if I like it. You can always build an engine on the side. FI 9:1 shortblocks are coming down in price and going UP in quality.
Some folks talk about building the engine first, and then at some point slapping on an FI kit. I would rather slap the kit on first, and see if I like it. You can always build an engine on the side. FI 9:1 shortblocks are coming down in price and going UP in quality.
50 as it is running right now, counting the cost of the car easy to add up quickly
20k car (used)
10k turbo system and dfi
10k in engine and fuel system
10k in driveline, suspension, wheels/tires misc.
p.s. thanks for the compliment
i shipped my car across country sure.. worth it? ask the people who have the production kit if they are happy i did.
20k car (used)
10k turbo system and dfi
10k in engine and fuel system
10k in driveline, suspension, wheels/tires misc.
p.s. thanks for the compliment
i shipped my car across country sure.. worth it? ask the people who have the production kit if they are happy i did.
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It takes alot man....... its not just the initial cost of the turbo kit.... its the parts after that you break with the new found power....... I figure i have $15K under the hood of my car..... now that i finally have a built motor that can take the HP i now need to upgrade my drivetrain......
$2500 for a built 3 speed, and $2500 for my rearend..... .... it never stops......
Kyle
$2500 for a built 3 speed, and $2500 for my rearend..... .... it never stops......
Kyle
Oh great we are actually trying to calculate totals? 
I think MMouse's breakdown is pretty accurate. You don't need the best heads or the biggest engine but you need a thorough fuel system.
I think MMouse's breakdown is pretty accurate. You don't need the best heads or the biggest engine but you need a thorough fuel system.
Thread Starter
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From: Maryland/Illinois
I appreciate all the info guys, and I didn't mean to sound like a whiner that doesnt want to pay what it costs for power. I have a 70 chevelle with a big-block in it, so I more than understand speed = money. I just don't have any experience modifying a fuel injected engine. What I was looking for was a rough estimate of how much money it takes to get some amount of power, and you guys have given me that. For the moment I do not have the needed 8-10k to START building a good turbo car, so I might go a different route.
I have been leaning towards heads/cam and boltons, and it still is appealing for someone like me on a budget. However, I like your idea PSJ. Perhaps if the HP turbo kit for LS1 cars is under 5k I might just save up and start with that. From what I have read the HP kit looks top quality, and it looks fairly easy (not necesarily cheap) to upgrade down the road. I could start with the stage 1 kit on my stock engine, then if I like it a couple years down the road build a good forged engine and turn the boost up
. Any thoughts on that?
By the way, I do envy all you guys with these crazy fast cars
I have been leaning towards heads/cam and boltons, and it still is appealing for someone like me on a budget. However, I like your idea PSJ. Perhaps if the HP turbo kit for LS1 cars is under 5k I might just save up and start with that. From what I have read the HP kit looks top quality, and it looks fairly easy (not necesarily cheap) to upgrade down the road. I could start with the stage 1 kit on my stock engine, then if I like it a couple years down the road build a good forged engine and turn the boost up
. Any thoughts on that?By the way, I do envy all you guys with these crazy fast cars
Fuel system can be way cheaper than 1500 if you can do the work yourself. My current fuel system is 97-98 vette rails....2 pumps..hobbs switch...wire....tee and clamps/fittings.
I figure I got 600 or less retail in mine and that is with me doing the work....fuel rails to pump. it took me a few screw ups to get there though. NOW I am happy with my fuel setup and should be good for at least 7-800 rwhp. I still say ARP rod bolts on stock rods with forged pistons..mls gaskets can take you a LONG way and be dependable...but that's just me.....I don't have a lot of money and can't do everything FIRST RATE.
I figure I got 600 or less retail in mine and that is with me doing the work....fuel rails to pump. it took me a few screw ups to get there though. NOW I am happy with my fuel setup and should be good for at least 7-800 rwhp. I still say ARP rod bolts on stock rods with forged pistons..mls gaskets can take you a LONG way and be dependable...but that's just me.....I don't have a lot of money and can't do everything FIRST RATE.
Originally Posted by cablebandit
Fuel system can be way cheaper than 1500 if you can do the work yourself. My current fuel system is 97-98 vette rails....2 pumps..hobbs switch...wire....tee and clamps/fittings.
I figure I got 600 or less retail in mine and that is with me doing the work....fuel rails to pump. it took me a few screw ups to get there though. NOW I am happy with my fuel setup and should be good for at least 7-800 rwhp. I still say ARP rod bolts on stock rods with forged pistons..mls gaskets can take you a LONG way and be dependable...but that's just me.....I don't have a lot of money and can't do everything FIRST RATE.
I figure I got 600 or less retail in mine and that is with me doing the work....fuel rails to pump. it took me a few screw ups to get there though. NOW I am happy with my fuel setup and should be good for at least 7-800 rwhp. I still say ARP rod bolts on stock rods with forged pistons..mls gaskets can take you a LONG way and be dependable...but that's just me.....I don't have a lot of money and can't do everything FIRST RATE.
Kyle
You are correct...I did not figure in injectors. I would figure svo 42# for up to 600 rwhp at 300 bux or the 60# for more at 450.00
I think you are wrong about the ability of the stock lines but that is my opinion 600rwhp has been done more than once on the stock lines/rail....and with one pump.
Like I said.....I can't afford first rate components so I make do with what I can afford and work with those limitations.
I think you are wrong about the ability of the stock lines but that is my opinion
600rwhp has been done more than once on the stock lines/rail....and with one pump. Like I said.....I can't afford first rate components so I make do with what I can afford and work with those limitations.
I know stock lines can do it with two intank pumps.... i was talking about the stock rails... and intank Regulator...... I only added a -8 braided line because i needed a return line in my system and i didnt want to deal with intank pumps.... i run one external pump.
Kyle
Kyle
turbo cost Lets just say never ending money pit.
Originally Posted by bowtieman81
OK fellas, I am relatively new here. I am quickly becoming a fan of turbos, however the only thing I don't like is the cost. It seems a normal front mount turbo kit is ~$5000. But it seems you need other things as well. So I have several questions:
What is needed in addition to a turbo kit? (fuel pump, injectors, etc)?
I have read the sigs of several of you guys (you have some sweet setups) and you list the components but no costs. Can you guys give me a close estimate of what your total FI system cost? This is assuming a totally stock LS1 car to start with.
I have read all about STS, and if they come out with a FMIC I would seriously consider it. But I prefer the all throttle, no bottle approach with my car (whether its a bottle of nitrous or methanol). I think I could get about the same power from a head/cam package for less money than STS. Maybe I am wrong? Thanks,
Pete
What is needed in addition to a turbo kit? (fuel pump, injectors, etc)?
I have read the sigs of several of you guys (you have some sweet setups) and you list the components but no costs. Can you guys give me a close estimate of what your total FI system cost? This is assuming a totally stock LS1 car to start with.
I have read all about STS, and if they come out with a FMIC I would seriously consider it. But I prefer the all throttle, no bottle approach with my car (whether its a bottle of nitrous or methanol). I think I could get about the same power from a head/cam package for less money than STS. Maybe I am wrong? Thanks,
Pete
Harlan did 600 with vette rails a long time ago....Mike Brown did 9s at 136 with stock rails but you do need a regulator imho with the CAS regulator being a good one....I plumbed mine originally into the stock return line and did away with the stock regulator when I had the stock lines/rails. The vette rails are better than the f-body rails because regulation is on the rails where it should be. I hope mine will support north of 650rwp...we will see soon
Originally Posted by cablebandit
Harlan did 600 with vette rails a long time ago....Mike Brown did 9s at 136 with stock rails but you do need a regulator imho with the CAS regulator being a good one....I plumbed mine originally into the stock return line and did away with the stock regulator when I had the stock lines/rails. The vette rails are better than the f-body rails because regulation is on the rails where it should be. I hope mine will support north of 650rwp...we will see soon
Cool i forgot the Reg. is on the rails on the Vette rails...........
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Centrifugal City
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Cool i forgot the Reg. is on the rails on the Vette rails...........
TIA
Last edited by MelloYellow; Oct 5, 2004 at 05:52 PM.
it's whatever the cost of the rail/regulator is. Then you can run rubber hose for a return back to the tank I suppose. I used an extra factory feed line i had from another car. The return line has no pressure on it so I don't think it is that big of a deal.