how far for a stock crank
10-15-2004, 03:50 PM
#22
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gen 3 bu
how much stuff do you break?
is it streetable?
what size cam?
what head flow?
whats the potential in a 2800 pound car?
how about t04e's instead of t66's?
is it streetable?
what size cam?
what head flow?
whats the potential in a 2800 pound car?
how about t04e's instead of t66's?
I know he's still running the stock aluminum block.
10-15-2004, 04:28 PM
#23
Originally Posted by eviltwins
IIRC he doesn't drive it on the street much, the cam is like 257/244, heads probably flow a ton.
I know he's still running the stock aluminum block.
I know he's still running the stock aluminum block.
close on the cam, 251/244 under .700 lift
heads can't flow that much, only got a punny 2.020 intake valve
10-16-2004, 12:35 PM
#25
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: englewood, ohio
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by y2khawk
A little history of the progress
nearly 4 years ago: Incon kit onto a stock motor, down to the valve springs. Installed at 14k miles on the motor. Ran it like that until 39k miles. Think the best it ever dyno'd was 580/600, went 10.9 @ 128 w/ the 6 speed and full weight.
Took motor out to do a forged setup w/ heads and cam. Went w/ billet mains in that one. It spun the 3 middle main bearings w/in 1000 miles. Never had good oil pressure. Got a new block and crank, have been runnning the factory mains and main bearings ever since. That motor went 10.0@143 w/ the 6 speed and 3600 lbs.
Pulled the heads off that motor about 2 years ago, found one piston and one head beat up from plug bits. #6 was notorious for sucking down plugs. a follow up CC on that head showed us why, chamber was 6 cc's smaller than the average. All 8 were all over the map anyway. 6 cc's is HUGE, alot more compression in that hole than expected. Makes sense it ate plugs. Also found 2 cylinder liners cracked at the bottom edge of the water jacket. Closest point to the motor mount bolt holes (running solid mounts at the time)
New block, new piston, added motor plates, converted to solid roller, same crank and rods. New turbo setup, kept 6 speed.
Never made a good pass with it.
took out weight, put in glide, new intake over the winter. Best to date, 8.52 @ 163 on 23 psi.
broke a couple 6 speeds along the way, a 10 bolt, a drive shaft, the hard parts have done quite well.
nearly 4 years ago: Incon kit onto a stock motor, down to the valve springs. Installed at 14k miles on the motor. Ran it like that until 39k miles. Think the best it ever dyno'd was 580/600, went 10.9 @ 128 w/ the 6 speed and full weight.
Took motor out to do a forged setup w/ heads and cam. Went w/ billet mains in that one. It spun the 3 middle main bearings w/in 1000 miles. Never had good oil pressure. Got a new block and crank, have been runnning the factory mains and main bearings ever since. That motor went 10.0@143 w/ the 6 speed and 3600 lbs.
Pulled the heads off that motor about 2 years ago, found one piston and one head beat up from plug bits. #6 was notorious for sucking down plugs. a follow up CC on that head showed us why, chamber was 6 cc's smaller than the average. All 8 were all over the map anyway. 6 cc's is HUGE, alot more compression in that hole than expected. Makes sense it ate plugs. Also found 2 cylinder liners cracked at the bottom edge of the water jacket. Closest point to the motor mount bolt holes (running solid mounts at the time)
New block, new piston, added motor plates, converted to solid roller, same crank and rods. New turbo setup, kept 6 speed.
Never made a good pass with it.
took out weight, put in glide, new intake over the winter. Best to date, 8.52 @ 163 on 23 psi.
broke a couple 6 speeds along the way, a 10 bolt, a drive shaft, the hard parts have done quite well.
can this be accomplished with a stock al block and stock crank?
i currently have a 2001 f-body long block with 241 heads?
does anyone know the flow potential for the heads?
Last edited by gen 3 bu; 10-16-2004 at 12:46 PM.
10-16-2004, 03:09 PM
#28
12 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Chicken Ranch, California
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by y2khawk
New block, new piston, added motor plates, converted to solid roller, same crank and rods. New turbo setup, kept 6 speed.
10-16-2004, 03:45 PM
#30
Originally Posted by Magic Chicken
So that's a stock LS1 crank, how about the rods? You never mentioned if you swapped them out when you went forged.
He did say he used forged rods..... with a setup like that you would be asking for it if you were using stock rods..... read the whole post he said it on the first page when he broke his setup down
Kyle
10-16-2004, 03:50 PM
#31
12 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Chicken Ranch, California
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
He did say he used forged rods..... with a setup like that you would be asking for it if you were using stock rods..... read the whole post he said it on the first page when he broke his setup down
Kyle
Kyle
10-17-2004, 01:12 PM
#32
hey y2khawk what is a good high 9 low 10 second cam for a twin turbo set up
this is what i got
6.0 block im gonna bore .30
forged pistons
callies rods i guess like 6.125
6.0 fully ported heads
ls6 ported matched intake
stock crank nitrated
arp everything
what turbos i dont know
what injectors i dont know yet
what turbos do you think i need as well as the the cam
thanks
hell mid 9's would be good
this is what i got
6.0 block im gonna bore .30
forged pistons
callies rods i guess like 6.125
6.0 fully ported heads
ls6 ported matched intake
stock crank nitrated
arp everything
what turbos i dont know
what injectors i dont know yet
what turbos do you think i need as well as the the cam
thanks
hell mid 9's would be good
