3bar Initial Tune Results - HP TUNERS - T76 Speed Inc
#21
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This is the main reason I decided to go with HP Tuners trade in program....my LS1edit and EFIlive are now property of Keith and company
This upgrade(3bar map sensor) was discussed on their forum so it made the decision to go with HPtuners a no brainer. So far their whole package has been really great. Just can't wait to ditch this MAF. Gotta love 800hp/770lbft in a street car...![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Keep this TTT...feed us some more info Keith
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Keep this TTT...feed us some more info Keith
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#22
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Originally Posted by Grant B
Is that a turbonetics T76? You guys should think about trying the PTE's 74mm turbo (ie a Garrett GT42 compressor wheel, there is a map on Garrett's GT catalog PDF). Flows better and surges less than a 76 (at least thats what the maps show, and the results on Supras). Probably wouldn't be a big improvement though, just something to think about for the guys who are putting kits together. Hell, according to Turbonetics, the T72 flows just as much as the 76 as is less likely to surge (although I don't guess anyone has surging problems on these motors?)
What is the hot side of the turbo? CR of the engine?
What is the hot side of the turbo? CR of the engine?
#24
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smokinhawk- Tuning is not hard, just time consuming. The VE table is extended, and there is alot of resolution. Idle and part throttle are both great.
XJGPN- Yes, speed density.
PSJ- No, fuel consumption will decline after peak torque, as will the values in the VE table to maintain a steady A/F.
Realquick- Fuel is 110 octane. Griffin front mount (IAT's going from 70 degrees to 74 degrees at the end of a pull). Cam is 225/225 113lsa 111icl, .581 lift I believe.
TACruiser- Realquick answered your question.
ONYOURLS1- Not on the first date.
Mightymouse- You would install the 3 bar sensor (which we also have adaptor wiring harnesses for), set MAF fail frequency to 10, MAF performance to no ses light, than tune with the VE table. You could start out with the stock VE table up to 100kpa, than scale it up from there.
GrantB- It is an Innovative GT76, R-trim, 1.15 a/r
Wicked_Hugger99- I can do that
XJGPN- Yes, speed density.
PSJ- No, fuel consumption will decline after peak torque, as will the values in the VE table to maintain a steady A/F.
Realquick- Fuel is 110 octane. Griffin front mount (IAT's going from 70 degrees to 74 degrees at the end of a pull). Cam is 225/225 113lsa 111icl, .581 lift I believe.
TACruiser- Realquick answered your question.
ONYOURLS1- Not on the first date.
Mightymouse- You would install the 3 bar sensor (which we also have adaptor wiring harnesses for), set MAF fail frequency to 10, MAF performance to no ses light, than tune with the VE table. You could start out with the stock VE table up to 100kpa, than scale it up from there.
GrantB- It is an Innovative GT76, R-trim, 1.15 a/r
Wicked_Hugger99- I can do that
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#26
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Originally Posted by eviltwins
The T76 flows about 5lbs/minute (50 HP) more air than the T72 wheel.
T72: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/compressors/T72.gif
T76: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/compressors/T76.gif
I'm about 99% positive the regular PT74 does not use a GT-series compressor wheel, you have to special order it as a GT42-74 or a GT42-76 with a TO4 flange.
PTE does some weird stuff though, they supposedly had a TO4S 63-trim 67mm wheel copied for a Supra owner (its flows a bit better than a T66, and surges less) because they couldn't source the original wheel.
#27
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
this could be real big if it is real affordable.. anybody want to detail the 'how'
remove maf, add 3 bar map and rescale the whole ve grid?
remove maf, add 3 bar map and rescale the whole ve grid?
Remove the MAF
Set the Injector flow rate to get the car started
The PCM is updated to do 2 BAR. 3 BAR
Copy your current VE table to the new table
Then take the 105KPA line and copy to the rest of the 105 to 200 or 300 which ever it is
Get on a mustang dyno and tune for each cell
#28
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
This is the main reason I decided to go with HP Tuners trade in program....my LS1edit and EFIlive are now property of Keith and company
This upgrade(3bar map sensor) was discussed on their forum so it made the decision to go with HPtuners a no brainer. So far their whole package has been really great. Just can't wait to ditch this MAF. Gotta love 800hp/770lbft in a street car...![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Keep this TTT...feed us some more info Keith![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Keep this TTT...feed us some more info Keith
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#30
FormerVendor
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Everyone has there own definition of a true street car.
I think once you start making more than 600rwhp you should start thinking about better fuel. It is cheap insurance.
I've accidentally ran 25lbs of boost on the street on 93 octane. It didn't break, but I consider myself lucky. I'm sure I could make some pulls on the dyno with pump fuel and high boost as well. But why risk damage to a 15k dollar engine (more in your case), for a few more dollars a gallon?
You always bring this up about pump gas, but never answer when I ask what your car has ran at the track on 93 octane?
I'm guessing it's because you either havn't ran it, or it didn't put down a good number. Either way, I think once you get it to the track and start leaning on it with 800+rwhp and 93 octane, you'll break something sooner than later.
I think once you start making more than 600rwhp you should start thinking about better fuel. It is cheap insurance.
I've accidentally ran 25lbs of boost on the street on 93 octane. It didn't break, but I consider myself lucky. I'm sure I could make some pulls on the dyno with pump fuel and high boost as well. But why risk damage to a 15k dollar engine (more in your case), for a few more dollars a gallon?
You always bring this up about pump gas, but never answer when I ask what your car has ran at the track on 93 octane?
I'm guessing it's because you either havn't ran it, or it didn't put down a good number. Either way, I think once you get it to the track and start leaning on it with 800+rwhp and 93 octane, you'll break something sooner than later.
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Originally Posted by Bryan Wilkinson
Not trying to start anything, but what did the car do on 93 OCT. That is the definition of a true street car. If you have to put $5.00 a gallon of gas in it to make that power, it becomes really expensive to drive dont you think.
#34
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Originally Posted by Bryan Wilkinson
Not trying to start anything, but what did the car do on 93 OCT. That is the definition of a true street car. If you have to put $5.00 a gallon of gas in it to make that power, it becomes really expensive to drive dont you think.
Don't know, what did the car do on 93 oct? But as to your question. That is YOUR definition of a street car. Streetable- that is completely up to the person who drives it. One mans view of streetable is another mans view of race .....see what i'm getting at. If I had that kind of power and it required race gas than so be it, thats the cost of going fast right....We've already spent xxx amount of dollars on our rides...some more than others....so whats a few gallons of race gas. I fill up on race gas before I hit the track or when I feel things are going to get interesting so no biggie there, do I need it at my powerlevels? mmmmaybe, but why take a chance with all the money i've dumped into this bucket to have some crappy pumpgas ruin my fun and engine?
Its also a turbo car, lower boost run on pump gas all day, ahh the beauty of it. But back on topic here, gotta love what this 3 bar map sensor addition is going to do for the LS1 FI world...
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PS I have a rollbar and assorted race components on my daily driver(its my only car and its never trailered to the races....I dont have one
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Last edited by frcefed98; 01-06-2005 at 09:17 PM.
#35
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Sorry for yet another off-topic post but I still consider this a street car and ill be running 93oct in it when trolling around town at 6-8psi and still be around 550-600rwhp i believe. If memory serves correct, the other turbo car they just did ( which is set up very similar to mine did 675rwhp on 93oct @10psi. IMHO, thats fairly stout for a street ride. Jims right bout runnin higher oct fuel at high boost levels cuz ill be damned if i run 93pump and 16psi and pop that lil 348. But even if im running 110oct in it and drivin on the street, ill still think of it as a street car since im driving around town in it. I always thought a "street car" was dubbed so because its simply driven on the street without any trouble regardless of fuel type. But as frcefed98 said, its all a matter of opinion. Just my double pennies. 3-bar map is kickin ****
Last edited by Wicked_Hugger99; 01-06-2005 at 09:13 PM.
#37
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Bryan, I went 136mph with belt slippage, have you bettered that 115mph run you had at Darlington? You posted a 12.5@115mph right?
Sounds like 400rwhp to me. With 800rwhp I would expect you to hit 145mph grannyshifting.
Sounds like 400rwhp to me. With 800rwhp I would expect you to hit 145mph grannyshifting.
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Originally Posted by Bryan Wilkinson
Not trying to start anything, but what did the car do on 93 OCT. That is the definition of a true street car. If you have to put $5.00 a gallon of gas in it to make that power, it becomes really expensive to drive dont you think.
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hugger,your car sounded awsome on the dyno
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Bryan, I went 136mph with belt slippage, have you bettered that 115mph run you had at Darlington? You posted a 12.5@115mph right?
Sounds like 400rwhp to me. With 800rwhp I would expect you to hit 145mph grannyshifting.
Sounds like 400rwhp to me. With 800rwhp I would expect you to hit 145mph grannyshifting.