JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I don't have a split cam. How would my baby cam in my sig react to a SC with correct tuning?

PongoX11

iTrader: (15)

The 112 Lobe seporation is going to hurt you more than it not being split. You should be able to run that cam, but I suggested ousting it for something in the 114 or higher LSA

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I guess going back to my smaller, stock '99 LS1 cam would be an option. I still have that cam and it's nearly new. I swapped cams at 28K miles. How about heads? Should I upgrade or keep the stock heads? Trying to be cost effective as possible.

Forced induction is a new world to me ... sorry to sound so clueless.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Yep he is serious.. the lope sep on a 112 is going to hurt you by bleeding off boost... so the boost u worked so hard to make is low leeking out.... FI motors like the stock cam....... if your going to do heads though do a bigger cam.. do a set of 6.0L heads to lower compression down to about 9.5-9.6:1 comp..... and i love the 224/230 .560ish/.570ish on a 114LSA on a stock cubed motor. What SC setup you looking at going with??
Kyle

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Some engine builders, tuners and cam grinders, all suggest running single pattern cams for car running 5-9psi.

The same group of folks advocate going with more exhaust duration at higher boost levels. They don't necessarily suggest going with a lot of intake duration, one reason being that it moves the power peak up by a lot potentially.

Your current cam, which is what folks have called a C2 I think, might be better than a stock 99 cam because it has more intake and exhaust duration. It's hard to say if the power peak would be higher or a lot higher. I think the beefier midrange of a 220/220 is nice vs a stock cam (204/215?).. You are not going to spend all your time at peak hp.

If you have the $ to build whatever you want, then get a different cam and get some heads that flow a lot more than stock that have lower compression like some AFR 225's or a some ported 6.0 heads.

I think a blower on a stock longblock will do like 450-500rwhp, and if you add a cam add 30 rwhp, and if you add heads add another 30 rwhp. I'm thinking 550rwhp is very achievable.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

PSJ I think his cam is a TR 220 look at his sig not a C2(224/224/581/581/112). But I believe in the 224/230 cams I run one and like it the single patterens would be fine for moderate power levels that PSJ mentioned IMO. The 112 could hurt you but there are some guys running blowers with a 112 that put down real good numbers so just when you think it won't work some one proves you wrong etc... Good luck with your decision.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well, I'm like a lot of others here. I make good money, but, my daughter starts college this year and my son is 3 years behind her, so, I have to be conservative. If I did heads and a bigger cam, I'd have to put the SC on hold. I really want a SC bad, however, I know that I will probably start breaking things once it goes on, so, I'm not sure really what to do. H/C would wipe out any money it would take to replace the 10-bolt if/when it breaks. Can't do both.

By the way, thnaks for all your suggestions ... keep 'em coming.

Worm

iTrader: (2)

I think NoGo is making 697rwhp through the 10-bolt
Hurray for the stock rear!

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

If you are on a budget, leave the cam. What is the ICL of the cam?

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

ICL is 108
ECL is 116

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Im shooting for 800rwhp on a Mustang dyno thru my 10 bolt..... if it breaks ill go with a 9"
Kyle

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

Stock 10-bolt. Clutch dumps and sticky tires forbidden

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Any rearend problems with posi or gears from these maniacically high-power cars? (Don't veen know if that's a word ... LOL!)