CAS owners past and present UNITE!!!!!
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CAS owners past and present UNITE!!!!!
Ok so now there are 3 people that are going to have CAS TT kits on their cars (myself included). I just thought it would be a good idea for the previous owners to share their experiences with the kits. What are the weak links? What repairs had to be done? Any gripes? Any install tips?
I plan on upgrading my kit to push sick HP, upwards of 1000rwhp if i can help it. Does anyone have any advice for me to achieve this? Jammer and i have already spoken and he gave me some great ideas and i may implement some. I plan on getting new wheels for my turbos. John Craig at Limit Engineering thinks i could use the housings that come with the turbos to push somewhere around 1300 fwhp with new compressor(t-60 stage 3) and turbine wheels. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as i am trying to get things as close to right as possible when i put the car back together(maybe by the end of this summer if i am lucky).
Greg
I plan on upgrading my kit to push sick HP, upwards of 1000rwhp if i can help it. Does anyone have any advice for me to achieve this? Jammer and i have already spoken and he gave me some great ideas and i may implement some. I plan on getting new wheels for my turbos. John Craig at Limit Engineering thinks i could use the housings that come with the turbos to push somewhere around 1300 fwhp with new compressor(t-60 stage 3) and turbine wheels. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as i am trying to get things as close to right as possible when i put the car back together(maybe by the end of this summer if i am lucky).
Greg
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I had one of the first kits. It fit prety well, headers did crack but easy to fix, i did it like once a year.
the bigger turbos are very tight, jammer may be able to tell you how to fit them.
put a K-member init, it will make it 100% easy to work on, and you will need to custom make a few hand tools to fit in places, i had a custom plug socket, a 14mm open end that i cut in 1/2 and a 10mm open end that i flatend one side.
good luck with it. it sure was fun!
the bigger turbos are very tight, jammer may be able to tell you how to fit them.
put a K-member init, it will make it 100% easy to work on, and you will need to custom make a few hand tools to fit in places, i had a custom plug socket, a 14mm open end that i cut in 1/2 and a 10mm open end that i flatend one side.
good luck with it. it sure was fun!
#4
How did the Turbo's sound on the CAS cars??? I am aware when it's installed it will be a lot more quiet then my car at the moment with the SLP LT's and ORY which will be replaced. Also can I keep my electric cutout?? One more question, will the T60's breathe well with my Borla Exhaust?? Thanks!
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the turbos in my car ran open all the time, i had cut outs and when i opened them, i never closed them! lol
the turbos threw the cutouts sounded UNREAL!!!! you could hear them 10 cars back! and when i jumped on it, it sounded like a GN on steriods.
i miss turbo so much, im putting one on my truck.
the turbos threw the cutouts sounded UNREAL!!!! you could hear them 10 cars back! and when i jumped on it, it sounded like a GN on steriods.
i miss turbo so much, im putting one on my truck.
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I had a custom true dual, it was done at a local shop. it came of the turbo went right into a cutout, then into an x-pipe threw 2 glass packs up over the axle and ended under the car, i wanted to keep it tucked up underneath so you couldnt see it from behind.
the best place for cut outs are as close to the turbo as possable.
my advice to the cas kit would be use the y pipe that comes with the kit, hook it to whatever you have and put 2 cutouts as close to the turbos as the y-pipe will let you
you'll be surprised how quiet it is coming right out of the turbo's, i loved it
the best place for cut outs are as close to the turbo as possable.
my advice to the cas kit would be use the y pipe that comes with the kit, hook it to whatever you have and put 2 cutouts as close to the turbos as the y-pipe will let you
you'll be surprised how quiet it is coming right out of the turbo's, i loved it
#9
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Originally Posted by disassembled
I plan on upgrading my kit to push sick HP, upwards of 1000rwhp if i can help it.
Greg
Greg
Anything is possible, but IMHO, you will have a very hard time getting anywhere close to 1000rwhp with the compressor and exhaust housings that need to be used with that system.
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Originally Posted by INTMD8
Anything is possible, but IMHO, you will have a very hard time getting anywhere close to 1000rwhp with the compressor and exhaust housings that need to be used with that system.
I am going to talk to Jammer to see exactly what he had with his setup. I obviously don't want 1000 hp on the street i just want to have it for the dyno and bragging rights According to John Craig at limit engineering he thinks just changing the wheels out and keeping the housings will give me an absolute max of 1250 or so fwhp. John Craig is the same person that worked with Jammer to get him some bigger turbos for his old CAS kit. Jammer also used John Craig to hook him up with turbos for his current rearmount twin setup. At one point i was contemplating stepping up to a T4 turbine but the amount of fabbing/altering that would need to be done would just be too much. I don't do any metal work and i don't really know too many people that would be willing/able to do it for me besides, i don't know if a t4 turbine would fit in the allocated space. This project is still in it's infancy as i have not even received the kit yet, my motor isn't built(waiting on a new block), and i've changed the goal from 450hp to 1000hp. My plans have changed sooo much from when i first bought my vortech kit so i just have to go one step at a time and right now i am still planning the entire engine/turbo setup. I am hoping to get any advice from anyone willing to explain what they think would work for me.
Greg
#11
I've got Jammer's old kit. Probably going with a C5R block and ported AFR's. Hoping for 1100 plus hp right now on high octane. once that's accomplished I'll probably talk to Limit about maybe going bigger.
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I have a kit, one of the first. I am building around it now. It made sick power on good octane and on alky. Right around 680rwhp. I pushed the stock internals as far as they would go. It held up for a while. I will now be pushing the kit to around 20 or so psi. Not immediatley, though. I am going to get the radiators and FMIC in place before I really see what she'll do. I had thoughts of dumping it but they were very short. Good luck to all that have and are getting this. You will have your NIGHTMARES but get through them and you will be ok. Angelo
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Greg, if you want 1000, I say go to it, but have 15-20k, alot of patience and become frindly with a fabricator. If you want 600, just install your kit and add some C16 to your tank and dial it up to 14 lbs. That kinda HP doesnt come easy.
A few points: To make above 750 I think you need to be thinking BS3 of Gen7... but I do beleive your goals can be obtained, or close to it, if the the sum of the parts all adds up. One thing I can say is, if the peak #'s arent there..then Id bet mid range power is..it can be hard to have it all, so your build-up is important. Plan for the right turbos for your set-up. My old turbos had me in the 79% efficiency range at high boost according to the maps.
My headers never cracked...but I refused to wrap them like Noyz did, and that may have played a part. I also had many less miles.
My cam was designed around my rpm goals, heads, car weight,...and so on...Mt turbos were based on my cubic inches, amount of expected boost, flow, cam ...lalala... The turbos came at the end, after all other aspects were known... and John mapped me some custom turbos. 56mm Compressor and 76mm turbines if I remember correctly. My new ones, which are still T3/To4E hybrids, have WAY different wheels than my old ones. My point being, for the best chance of reaching your goals, plan well...and pray. Dont skip the small stuff like Incolnel EX Valves, H-11 or l-19 head bolts etc. Tranny better be up to the task..remember , my newer stage II 4l60e blew on the dyno. If an M6, I have no ide how well this kit will work on that, or if it makes much difference.
This is not an easy kit to play with. A larger frame upgrade is not possible without frame/fenderwell mod. As it is, my To4E housing was less than 1/32 of an inch from my block. And there was a hole cut in my frame/fenderwell for the other side of the To4e housing (only on passenger side). If your willing to fabricate like a junkie cooks rock, Im sure it can be done in an afternoon. I think its almost mandatory to have a tubular K-member for sanity reasons. I have the intake cone trimmed on my turbos just to clear the motor mounts and leave room to clamp on my screen filter.
After your done spending money and swearing, you will have a smile on your face that will hurt for days. Good luck guys, I dont think theres a better street car kit out there yet. I hired out for the initial install (thanks ape)..but then had it off and back on myself.
Lastly, I Do not beleive a single 3" "y" pipe exhaust is sufficient ...thats just my opinion. In the words of Corky Bell "when it comes to exhaust after the turbo, backpressure is evil". Dont think thats an issue in my new set up see below. I sure hope I can make some power with this wacky set-up.
.
A few points: To make above 750 I think you need to be thinking BS3 of Gen7... but I do beleive your goals can be obtained, or close to it, if the the sum of the parts all adds up. One thing I can say is, if the peak #'s arent there..then Id bet mid range power is..it can be hard to have it all, so your build-up is important. Plan for the right turbos for your set-up. My old turbos had me in the 79% efficiency range at high boost according to the maps.
My headers never cracked...but I refused to wrap them like Noyz did, and that may have played a part. I also had many less miles.
My cam was designed around my rpm goals, heads, car weight,...and so on...Mt turbos were based on my cubic inches, amount of expected boost, flow, cam ...lalala... The turbos came at the end, after all other aspects were known... and John mapped me some custom turbos. 56mm Compressor and 76mm turbines if I remember correctly. My new ones, which are still T3/To4E hybrids, have WAY different wheels than my old ones. My point being, for the best chance of reaching your goals, plan well...and pray. Dont skip the small stuff like Incolnel EX Valves, H-11 or l-19 head bolts etc. Tranny better be up to the task..remember , my newer stage II 4l60e blew on the dyno. If an M6, I have no ide how well this kit will work on that, or if it makes much difference.
This is not an easy kit to play with. A larger frame upgrade is not possible without frame/fenderwell mod. As it is, my To4E housing was less than 1/32 of an inch from my block. And there was a hole cut in my frame/fenderwell for the other side of the To4e housing (only on passenger side). If your willing to fabricate like a junkie cooks rock, Im sure it can be done in an afternoon. I think its almost mandatory to have a tubular K-member for sanity reasons. I have the intake cone trimmed on my turbos just to clear the motor mounts and leave room to clamp on my screen filter.
After your done spending money and swearing, you will have a smile on your face that will hurt for days. Good luck guys, I dont think theres a better street car kit out there yet. I hired out for the initial install (thanks ape)..but then had it off and back on myself.
Lastly, I Do not beleive a single 3" "y" pipe exhaust is sufficient ...thats just my opinion. In the words of Corky Bell "when it comes to exhaust after the turbo, backpressure is evil". Dont think thats an issue in my new set up see below. I sure hope I can make some power with this wacky set-up.
.
Last edited by Jammer; 01-17-2005 at 07:39 PM.
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I will call my engine builder and find out exactly what components are being used and post them up here so everyone can criticize and give me their opinions. I will also at that time post up my current plans from suspension to tranny to stereo, okay maybe not the stereo but the important functional stuff .
Greg
Greg
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Hey if you don't shut up i am going to get my warriors to kick your ***!
Greg
Greg
Originally Posted by badeSST
Not to hijack but this is the funniest thread title I've seen in a while.lol Sounds like something out of the warriors.
#19
Is my Borla exhaust sufficent with the CAS or will I get a lot of backpressure?? I am also thinking about getting a second electric cutout so what do you guys think?? Also should I have my Borla plate opened or keep it closed??
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Originally Posted by TACruiser
Is my Borla exhaust sufficent with the CAS or will I get a lot of backpressure?? I am also thinking about getting a second electric cutout so what do you guys think?? Also should I have my Borla plate opened or keep it closed??
I have the "Y" pipe that comes with the kit and would sell it to you if your kit didn't come with one and you wanted to stick with your old muffler. Personally, i would ditch any traditional muffler i had (meaning 1 inlet to 2 outlet in the case of the F-body) and go with a 2.5 to 3 inch true dual setup or a dual cutout setup. I plan on doing what jammer is using on his rear mount twin setup: true duals with an X or H pipe design(not too sure which would be best in this application) and the exhuast coming over both sides of the rear end.
Greg