The bug has bit and it's time for boost boost. Perhaps some of you noticed my "Prepping for 200MPH" post in the Handling & Braking forum... well the idea is to build up a topender, safe and fast as possible. Aerodynamics is key, but so is a reliable engine (among other components). The SS started smoking again and well I dont know if it is the rings, scavenge pump or turbos leaking... hell it could be a simple PVC problem. No matter, it is time to build the shortblock and I'll deal with whatever else I find when I find it. I need to maintain streetability and yet be able to open it up on the big end for 20-30-40 seconds at a time. I dunno for how long really, I hit 140 from highway speeds in what seemed like 6 seconds the other day and it was still pulling strong but. I wasn't counting so it could have been much longer. All I know is that it was huge fun.

So, target 600 - 700 hp, pump gas, daily driver. The Incon kit should do well for this powerlevel so I'm considering upgrading the weak link - the bottom end. here is what I want with it this time 'round.

rebuild the factory short block
Forged rods / pistons 9:1 compression target
Stud kit for heads / mains
Stock Crank
Ported Oil Pump (or ???)
Port match / cleanup the factory heads
New roller rockers, pushrods, lifters
Cam (this gets tricky) 225@050/.550 and 112-4* LS

Perhaps I need to get the forged crank but with several people apparently running in or above the 1K HP range... damn thing can take some abuse. Hell, I hope it will handle what I want to do. Don't know if I'm being too optimistic... As with any project like this, there is a million questions and I'll know all the answers after I've been there The big ones on my mind are:

What rods / pistons should I go with? I saw Diamond and Lunati on ls1speed.com but everyone makes a combo that should work..

Will the cam support the horsepower level I'm looking to achieve while keeping the incons in "the map" and how large of lift can I go for a daily driver... I dont mind maintenance too much (like changing springs every 25K or what not)...

The "Maximum Boost" guy says that a turbo should not be on the boost for more than 20 seconds or so... can't find the reference right now but I imagine he's talking about creating excessive heat. What to do about that?

Finally, TIA. This site has hit the top of my bookmarks even over pirate4x4.com

 

how intrested are you in keeping AC?

 

well engine shouldnt be difficult, low CR with forged pistons and rods and you are there.
id try to get the biggest turbos you can fit with your incon kit., i would also look into a better set of intercoolers, i think that will be important in running alot of boost for an extended amount of time.
the more HP you have the faster you can get up there. i cant remember what the highest dynoing incon, probably harlans at around 700rwhp.

what gears are you going with, what are you doing for suspension?

 

well for now the incon will have to get me by. I want to do a FMIC and fix the BOV's (currently after the MAF) and change some other stuff but I really dont want to screw up the kit while it has any resale value. With the mods I'm thinking of I might as well start collecting 321 and completely redoing the plumbing.... Maybe for now I can find some Incon Gt37's if compressor heat becomes a problem.

SUspension wise I'm looking at all tubular components, full cage tying in front to rear and "stealth as possible", floating 9" with undetermined gear set - getting the calculator on my site updated so I can plug in numbers and look at it the easy way - anyway the 9 is the poor mans quick change isn't it.

My biggest problem is going to be aerodynamics. what to do there is still somewhat of a mystery

 

Aerodynamics are the least of your problem. First you have to get the thing built. All i can say is make your your T-Tops are latched and locked. I have been to a couple of the 200mph runs and i have seen T-top a go flying. Kinda cool but it will scare the crap out of you.

 

yeah the t-tops are a bytch. i like em and hate em both.

 

on a 63 degree day, I locked my 3.23 geared car in 3rd with the converter locked and did a run from 60 to 150mph which was at my redline of 7000. My IAT went from 66 to 133 deg. Now this is measured BEFORE the alky so I dunno how much the alky is dropping the IAT. This is with the stock incon kit and my low compression 348 @ 15psi.

 

Yaa T-tops are nice in the summer but a bitch in the rain.

I would then start with the suspention unless your motor is almost shot. Do you have a A4 or M6. You are going to need a Rear end reguard less. If you have an A4 you better find a realy and i mean realy good tranny shop that will do warrenty work even if you car is not stock. If you have an M6 you are a little better off. You can just have new sincros put in and a steal 3/4 shift fork and it sould be good to go. As for the clutch that is up to you. I like the twin disc Mcloud but not all people do.

 

Yeah its a M6 that's gonna get lots of attention, the rear will most likely be a full floater 9". Chassis and mechanicals I have done before in one form or another. getting it to stay on the ground without wasting a lot of horsepower on drag will be a new experience.

I'm thinking I may create some blanks for the t-tops so I can have a little more room for the cage. I'm 6'5" and need all the space I can get.

 

Yaa you are a little tall to be in an f-body.

 

Ya man sounds like a sweet plan, I am 6'4" and my knees are up beside the steering wheel when im drivin.

 

For the seating postiion and being big and alll, I fit suprisingly well! I have done a couple 6 hour drives and my legs dont cramp up or anything like that. My knees are mid way up the steering wheel IIRC. See the look on my face, I'm pretty comfy:

 

That picture rules... haha

 

TTExpress There is a mcloud twin disc for sale in the parts for sale section.

 

A incon TT SS pushing for 200 - DAAM I love this post.

 

It's a fun post... lets hope I'm not

 

02 camaro
Drag Coefficient:0.340
Frontal Area:21.60


I think you only need 400 450 rw to hit 200mph.
Id say build for 600rw for good measure.
In case a mustang tries to pass!!!!!!!


put a k$n front spoiler w/ sheetmetal extention, I wouldent drop the car more then 1", small bumps @ 200 are big.
Save the duby for the second run.

btw z06-
Drag Coefficient:0.310
Frontal Area:19.30

See smokemup.com

 

 

I wouldn't go 9:1 on a daily driver, frankly. I'd shoot for 9.5:1 at a minimum, or at least choose a cam that gives you very good dynamic compression. But when you're out of boost the motor will not run as well, especially with the timing you'll have programmed.

Remember: static compression is the highest absolute compression achievable with the motor. You can always reduce your CR by going with a longer intake duration on your cam.

 

hmmmm, need a cam guy!

I had planned on 9.5 for streetability but listed 9.0 as a compromise between 8.5 - 9.5... I dont know from experience but 9.0 should not kill the engine on the street.

current thinking (changes daily if not hourly) is to put a set of LQ9's on and up the boost a little, check the tune and see where it goes from there. Want to avoid alchy or anything else that requires extra maintenance to control detonation so I will work the chambers / cc before bolting em on to see what the limits are. hmmmm, better get those rods and pistons...

Also it should help to get some more air through the IC's with a little selective trimming and duct work... anyone have pics of mods like that? I said "cut" and my car is beautiful right now