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What boost to run....

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Old 01-22-2005, 06:29 PM
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Default What boost to run....

im new here I have a 1998 TransAm Ram Air...Its my daily driver...i wanna keep it 100% daily driver friendly but i want it to go fast ehehe...im Ordering a D-1SC system from ProCharger...what boost should i run to get into the 11's and if possible high or low 10's as a street car, i will upgrade and buy anything that needs to be changed but i dont wanna do too much stuff...can i get into 11's...10's without doing much?

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Old 01-22-2005, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TransAmNerd
im new here I have a 1998 TransAm Ram Air...Its my daily driver...i wanna keep it 100% daily driver friendly but i want it to go fast ehehe...im Ordering a D-1SC system from ProCharger...what boost should i run to get into the 11's and if possible high or low 10's as a street car, i will upgrade and buy anything that needs to be changed but i dont wanna do too much stuff...can i get into 11's...10's without doing much?

Do search and see how much $$$ alot of use have spent....... If you want to get into FI and make alot of power your going to need $10K in the motor and blower alone....... then $3-4 in the drivetrain to have it hold the power.... It takes alot......
Kyle
Old 01-22-2005, 08:24 PM
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yep what kyle, said also you will NEVER be happy with FI you will always want more all because of a "crack" like boost addiction

later
Gary
Old 01-23-2005, 09:09 AM
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Thanx for the help...so should i hold back from buying the Blower and fix up my engine instead and later on buy the supercharger or buy it and keep it at the factory boost setting?...i already have the money for the Procharger but if needed i can use it for other stuff
Old 01-23-2005, 12:12 PM
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Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick 2.

10 second car + "don't wanna do too much stuff" + daily driver do not belong in the same sentence. You gotta pay to play.
Old 01-23-2005, 12:45 PM
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yea i figured i was asking for too much... fast and reliable...if i have to spend money i dont wanna spend it again and again for having an unreliable setup..
Old 01-23-2005, 02:20 PM
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You are where I was 2 1/2 years ago. I was going to put the D1SC tuner kit pulleyed to make 10 psi on my stock motor. I planned to simply put in ARP rod bolts and figured I was good to go. I was told that I would need to pull the motor to do this, so figured if I have to pull the motor, I might as well put a new one in. I put the supercharger in the garage (where it still sits today) and began accumulating all the parts I need to reach my goal of mid-low 10s and 650-700 rwhp. I now have all the stuff in my sig and more, and will be installing the new motor in the next month or so (still have a few parts to get). I have spent over $20k, but I built it for reliability as well as power. I should be able to reach my power and speed goals without pushing any of the components to their limitations (except maybe the tranny which will be upgraded also). If you want big power, wait, save your money, accumlate parts as you can and do it right the first time and you can drive your ride in the mean time. If you rush it, and make too much power too soon, your car will spend more time in the garage than on the road. If it is your daily driver, and you want to go FI, at the very least you will need a rearend, and if you keep the boost level at 7-8 psi max, a conservative tune, and the rpms below 6500, you might get by without even upgrading the rod bolts. At this level mid-high 11s are doable, anything beyond that and you might be riding the bus.

Good luck and check out the quote at the bottom of my sig,
Tom
Old 01-23-2005, 02:45 PM
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Get the ATI 8 rib D-1SC, intank fuel pump and 60 lbs injectors and u will be fine running 8psi on a daily driver car. It's not as hard as some people here make it sound. You can always forged your engine later on and up the boost. That is my plan anyway later on. Now if u want to run low 11's high 10's u will need a good clutch and rear end to launch hard on with some sticky tires.
Old 01-23-2005, 06:45 PM
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thanx for the help everyone
Old 01-23-2005, 06:49 PM
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what happens when a engine is forged..? sorry for the newbie questions but i know as much about cars as i do about rocket science
Old 01-23-2005, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TransAmNerd
what happens when a engine is forged..? sorry for the newbie questions but i know as much about cars as i do about rocket science
That's talking about the internal components. Most parts that come OEM in motors are cast parts. A forged motor means you replace the internals with much stronger forged or billet parts so that it can take more boost/horsepower.
Old 01-23-2005, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by eviltwins
That's talking about the internal components. Most parts that come OEM in motors are cast parts. A forged motor means you replace the internals with much stronger forged or billet parts so that it can take more boost/horsepower.

im guessing this is expensive
Old 01-23-2005, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TransAmNerd
im guessing this is expensive
cast parts are melted and poured into a mould, forged means a piece is cut directly from a solid piece of metal. A metal object melted and cooled multiple times will eventually lose a great majority of its original strength...

if you are worried about $$$, wait until you dont need to...
Old 01-23-2005, 07:50 PM
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Cam/Heads/pushrods/timing set/gaskets....get into mid-upper 11's no problem...less than 6k....drives near perfect.
Old 01-23-2005, 07:56 PM
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You don't want to buy what you don't need. By a F1-R and crank it up. Then you will know what else you need to buy.



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