Intake for D1SC...other than intake hat. Size Filter?
03-21-2005, 08:31 AM
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Intake for D1SC...other than intake hat. Size Filter? I bought a used intake hat, and am not to sure I want to run this setup. Just doesn't seem all that great and reliable of a piece to use. What are my options here?
I plan on just getting a large cone filter from PepBoys or someone. Any recomendations on size of filter would help as well?
Brian
I plan on just getting a large cone filter from PepBoys or someone. Any recomendations on size of filter would help as well?
Brian
03-21-2005, 10:51 AM
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I upgraded my P1 to a D1 and kept using the stock ATI box, flexible hose, & filter. After the motor & SC upgrades it dyno'd 540ish RWHP @10psi, took off the entire box, hose, & filter assembly and dyno'd 630ish RWHP @14psi. The intake opening on the P1/D1 measures 3.5", the opening on the ATI box measures approx 2.5".... that's no good 
For the filter size I followed the calculations on the K&N site but they really don't have a formula that accounts for FI... bottom line is go as big as you can fit with the filter but I think the rest of the system is very restrictive.
I'm looking into making my own custom system, the box will be over all much larger and have a 4" diameter flange, using a 4" pressure rated flexible tube which mates up to a K&N filter that has a 4" inside diameter flange, should have it finished in a week or so....
FWIW... Here is K&N's info, (if you use a cone filter just add the bottom size to the top size and divide to find the average)..........
Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.
......CID x RPM
A= ------------
........20,839
A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power
Example: A 350 CID Chevy engine with a horsepower peak at 5,500 rpm.
.......350 x 5,500
A= -------------- = 92.4 square inches
..........20,839
Brian
For the filter size I followed the calculations on the K&N site but they really don't have a formula that accounts for FI... bottom line is go as big as you can fit with the filter but I think the rest of the system is very restrictive.I'm looking into making my own custom system, the box will be over all much larger and have a 4" diameter flange, using a 4" pressure rated flexible tube which mates up to a K&N filter that has a 4" inside diameter flange, should have it finished in a week or so....
FWIW... Here is K&N's info, (if you use a cone filter just add the bottom size to the top size and divide to find the average)..........
Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.
......CID x RPM
A= ------------
........20,839
A = effective filtering area
CID = cubic inch displacement
RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power
Example: A 350 CID Chevy engine with a horsepower peak at 5,500 rpm.
.......350 x 5,500
A= -------------- = 92.4 square inches
..........20,839
Brian
03-21-2005, 06:36 PM
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Looks like I'll be trying to find a nice silicone elbow to mount up to the blower inlet and then run a pipe directly to the large filter!
98BLKMOBILE and imos-ss 01 , Thanx for the info!
98BLKMOBILE and imos-ss 01 , Thanx for the info!
03-22-2005, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 98BLKMOBILE
After the motor & SC upgrades it dyno'd 540ish RWHP @10psi, took off the entire box, hose, & filter assembly and dyno'd 630ish RWHP @14psi.
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03-22-2005, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
wow 90hp by taking out the box assy, that's crazy.
03-22-2005, 09:34 PM
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Yup... lost 90RWHP and 4psi... you would think that maybe because the car is FI having smaller box opening, tubes, or filters wouldn't effect it so much but apparently it does!!! If putting on a bigger box, hose, and filter helps I will let you know....
03-22-2005, 10:35 PM
#12
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
So you took the hat and filter of the blower and it dyno'd 90rwhp and saw 4 more psi?!!
Brian now is forming a new intake system that will hopefully put us with less than 1 psi pressure drop.
03-22-2005, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Back to back runs(I did them)
Brian now is forming a new intake system that will hopefully put us with less than 1 psi pressure drop.
Brian now is forming a new intake system that will hopefully put us with less than 1 psi pressure drop.
Try to post pictures for the intake system.
04-01-2005, 07:12 AM
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No 
I tried pulling the vacuum forms last night and failed. The draw is too deep.... time for plan B, I've got to make a male casting then vacuum form over it, that will be a lot easier to do, I was hoping the female mold would work but it didn't pan out. If you could fit a 90 degree 4" elbow in there you would not need this part but the only way it will fit is if you cut the radiator brackets and relocate it about 3" forward. I did not want to do that so I will keep plugging away on this new part. Give me about 1 week.
Brian
I tried pulling the vacuum forms last night and failed. The draw is too deep.... time for plan B, I've got to make a male casting then vacuum form over it, that will be a lot easier to do, I was hoping the female mold would work but it didn't pan out. If you could fit a 90 degree 4" elbow in there you would not need this part but the only way it will fit is if you cut the radiator brackets and relocate it about 3" forward. I did not want to do that so I will keep plugging away on this new part. Give me about 1 week.Brian
