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FI Engine Break In?

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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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Default FI Engine Break In?

I am currently in the process of rebuilding my engine, new pistons, cam, everything. How long should I break in the engine before I hook the blower back up? Also the cam I am putting in requires computer modifications, how much will this affect breaking in the motor? Thanks
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 12:13 AM
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Well make sure you have the rings good and broke in before putting boost to it imo, at least 500 miles (Hey, thats about 1 weekend right?)
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 09:13 AM
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Give W2W a call and ask Kurt what they do...then post back so that we can all know!
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott 98Z M6
Give W2W a call and ask Kurt what they do...then post back so that we can all know!


Keith
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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i dont think you have to remove the blower, because on a turbo car you break the engine in with it still install. I would hate not to install all that plumbing with the engine back in place
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 10:33 AM
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I understand that you would want to break the motor in to let the rings seal, but what if you only swap a cam? Can you break the cam in with FI enabled? I don't see why not but I just wanted to make sure.

thanx
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 10:46 AM
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All that is needed to break the rings in is a couple of hard accelerations and deccelerations( not brakes on slow down ).

Keith
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 12:14 PM
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I've seen some tuners (top rated) post that the rings settle within a few few minutes and other say you want a 500 mile break in.

Mark
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mdhmi
I've seen some tuners (top rated) post that the rings settle within a few few minutes and other say you want a 500 mile break in.

Mark

I think most of that has to do with how the rings are timed and how the cylinder walls are finished. Not that I'm an engine builder or anything, but just from what I've read. Hell, I think some of the top level race teams don't even do more than turn the motors over on the dyno a little bit to make sure it runs ok, if anything. Then again, they have bigger budgets than us average joes.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1290


Keith
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 03:36 PM
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15 minutes of idle + oil change, then hit the dyno. 10K miles later I'm at 1% or less leakdown in every cylinder at no less than 650 RWHP the entire time, total seal gapless rings. Last motor I built was my old notch with an S-trim on a mild 302 rebuild, after 10K miles at a bit over 400 RWHP it was seeing 4-5% leakdown across the board and lower compression numbers. I'm always going to break in motors on the dyno now.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by eviltwins
15 minutes of idle + oil change, then hit the dyno. 10K miles later I'm at 1% or less leakdown in every cylinder at no less than 650 RWHP the entire time, total seal gapless rings. Last motor I built was my old notch with an S-trim on a mild 302 rebuild, after 10K miles at a bit over 400 RWHP it was seeing 4-5% leakdown across the board and lower compression numbers. I'm always going to break in motors on the dyno now.

Was this on the engine dyno? Or was it in the car on the rollers?? What kind of work did you do on the dyno? Did you put it through various cycles, like a pull from 2k-4k, then 2300-4500, 3k-5k, ect, or something like that? Gapless rings are good stuff. Definately a piece that is worth it in any motor. Question is, are they making gapless rings for Gen III SBs yet? I don't know, I've never researched that question, though I'd have a hard time believing they didn't.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 09:58 PM
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i was always told to put 500 miles on them so i take mine through the canyon we have here to keep the rpms changing. i take the boost to about 0 and work it up with just short bursts.
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