So here's my dilemma. I want to make 450 - 500 RWHP (preferably 500 ) in the next 6 months to a year (time is based on financial constraints). I think the best way is to go is forced induction. The problem is I currently live in Germany and getting access to a dyno tune is probably not going to happen very easily and to make matters worse any significant internal mods to the motor are not likely to happen either.

So my question is: Is there an FI system (not interested in juice) that I can run on a stock tune and stock internals that will make that kind of RWHP safely?

I know without a tune, I'll be leaving a lot on the table, but I just want to make sure I won't tear anything up (of course I know there are no guarantees), because I'll be here for at least another two years and want to make it back to the US before I mess with the internals or PCM (unless anyone knows a good mail order PCM company ).

My car (99 SS M6) has only these few mods right now:

Flowmaster catback (I know, I know - it came on the car, don't blame me)
TSP Carbon Fiber Lid
K&N Filter
Free Ram Air Mod
Smooth bellows
ASP Pulley
Pro 5.0

I'm running the stock 10bolt with 3.42s and stock size 275/40/17 tires.

The car is mostly used on the street (of course that includes the Autobahn at about 130mph (3200 rpm) cruising speed - I'd really like it if 6th gear could pull over 140 but I don't have the pony's, need 5th gear to go that high then its too many RPMs) About once a month I run it on the 1320 (would you belive they run a 1/4 mile and not a metric thing). No hard launches, I use real street tires not DRs or slicks, I know the 10 bolt can't hang with that kind of power. I also like to autoX, which explains why Juice is not an option.

Any advice would be great - I mean I really need everyones help so I can show up these AMG and 959 owners over here on the autobahn and make them fear some real American muscle!

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post!!

 

You don't nessecarily have put the car on the rollers to find out what kind of power your making (estmates can be made as well as get a g-tech pro to measure 1/4 mile times unless you have access to a drag strip of course. HP Tuners allows for Wide Band O2 sensors (if memory serves correctly) so you should be able to get your air/fuel ratio safely knocked down. Also the scan tool on vs. 1.x does let you lock in your long term and short term fuel trims. Needless to say if you're looking for 500 RWHP, you really need to tune it some how. You can always try the mail order route (PCMs for less?) and tell them what you have and get it done that way. If you are concerned about making it live on boost, this is probably your only choice. Good luck.

 

I hadn't thought about a G-tech. I guess that might work. We do have a drag strip around here, it slightly up hill, but it does the job. So you don't think I'd have to worry about the internals though?

 

Ok, so I read all of your post now. Good that you have a 1/4 mile to rip on. 10 bolt will live for a while, as long as you don't launch on it real hard. First, what kind of altitude do you see? If you're way above sea level, look @ going turbo. As I said above, you really need to tune. It's simplely a given when you go FI if you are smart. I also forgot to mention that HP Tuners also uses the OEM knock sensors to help tune the car with out putting it on the dyno. Just issolate your cells, dial out the knock, nail down your STFT and LTFTs and you should be pretty well good to go. Of course the WB O2 helps as well. It's pretty bad when you roll around some high dollar cars, spank them @ half the cost and make them go :wtf: that's not supposed to happen. Way to represent! You over there in the US Mil?

 

500 RWHP is about @ the limit on @ least stock rod bolts and pistons. You need the tune to make sure you control detionation and not fry the pistons. Breaking rod bolts = breaking rods which could = thrown rod and destroied block. Not good. Upgrades @ this or above become cheaper insurance (notice cheapER not cheap). If you have a 1/4 mi, don't bother with the G-tech, I was only mentioning that to estimate ETs and trap speed, which estimates HP if you know vehicle weight.

 

Great info, thanks. I was leaning toward the turbo anyway and I'm pretty sure we are quite a bit above sea level - although I'm not sure by how much. I'm over here with the Air Force and theres actually quite a few f-body's as well, although no one that I'm aware of running FI. I'll admit the Phamspeed budget kit is what got me started thinking about all of this - but I guess thats going to change based on the latest post. I think this loks like the right route to go, I probably just need to keep the boost down and make mid 400s and worry about cracking the 500 mark after I do the internals. I think that should still be enough to make a 959 flinch.

 

Mid 400s to 5 flat will be enough to make the 959s be like "um, do I need a tune up?" Good luck to ya, hit us up when you get back in the states, especially if you get stationed @ Dover or Andrews AFB (I'm an east coast boy).

 

Being over seas you probably need a 100% complete kit, I think STS is really the only manufacture that can send you everything you need in one box. They can send you a complete kit with a tuned-computer so you don't have to tune there in Germany. Their mail-order tune worked really well on my car.

Contact Brady@ststurbo.com, he hooked up a buddy of mine that was out in the Gulf. Supposedly he set him up at cost for serving in the military.

 

That's cool of them! The PTK kits come as fully complete kits too. Minus tuning. But like I said, using HP Tuners with a WB O2 and the knock sensors, you should be ok to get close, just make sure you don't run the hell out of the timing in the car and in any cell where you have knock, add fuel and pull timing.

 

Wow thats great about hookin up the military. Only problem I was really looking for a front mount I have my heart set on a custom true dual side exit exhaust so the STS would kill that plan. But I'll definately keep my options open.

 

Well, if you run a single turbo you will not be having a "dual exhaust." Both banks feed into some sort of arraignment (how ever one bank is crossed over to join the other to collect into the turbine). Yes you can spit it to be able to run it back and out the tail, but it's not nessecary from a performance stand point, only asthetics.

 

Damn, see I didn't realize that. Man that makes things really tuough now. I'll have to give that quite abit more thought. If I went supercharger though, I'd still be able to go true dual right?

 

Yeah, but it really isn't that much of an issue, that trade off of it IMO is better, but a blower would allow you to run true duals. Like I said, several people have mentioned splitting the downpipe back into a y pipe to gain ground clearance, so there's really no reason you couldn't run true duals from there. You wouldn't need to run an x-pipe because the exhaust gases have already been merged going into the turbine, so it would do you no good to change the pulses for scavaging or cool EGTs post turbine. You could always run a GMMG chambered exhaust if you wanna keep the dual outlets @ the rear of the car or you could just run a single pipe all the way down and split it @ the rear of the car like the factory does it.

 

Heads and Cam will meet your goals for way less money. Add a 150 shot on top of that and you'll be the man around there.

 

But potential is definately more for when he gets back to the states. Heads and cam on auto-x corses are good too but if going with the phamspeed budget kit...no problems hitting that # without too much $ or effort. Plus, later upgrades can become easier. Definately do what you want, but you're doing the right thing and getting your facts first.