So here is A&A's 9#/91 octane tune (this is a 50 RWHP increase from the original tune !)..not too bad for a pair of turbos barely operating within their efficiency range. A pair of TE44s will do better at this boost level. But the truth of the matter is, the PT52s don't spool so hard that they produce a bunch of useless tq at low rpm..they just come smooth and pull very hard, very controllable and very driveable. I feel comfortable letting a friend or the wife drive this car because of this.

When Andy gets the load cell for his Dynojet, it will simulate street conditions , making for much more accurate tuning.



Here is the Sunoco PUMP gas (I did buy it at Unocal 76, $4.50 per gallon). 100octane 16lbs. This run was a nice run, but it was a hot run. A couple of earlier cold runs started out making a little more power (4000 rpms) but we had to pull out to make some tuning adjustments..so buy the time we got the full pulls things were hot. Andy wanted to let it cool down and rerun it, but we ran out of time. I was very satisfied considering 12 people (customers) were hanging around and Andy had to meet with them (3 other cars on the dyno today besides my 30 dyno pulls)...plus he bought us all Pizza...cool. So once again a big thanks to Andy for taking the time to give me two Tunes and get my car to a point where I can close the chapter.



One thing that I need to work out. At 17lbs of boost the car was missing between 5000-6500rpms. Here is some data.
0 KR
11.x AFR
17# boost

I am using the NGK TR6s at whatever they came pre-gapped at. I think .034???

What would cause the car to miss in the upper rpms under higher boost??? When I turned the boost down to 16# it stopped missing.

Could the plugs be getting the spark blown out? Could it be the coil packs or wires getting hot?

I want to do some 17-19# runs next time.
Thanks

 

Do you have enough fuel for up top? maybe there needs a specific tune for the higher rpm at more boost, maybe timing was off. did you have a dyno graph of the run that you were missing on?

other then those factors, the setup sounds pretty bad ***. congrats on the setup, hopefully ill get mine together quite soon and can compare numbers, even though im gnona be doin a single turbo setup.

 

Bad ***.................... This is there first kit made correct?? And the first kit to hit the rollers also????
Kyle

 

Probably need to gap the plugs down alittle. Do you have the stainless kit or mildsteel. I am going to buy this kit after i sell my supra. How was the fitment?

Eric

 

Nice numbers! I'm surprised to see the numbers from the C5 kit before the F-body kit.

 

This is the first and only kit in the country right now running around. Fitment is great.

I don't have the graph for the runs that were missing.

There were 2 tunes done, one for low boost and 91 octane and the other for Hi Boost and Hi Octane.

When I cranked the boost up to 16# it made the run in the hi hp run in the dyno graph above. When I cranked the boost up over 16# it would miss.

As far as Fuel Pressure was concerned, I took the Boost Reference off because it would go to 70psi and then back off to 64psi..this happened with the 9lbs run as well as a 14, 15, 16, and 17# run. It was making tuning a little more challenging vs having a steady pressure the entire time.

With the boost reference off, the Fuel Pressure stayed @ 62 PSI on every run @ every boost level we tried. I hooked up a good Fuel Pressure guage (not a pod guage) to the rail and the only thing I did was watch Fuel Pressure on the hi boost runs....it never flinched from 62psi throughout the entire RPM range.

 

Yup, Kevin was our donor car. His car turned out great and the #'s look good as well for being such a mild daily driven setup. Also A&A's dyno is on the conservative side. Their are other kits out there already and they are being finished up and installed as we speak. We even have one going on a monster setup 400+ci motor with Twin 63's....hehe. We should have some 1000+rwhp #'s soon enough.

Jose

 

Nice numbers!

My TR8's are gapped at .030, and I run truck coils along with the BS3. I have made anywhere from 17 to 21psi on dyno pulls.

 

Eric as for the mild steel, for a daily driven car we suggest mild steel. You can get the kit in stainless if you wish, but I don't recommend it for a street car. Also we warranty out hotparts for life.

Jose

 

Do you have the same screen name on sf? I remember you selling youre supra. What kind of actual wait time for a kit? THnaks
Eric

 

Yep I have the same name on SF, but I'm not selling my Supra....hmm. The kits are 2-3 month wait time.

Jose

 

How much different are the TR8s over the TR7s?

Why the Truck Coils over the standard F/Y Body Coils?

I don't have BS3..stock PCM

Thanks

 

I thought I saw you selling a white one awhile ago(more than a year)? Maby not. Good to see a familar face on here.

Eric

 

Yeah not I, I haven't owned a white Supra. Mine is a black MK4.

Jose

 

What is the cars fuel setup??
Pump? Pumps? Injectors????
Stock PCM????
Kyle

 

Until Kevin gets here I can help with some of the questions. He is on the stock PCM, 60lb MT's, Walbro pump, Kenne Bell booster and MDMC fuel return ( Kevin correct me if I am wrong on any of this). His setup is very mild, but still makes BIG #'s. I would love to see this thing going down the track....hehe.

 

Awesome setup.

 

Stock cubes? Heads/Cam? Awesome #'s!

 

Stock cube motor, forged internals. Not sure on the heads/cam. I will let him tackle all the rest of the question. I don't want to misquote him.

Jose

 

Jose got all the info correct on my setup. I can expand on the parts.

I didn't start off intending on doing a forged motor for FI so I would do some things differently and will explain as I go.

The motor
LS6 346cid (stock crank) 8.94:1 CR
Lunati Pro Billet 6.125" Rods
Diamond -2cc Valve Relief Pistons
ARP Studs
Katech Oil Pump
Cam is a CompXer 224/224 .581 114lsa
Rollmaster Double Roller
LS6 Stage II (77cc) Heads by West Coast Racing Cylinder Heads
Cometic MLS .065" Head Gaskets
SPEC Stage IV Clutch (I will go Stage V next time)

If I was building the motor over again, I most likely would have went with a bigger dish and kept the chambers a little smaller..however if a time came when I wanted to switch back to NA..it is definetly easier to do when the CR is lowered by using larger CC heads. But that would only be if I chose to sell the car and part everything out. Which I don't see happening right now anytime soon.

Either way I would have used the Diamond FI pistons, which are essentially the same as my existing Diamond Pistons, except they have supports around the the skirt (makes them a little stronger).

But so far so good.

I used an in expensive STS boost controller that I bought off of Bill at TRTurbo. It worked great for $140.00. It just has a manual dial that you set the boost at, then you activate it with an electronic switch. I located the switch right underneath 4th gear by the traction control button.