ss01layinwheel

I put a d1-sc on my car about a month ago and was shooting the dipstick out. i then discovered the line that goes from the p/s valve cover to the throttle body and said to myself "well theres the reason you moron" haha.i removed the line and got a breather in place of the oil cap. things were all well and good for about a week. then today the breather loaded up with oil and was spraying all over the place so i removed it and put the fil cap back on. now i am spraying tons of oil out of the port in the valve cover. Im stumped. anyone got any ideas?

bd2bonez06

I am far from an expert but I have had this problem also, alot of people recommend running a catch can along with the breather, in my case it ended up being a burnt piston allowing the blow by

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

you got a blown ringland welcome to the club

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Yep you probably had it the first time, but after driving it a while you are just getting more and more blowby the stock PVC valve can't hole the boost and you end up presuring up the crank case and then bad your done especially on stock pistons. Need a check valve before the intake and the pvc system and a breather for when your under boost just a suggetion a lot of people have something simular to what I have just decribed some just do away with the PVC system all together and run breathers so take your pick and get you froged bottom end. Good luck! Look in my signiture and you will see what mind looked like and it never knocked or any thing they were destroyed ran fine except for the oil issues.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

What kind of prs were you runing at. Just finished my D1SC install, stock bottom. Just wondering were the fine line is at. I see 7-8 psi try to keep it around 7 but it can get close to 8. Depending on how long I keep my foot in it at the upper end.

ss01layinwheel

i see around 10-11 psi at redline. anyone got a diagram or pics of how to set up there pcv system. i'm gonna do a leak down test today.

ss01layinwheel

leak down test this week i mean

turboo16

Good info needed also Thanks

tici

iTrader: (1)

I tried the breather but it messed up the LTFT too much (it's unmetered air).
Look at my homepage for how I solved the problem... just an idea.
I also had oil going back from the valvecover to the blower and now it's OK.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

"LTFT" What is that Stefano? I am using an open filter with better results than my previous attempts I have one more solution I just hanven't had time to try it.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Jeff!! Mhhh... you mean you are driving either idle cells or #22?
Or no cells at all?
My setup is probably one of the quitest over here, but my goal is different also: "+100 HP, almost stock, nothing broken". That's why I still watch my LTFT.

ss01layinwheel

im doing a leak down test tomarow. i'll keep you all posted.

BlwnTA

iTrader: (18)

You have broke ringland or burnt a hole in a piston. Been there already. Time to forge the motor and get a good tune.

As far as the PVC System there are many schools of thought on that, the only one that counts is the way that Kurt at W2W told me to set it up they are the FI experts. Do a search for threads I have posted and you will find it with pics. PM me with any questions!

ss01layinwheel

well did a compression test today. I only did three cylinders cause I found the culprate early. here are the numbers..
#1-175
#2-170
#7-0

o well, time to do some research on strokers and such. I think I am leaning towards the SLP 402 rotating assembly(everything is forged), 9:1 compression. I am shooting for 600 RWHP on pump gas. anyone have any opinions or words of advice.

I am prolly gonna rip the engine out and tear it down in a few weeks.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Take a look at Lingenfelter they are having a special on forged short blocks, buddy just got a 383 stroker long block and loves it.