Forged Engine for FI
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
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From: Sunny San Diego
Forged Engine for FI I am planning on a forged engine. Looking to keep my P1 so a 347 should be ok.
Any recommendations on which one? I plan on keeping my 6.0L heads, Nitrous, and switching to a blower friendly cam.
I would search but it is down...
Any recommendations on which one? I plan on keeping my 6.0L heads, Nitrous, and switching to a blower friendly cam.
I would search but it is down...
Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
I am planning on a forged engine. Looking to keep my P1 so a 347 should be ok.
Any recommendations on which one? I plan on keeping my 6.0L heads, Nitrous, and switching to a blower friendly cam.
I would search but it is down...
Any recommendations on which one? I plan on keeping my 6.0L heads, Nitrous, and switching to a blower friendly cam.
I would search but it is down...
. You should probably go with one of the sponsors that have been around for a while for a forged shortblock. And use a credit card instead of check/moneyorder 
. Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by Caveman
I hear APE is having a shortblock sale . You should probably go with one of the sponsors that have been around for a while for a forged shortblock. And use a credit card instead of check/moneyorder .
. You should probably go with one of the sponsors that have been around for a while for a forged shortblock. And use a credit card instead of check/moneyorder .
Well even though most have been around doesn't mean that much.
But yes credit card. I learn that one the hard way.
Anyway back on topic. Would like to have 600 rwhp reliable. Just not familair with long block minus heads.
Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
APE
Well even though most have been around doesn't mean that much.
But yes credit card. I learn that one the hard way.
Anyway back on topic. Would like to have 600 rwhp reliable. Just not familair with long block minus heads.
Well even though most have been around doesn't mean that much.
But yes credit card. I learn that one the hard way.
Anyway back on topic. Would like to have 600 rwhp reliable. Just not familair with long block minus heads.
You think you had a bad time with Jay @ Absolute, this company had almost 50 engines sold on a shortblock sale about $140,000 in customers $$ and owed alot to vendors/sponsors like Thunder Racing, Billingsly,KTS and others and just went under about 2-3 weeks ago 
. There are alot of sponsors that build good shortblocks, the guys that deal most w/FI motors are W2W, Speed Inc, HPE and Livernois. I am having my shortblock rebuilt by Next Level Perf in Orlando using a badass Callies crank from W2W
but they mainly do motors inhouse deffinately not to Cali.P.S. W2W & HPE
have the fastest LS1 cars running right now
Originally Posted by Crunch
I preferred using a local shop. I just ordered the internals myself and had them assemble, balance, etc. I just felt more comfortable than going with a mail order motor.
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Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
Would like to have 600 rwhp reliable. Just not familair with long block minus heads.
Rod bolts are said to be the weak link in the ls1. Now, if you're opening the motor to replace said bolts and you have the cash & desire to replace the pistons & rods - go for it. But you'll be way above your stated hp/reliability goal. If I ever open up my engine I'd be inclinded to spend the money on better internals, but it's overkill.
Concentrate on the tune and 600rwhp is in the bag if you can move enough air and have the fuel to support it. Once the search feature works again, go back and read some of the incon threads from 3 yrs ago. Matt Harlan used a stock block for something like 30,000 miles with a tune around 600rw.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 0
From: Sunny San Diego
Originally Posted by DaveSchott
Is your current motor history? If not why not use it? You can do 600rw reliably on a stock engine as long as you don't spin it way high. Are forged pistons, rods & cranks nice pieces - yes. Are they need for 600rw - only if you run a crappy tune. I shake my head when reading about the kid who has the thread going on how he spent all this money & time only to blow it up...because he didn't consider the most fundamental change: the tune and specifially the timing.
Rod bolts are said to be the weak link in the ls1. Now, if you're opening the motor to replace said bolts and you have the cash & desire to replace the pistons & rods - go for it. But you'll be way above your stated hp/reliability goal. If I ever open up my engine I'd be inclinded to spend the money on better internals, but it's overkill.
Concentrate on the tune and 600rwhp is in the bag if you can move enough air and have the fuel to support it. Once the search feature works again, go back and read some of the incon threads from 3 yrs ago. Matt Harlan used a stock block for something like 30,000 miles with a tune around 600rw.
Rod bolts are said to be the weak link in the ls1. Now, if you're opening the motor to replace said bolts and you have the cash & desire to replace the pistons & rods - go for it. But you'll be way above your stated hp/reliability goal. If I ever open up my engine I'd be inclinded to spend the money on better internals, but it's overkill.
Concentrate on the tune and 600rwhp is in the bag if you can move enough air and have the fuel to support it. Once the search feature works again, go back and read some of the incon threads from 3 yrs ago. Matt Harlan used a stock block for something like 30,000 miles with a tune around 600rw.
I want 600 rwhp without Nitrous and be able to shoot a 50 shot.