ATI D1-SC Yeilds Poor Dyno Numbers...
05-29-2005, 05:42 PM
#23
From looking at the graph there is a few thing's I would think.
1-belt slip by the way power falls off.
2-Timing -looks like a lack of timing.Was the run recorded? Sometimes there are other tuning tables that affect the timing on boost by either adding or subtracting timing from the main timing map.
1-belt slip by the way power falls off.
2-Timing -looks like a lack of timing.Was the run recorded? Sometimes there are other tuning tables that affect the timing on boost by either adding or subtracting timing from the main timing map.
05-29-2005, 07:32 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
From looking at the graph there is a few thing's I would think.
1-belt slip by the way power falls off.
2-Timing -looks like a lack of timing.Was the run recorded? Sometimes there are other tuning tables that affect the timing on boost by either adding or subtracting timing from the main timing map.
1-belt slip by the way power falls off.
2-Timing -looks like a lack of timing.Was the run recorded? Sometimes there are other tuning tables that affect the timing on boost by either adding or subtracting timing from the main timing map.
I don't know much about timing or tuning. We left the timing a little low, around 18 degrees so I could go to a smaller pulley in the future.
05-29-2005, 07:40 PM
#25
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If you want your problems to be gone forever go with an SDCE 8-Rib....if not, you fight belt problems forever....you will get sick of messing with it.
BTW...NA$TY TA / FRCEFED are right on the money! This is like bad flash back for us!
FWIW...I made 521 on 10PSI and then 587 on 12PSI on very similiar stock set-up. If you get to 8 PSI you should make around 500 rwhp, be happy with that and don't get greedy if it's a street car!
BTW...NA$TY TA / FRCEFED are right on the money! This is like bad flash back for us!
FWIW...I made 521 on 10PSI and then 587 on 12PSI on very similiar stock set-up. If you get to 8 PSI you should make around 500 rwhp, be happy with that and don't get greedy if it's a street car!
05-29-2005, 08:52 PM
#28
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MMS crank pulley + 4.0 blower + really snug Gaterback belt is working great for me , too much boost actually . I'm running 9 psi. @ 5800 . Carolina Auto masters is the greatest for a tune , Jeff is a awesome guy and really knows his 'stuff . Keep the S/C and work the bugs out . It's worth it . Good Luck
05-30-2005, 10:52 PM
#32
PM SDCE here then.
What kind of info are you looking for?
The 8 rib SDCE set up is,
You send em your s/c bracket, they quickly modify the bracket for the spring tensioner.
You get a 8 rib crank pulley that can be used on the stock crank pulley AND the ATI superdampner crank pulley...slick ehh?
and a 8 rib s/c pulley your choice
and a NAPA 8 rib belt.
and almost forgot, a wicked but simple s/c bracket brace and assorted washers and bolts.
all for 750+ if I remember right....glad I spent it, never had to buy a belt again due to slippage and the car always was consistant with the boost output, which is nice when it comes to tuning time
J
What kind of info are you looking for?
The 8 rib SDCE set up is,
You send em your s/c bracket, they quickly modify the bracket for the spring tensioner.
You get a 8 rib crank pulley that can be used on the stock crank pulley AND the ATI superdampner crank pulley...slick ehh?
and a 8 rib s/c pulley your choice
and a NAPA 8 rib belt.
and almost forgot, a wicked but simple s/c bracket brace and assorted washers and bolts.
all for 750+ if I remember right....glad I spent it, never had to buy a belt again due to slippage and the car always was consistant with the boost output, which is nice when it comes to tuning time
J
05-30-2005, 11:00 PM
#33
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Get rid of the stock 6" crank pulley. I went threw the same problem on one of our cars, I eventually went all the way down to a 3.2 pulley and still could not get anymore than 6.5 psi. I added the 7.25 crank pulley from SDCE and pulleyed the charger back up to 3.4 and a hefty 10.5 psi all the time now. Its all in the crank pulley, if that slips, you got nothing.
Also, I see in your signature you put down bad O2's. Why would you want to tune the car with bad O2's if you know they are bad?
rick
Also, I see in your signature you put down bad O2's. Why would you want to tune the car with bad O2's if you know they are bad?
rick
05-30-2005, 11:16 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Rick@Synergy
Get rid of the stock 6" crank pulley. I went threw the same problem on one of our cars, I eventually went all the way down to a 3.2 pulley and still could not get anymore than 6.5 psi. I added the 7.25 crank pulley from SDCE and pulleyed the charger back up to 3.4 and a hefty 10.5 psi all the time now. Its all in the crank pulley, if that slips, you got nothing.
Also, I see in your signature you put down bad O2's. Why would you want to tune the car with bad O2's if you know they are bad?
rick
Also, I see in your signature you put down bad O2's. Why would you want to tune the car with bad O2's if you know they are bad?
rick
05-31-2005, 12:29 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Nick said that they were just putting out abnormal voltages and werent fluctuating like they should. We swapped them out for the other used ones and they worked a little better. Then I put some new Bosch ones in today and the car runs better. Nick said the bad O2s wouldnt affect dyno since we tuned in open loop.
Honestly, the O2's are still pretty important under any condition, because they help define when the transistion from closed loop to open loop happen as well. And if he is not relying on the O2's, then I take it he is building you a VE table also right? Your PE tables only goes so far, all tables have to be in line to be 100% accurate all the time. And by switching to new O2 sensors, you now affected your part thorttle tuning if any was done. Any changes make differences in our PCM's. Never assume.
06-20-2005, 12:58 AM
#36
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Bad 02's can junk a motor fast. If you even think they are possibly bad, replace them. Like Rick said if your tune was based on faulty readings, your tune is only as good as the bad readings.
The O2's are there for reason, to monitor the performance of the engine. I do not know why anyone would want to not use them in this day in age. They are big benefit and tell you a lot in making your car run for optimal performance.
The O2's are there for reason, to monitor the performance of the engine. I do not know why anyone would want to not use them in this day in age. They are big benefit and tell you a lot in making your car run for optimal performance.
