i know but i like you guys in forced induction ! 
battery relocation to rear question.
Originally Posted by sscam68
I used 2 gauge welding cable. AWG rates it up to 225 amps.
I completely replaced the stock harness though.
Most are going to recommend 1/O.
I completely replaced the stock harness though.
Most are going to recommend 1/O.
heat =resistance! that would explain why im only reading 11.7 volts at the computer and at the guage gotta buy go get some cabel!thanks
Last edited by SINISTER; Jun 6, 2005 at 09:35 PM.
I bought a relo kit off ebay last year it has 0/1 guage and was a kit made for a Mustang. Benefit of the thicker wire is that it's wired to the original battery terminals up front and no separate wires to alternator. Made for a clean install.
customer at the shop today offered me some free brand new 4 guage wire.
think this will be allright??????? every penny counts??
ran the car today felt good...
except for the fact i still have v6 springs and shocks in the front and with a set of skinnys its real low!!! haha
but thanks to jj's automotive to the resecue a set of v8 shocks and springs have arrived!!
thanks
pewterss and orangess
think this will be allright??????? every penny counts??
ran the car today felt good...
except for the fact i still have v6 springs and shocks in the front and with a set of skinnys its real low!!! haha
but thanks to jj's automotive to the resecue a set of v8 shocks and springs have arrived!!
thanks
pewterss and orangess
More strands = less resistance for a given length. Lower the number = more strands, higher the current capacity. That means you will drop less voltage across the wire with 0/1 AWG then with 2+ AWG. Don't use the 4 AWG! It will probably get very hot and can melt the insulation leading to bigger problems.
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From: toronto
4 Awg Is no where near caplable of 225amps I would not be using that
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Try looking here
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Try looking here
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From: Coppell,TX
2 guage minimum with the length involved. Get it from Home Depot or Lowes much cheaper wire. However the wire wont have the flexibility of say car stereo power wire. AND AWG HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH STRANDS. Its the size of the wire. 8 awg 2,000 strand flows about the same as solid copper bolt the same size and length. I have almost overheated 4 guage with 1600w of amps. Thats only 120amps and i never hit that max.
is it worth it? Do you guys think relocating the battery to the rear of the car for traction reasons is worth the extra weight and any current loss you experience running a cable up the the length of the car?
I know sometimes it's necessary to move the battery because you just run out of room in the engine compartment... is this why everyone does it??
I know sometimes it's necessary to move the battery because you just run out of room in the engine compartment... is this why everyone does it??
Relocating battery to back requires an externally mounted kill switch (if you ever wanna race the thing). The kill switch must shut off EVERYTHING so even the power out of your alternator must run back to the battery like you said. It seems asinine but if you have a fire and your fuel pump is still on, the switch would kill the battery and if your car was still running, your alternator would still be feeding the fuel pump and you'd be in trouble.
If you can get #4 for free, I think you'd be okay running two #4 wires from the alternator back to the battery would be better than just one. FWIW, I'm using #2.
If you can get #4 for free, I think you'd be okay running two #4 wires from the alternator back to the battery would be better than just one. FWIW, I'm using #2.
can the switch be anywhere as long as its in the back, does it have to be visable, acan it be under the fender or some place like that. i just dont want a switch out and about where everybody can get to it
Originally Posted by KAOS
can the switch be anywhere as long as its in the back, does it have to be visable, acan it be under the fender or some place like that. i just dont want a switch out and about where everybody can get to it
what is everybody using to ground the battery to in the back. reran all wires/cable. 2g for the alt and 1/0 for the others. and using 2g for the ground, except i cant find a good ground besides a little bolt holding something to the fender. is there like a "frame" ground that i could use?
well hooked it all up and nothing is happening. i dont know what is going on. i checked every fuse and nothing. i have the battery grounded to the rear shock, to the nut on top. and it appears as though its a good ground. i took a test light to the wires up at the front of the car and nothing is happening. its like its not making it up that far. and the only place the test light comes on is in the back when i touch it to the shock bolt. the other ground i used last time will not cause the test light to come on. any comments would be great
I would bolt the ground to the frame rail. I would use the 0 guage to the back from the orignal battery wires. Disconnect the alternator line and run a 4 guage to the battery. Kill switch needs to be mounted to the bumper cover or the section just under the hatch. Don't relocate just for weight as it is not worth the cash.
i reloacted just bc i thought it looked good and i got a great deal on the battery and holder. yeah that shock does have a rubber bushing but i figured the bolt would carry down to the mount. i used the big stud that my seat belts were once attached to. it works great. but i just have to hook up a switch. just dont know where to put it. want it to look good not cheesy. any pics from anybody