guages
guages okay, what guages do you really need? i figured that a/f is crap and pointless. boost is a must. and my import friend said he always had a pyrometer. so i was thinking boost and pyrometer in an A-piller pod. would that cut it? or is there something else i should be checking on? I can always get a 3 gauge piller pod instead of a two.
neal
neal
Im going to run 2 guages. Boost and Fuel Pressure. After long discussions with friends Ive determined those are the 2 to have. Youre right.. AF, especially the Autometer, is kinda worthless. The only good AF to have is a wideband... none of the mickey mouse ones that have blinky pretty lights. If you can float the cash get a 3 pillar and use boost, FP, and a wideband.
Pyrometer, EGT guage, is a great tool.. but youll only be able to monitor 1 cylinder properly. To get an accurate reading you have to mount the probe only a couple inches off the exhaust port. Ive seen some people mount the probe where the headers or manifolds combine but at that point youre going to see inaccurate readings... then again thatll only be one bank of cylinders.
Pyrometer, EGT guage, is a great tool.. but youll only be able to monitor 1 cylinder properly. To get an accurate reading you have to mount the probe only a couple inches off the exhaust port. Ive seen some people mount the probe where the headers or manifolds combine but at that point youre going to see inaccurate readings... then again thatll only be one bank of cylinders.
why would i only be getting one bank of cylinders? im not running a twin setup, just a single turbo, and i would put the sensor in the down pipe. but ya i think fuel pressure is a good one, lemme see if i can fit that into my budget.
edit: summit wants 200+ for a fuel pressure guage...think im gonna hold off on that one.
edit #2: and if anyone knows places cheaper than summit for autometer cf guages do tell!!!!!!
edit: summit wants 200+ for a fuel pressure guage...think im gonna hold off on that one.
edit #2: and if anyone knows places cheaper than summit for autometer cf guages do tell!!!!!!
Last edited by stoleit; Jun 8, 2005 at 11:14 AM.
I would get the Fuel pressure before the boost gauge.......
The $200 is worth it...... how else would you know if your FP is dropping of or not????????????????
If it is and you dont know it then you can and will run lean and be spending alot more $$ then the $200 you saved........
Im running a 2 5/8 Boost gauge in my Left center A/C vent
And i have the dual A-Pillar that i did have a 2 1/16 boost gauge bu ti like seeing it better with the 2 5/8 gauge....... i am also going to go with either the AEM EUGO Wideband or the Innovative Motorsports LC-1..... they are real wide bands and run about $350-$400.
The Fuel pressure gauge is a must man........
heres a pic of my A-Pillar... there the Ultarlite gauges..
Kyle
The $200 is worth it...... how else would you know if your FP is dropping of or not????????????????
If it is and you dont know it then you can and will run lean and be spending alot more $$ then the $200 you saved........
Im running a 2 5/8 Boost gauge in my Left center A/C vent
And i have the dual A-Pillar that i did have a 2 1/16 boost gauge bu ti like seeing it better with the 2 5/8 gauge....... i am also going to go with either the AEM EUGO Wideband or the Innovative Motorsports LC-1..... they are real wide bands and run about $350-$400.
The Fuel pressure gauge is a must man........
heres a pic of my A-Pillar... there the Ultarlite gauges..
Kyle
Boost, Fuel pressure and if you have an auto then trans temp. I think pyro would only help you if you do your own tuning in car, same goes for wideband. Fuel pessure is a little pricey for full sweep electric but you definately need to know if your pressure is dropping off at WOT cuz if you go too lean its going to cost allot more than $200
Sorry Kyle, same time post!!
Sorry Kyle, same time post!!
Originally Posted by stoleit
why would i only be getting one bank of cylinders? im not running a twin setup, just a single turbo, and i would put the sensor in the down pipe.
In other words.. dont worry about the EGT.
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Teching In
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Im running EGT, oil pressure, boost, and fuel pressure. The only reason that I kept the boost gauge is for a safety net only. The EMS that I'm running will keep the car from over-boosting (based on MAP sensor).
The EGT should be mounted as close as possible to the turbine discharge, so you get as accurate of a measurment as possible. Also, you can get a good EGT for ~$150...no need for competition level thermocouple, unless your going to be running alcohol.
Fuel pressure...you dont want your fuel pressure to drop during boost. If it drops below the OEM limit (42 psi on my car) then the static compression put on the other side of the injectors will be greater...basically it can **** the injectors up. If it does drop...look into getting a boost dependent FPR (and bypass the stock one). I got a fuel pressure gauge under the hood. Its the liquid filled gauge. When ever your at idle, you can adjust it with a FPR and when you go to the dyno...have someone watch the guage and tell you if it drops below the OEM fuel pressure level. Other than that, there is no real need to put out $200 for an electric one...I picked mine up for less than $50 shipped.
And oil pressure, so that you know that the oil pump and everything related to that is working properly. Also, you can know when your car is actually at operating temp by the oil pressure. With out proper oil pressure...kiss your turbo good bye
The EGT should be mounted as close as possible to the turbine discharge, so you get as accurate of a measurment as possible. Also, you can get a good EGT for ~$150...no need for competition level thermocouple, unless your going to be running alcohol.
Fuel pressure...you dont want your fuel pressure to drop during boost. If it drops below the OEM limit (42 psi on my car) then the static compression put on the other side of the injectors will be greater...basically it can **** the injectors up. If it does drop...look into getting a boost dependent FPR (and bypass the stock one). I got a fuel pressure gauge under the hood. Its the liquid filled gauge. When ever your at idle, you can adjust it with a FPR and when you go to the dyno...have someone watch the guage and tell you if it drops below the OEM fuel pressure level. Other than that, there is no real need to put out $200 for an electric one...I picked mine up for less than $50 shipped.
And oil pressure, so that you know that the oil pump and everything related to that is working properly. Also, you can know when your car is actually at operating temp by the oil pressure. With out proper oil pressure...kiss your turbo good bye
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I will have Fuel pressure,oil pressure,boost(e-boost), and wideband Innovate LC-1/XD-1. I got the Stewart Warner gauges from TTP on sale. Paid like 85 for the fuel pressure and 75 for the oil pressure. Both electric and both 2 5/8's. Great price.
http://www.sw-performance.com/produc...oryid=Featured
http://www.sw-performance.com/produc...oryid=Featured
Originally Posted by kracker
Im running EGT, oil pressure, boost, and fuel pressure. The only reason that I kept the boost gauge is for a safety net only. The EMS that I'm running will keep the car from over-boosting (based on MAP sensor).
The EGT should be mounted as close as possible to the turbine discharge, so you get as accurate of a measurment as possible. Also, you can get a good EGT for ~$150...no need for competition level thermocouple, unless your going to be running alcohol.
Fuel pressure...you dont want your fuel pressure to drop during boost. If it drops below the OEM limit (42 psi on my car) then the static compression put on the other side of the injectors will be greater...basically it can **** the injectors up. If it does drop...look into getting a boost dependent FPR (and bypass the stock one). I got a fuel pressure gauge under the hood. Its the liquid filled gauge. When ever your at idle, you can adjust it with a FPR and when you go to the dyno...have someone watch the guage and tell you if it drops below the OEM fuel pressure level. Other than that, there is no real need to put out $200 for an electric one...I picked mine up for less than $50 shipped.
And oil pressure, so that you know that the oil pump and everything related to that is working properly. Also, you can know when your car is actually at operating temp by the oil pressure. With out proper oil pressure...kiss your turbo good bye
The EGT should be mounted as close as possible to the turbine discharge, so you get as accurate of a measurment as possible. Also, you can get a good EGT for ~$150...no need for competition level thermocouple, unless your going to be running alcohol.
Fuel pressure...you dont want your fuel pressure to drop during boost. If it drops below the OEM limit (42 psi on my car) then the static compression put on the other side of the injectors will be greater...basically it can **** the injectors up. If it does drop...look into getting a boost dependent FPR (and bypass the stock one). I got a fuel pressure gauge under the hood. Its the liquid filled gauge. When ever your at idle, you can adjust it with a FPR and when you go to the dyno...have someone watch the guage and tell you if it drops below the OEM fuel pressure level. Other than that, there is no real need to put out $200 for an electric one...I picked mine up for less than $50 shipped.
And oil pressure, so that you know that the oil pump and everything related to that is working properly. Also, you can know when your car is actually at operating temp by the oil pressure. With out proper oil pressure...kiss your turbo good bye
Also.. can someone explain to me how reading EGTs after a turbo will be as accurate as a couple inches off the exhaust port, ie which is exactly heat measured right after combustion? I see a lot of people using EGTs after the turbo. From my researching, and experiences, if you put a probe too far down stream your readings will be inaccurate. Also.. from my experiences.. as mentioned above.. a better thermocouple will register faster which IMO is more accurate. :shrug:
I am running Boost, Fuel Pressure, and Water Temp. Boost is obvious. Fuel pressure because when you are running FI, a sudden drop in fuel pressure would indicate a loss of fuel to the motor, which is bad news. Water temp because the stock gauge is trash. EGT is more of something for diesels when towing.
Originally Posted by stoleit
okay so ditch the pyro and go with fuel pressure, and if i have enough $ oil pressure too.
If you have money to spend Id grab a wideband before a oil pressure... thats if you want to fill a triple pillar.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by Avengeance
Is this for a LS1 or a import?
Also.. can someone explain to me how reading EGTs after a turbo will be as accurate as a couple inches off the exhaust port, ie which is exactly heat measured right after combustion? I see a lot of people using EGTs after the turbo. From my researching, and experiences, if you put a probe too far down stream your readings will be inaccurate. Also.. from my experiences.. as mentioned above.. a better thermocouple will register faster which IMO is more accurate. :shrug:
Also.. can someone explain to me how reading EGTs after a turbo will be as accurate as a couple inches off the exhaust port, ie which is exactly heat measured right after combustion? I see a lot of people using EGTs after the turbo. From my researching, and experiences, if you put a probe too far down stream your readings will be inaccurate. Also.. from my experiences.. as mentioned above.. a better thermocouple will register faster which IMO is more accurate. :shrug:
Also, my car dont come with an oil pressure gauge from the factory
I added a 2 stage temp gauge, one after the turbo and one in the intake to see how much temp drop I’m getting w. the intercoolers, when I go up in power some day soon, I will see when my I/c's are not efficient anymore. Very cool gauge, but not very necessary.
But I like it, the switch for the two stages is in my counsel, It also has a max. temp recall.
I just picked up line loc and I going to make the fog light switch activate it.
(took out the fog lights – put screens for the intercoolers.
look all 6 gauges in one nice shot.
oil
fuel
water
intake temp
scanmaster
e-boost
Wish the pic was in focus.
But I like it, the switch for the two stages is in my counsel, It also has a max. temp recall.
I just picked up line loc and I going to make the fog light switch activate it.
(took out the fog lights – put screens for the intercoolers.
look all 6 gauges in one nice shot.
oil
fuel
water
intake temp
scanmaster
e-boost
Wish the pic was in focus.
I ruin the end of films...
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,545
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From: Taking back some video tapes
For a turbo car..
Boost
Fuel Pressure
EGT (best way to tune a turbo car)
I've got boost, FP, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, volts, trans temp, fuel level, speedo, tach in my car (FP, boost, oil pressure & water temp in the vents, everything else in the old gauge cluster).
EGT goes before the turbo too. I have a dual-channel from ARC that has two thermocouples and can peak/hold both of them.
Boost
Fuel Pressure
EGT (best way to tune a turbo car)
I've got boost, FP, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, volts, trans temp, fuel level, speedo, tach in my car (FP, boost, oil pressure & water temp in the vents, everything else in the old gauge cluster).
EGT goes before the turbo too. I have a dual-channel from ARC that has two thermocouples and can peak/hold both of them.
All you need is Boost/Fuel press. Wide band is nice to have(better to have then not)It is 100% needed for tuning. A/F gauge(neroband) is pointless. It tells absolutly nothing. And a pyrometer is dumb too. It will only tell you there is something wrong 8 seconds after you blew your motor.