TwnTrboCE

iTrader: (43)

I would stay aluminum block. The iron block is not needed.
As far as replacing the crank that is a call your going to have to make. If your staying near 700 then I wouldn't think twice about it. My stock shortblock lived at that level for a season and was perfectly fine when dissasembled. Now if your going for 1000RWHP then you want to consider a crank. Although I stayed with the stock crank and will hit 1000rwhp shortly.
Like Matt said I don't recommend this though.
W2W will take care of ya.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Get an engine diaper and crank the boost...the crank isn't going to window anything, although something else might as a result!

Phate

iTrader: (2)

It's the oil that you drive over that is the problem...not the pieces that fall out the bottom

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Read: engine diaper. Same kinda **** top fuelers and tons of other racers run because everytime they put oil on the track they are penalized.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

I was told by a sponsor to go iron instead of aluminum. I would like to stay aluminum but do not want to replace my whole block the first year.

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Go w/ the LS2 block. Best of both worlds: aluminum and bigger bore.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

I've been doing a lot of searching and I am starting to lean towards an LS2 build. My main concern is the block holding up.

Kevin@W2W

We have not received you email yet. Our server has been down since last Friday. They are working on right now.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

you just have to deal with the knock sensor issue then.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

Can't the knock sensors be deleted through the computer? I read about some just getting rid of them.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

with how much money your putting into a motor you really want to take that chance?sure theres people doing it,hell i almost went with the LS2 right when they first came out,but i sure wouldnt delete the knock sensors on a motor im dropping $1000's on.you cant just bolt in the LS1/LS6 sensors in the factor location.you can either retap the holes for them and then tune the sensitivity,or you can mount then elsewhere on the block.i read alot about it,its a bit of a hassle with the KS's but the rest of the conversion is easy enough.But if i were you i definitely wouldnt just get rid of them all together.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

WellW2W just suggested going iron as well so it looks like I might be going iron anyway. So far every sponsor says iron!

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

I rarely see high-performance cars with knock sensors and that's been that way for a long time...tune it and add in a factor of safety and call it a day. Knock-sensors will pick up a lot of regular noises as knock (valvetrain, wheels landing after a big wheelie, whatever).

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

didnt know this was a race only car.i thought he'd be driving it some off the track.for a street car it makes sense to keep KS's

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Any car with an aftermarket EFI system on it won't have knock-sensors either. So I guess they are all racecars too? BS3 is just developing a knock-sensor system now but cars have been driving around for hundreds of years without knock sensors and I don't recall hearing about them blowing up daily or anything like that. I know for my car and my pop's car, we turned off the knock sensors because they caused nothing but problems and inconsistency. I just use my right foot as my knock sensor...if she starts rattling, lift.

To each their own...

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

i see no where did he list that he's using an aftermarket EFI system(Bs3,FAST,etc).thats why i said what i said.you know you can make 700rwhp or more with a stock ECU,right?if hes going with an aftermarket 1 than yes youre correct.ANYWAYS,so you make a choice yet about what youre doing HAMRHEAD?

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

If he does ls2 then he won't have knock sensors without some modifications or he can just ditch them altogether. Explaining why they are not needed seems pretty relevant to the topic at hand to me.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

ok well i personally think for a street car they ARE a good idea.so thats a difference of opinion,and if you read my first post on the LS2 i said it needed to be modified.stop arguing as its not solving anything, or helping him out.im waiting to see what he decides to go with.

HAMRHEAD

iTrader: (8)

I haven't had a sponsor say "go with the LS2 block yet" they all say iron so I will more than likely take their advice. Unless I decide to go agaist the grain! I may be going with BS3 if there is any money left but will use my PCM until then.

stevieturbo

I'd say everyone saying iron are playing it safe, as you are a paying customer.

No doubt there are Alu blocks that will hold up fine, for a long time...they just cant guarantee it as easily.