procharger questions
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
procharger questions 1. i have a small oil leak looks like its coming from the top of the sc like the dipstick screw....i tighten it down but to no avail it still appears to be leaking...what should i do?
2. i didnt install the larger fuel pump in series with my stock pump, but i did install the 38# injectors.... it seems like its running rich at low rpms which makes sense but i keep it under 3k rpm for safe measures....can running rich cause any potential damage to the motor??
3. boost....around what rpm does boost pressure actually become pressure vice vacuum?? i get to 3k and its about 16"....i dont slam the gas yet so i figured maybe thats why...how fast does boost pressure normally rise and how wide open is the throttle??
2. i didnt install the larger fuel pump in series with my stock pump, but i did install the 38# injectors.... it seems like its running rich at low rpms which makes sense but i keep it under 3k rpm for safe measures....can running rich cause any potential damage to the motor??
3. boost....around what rpm does boost pressure actually become pressure vice vacuum?? i get to 3k and its about 16"....i dont slam the gas yet so i figured maybe thats why...how fast does boost pressure normally rise and how wide open is the throttle??
1-there is a little nylon washer underneath the dipstick/fill hole, maybe you lost it?
2-running too rich or too lean can both be bad, but I would err on the side of rich to be safe.
3-you will not see full boost until you have the pedal to the floor and hit your peak rpm. I can take the motor up to 5k part throttle and will only see maybe 4psi, but if I floor it I get about 7psi. So where is it going? Have you ever looked at that black air box at idle and then rev it up-it swells up like a balloon-so it must be doing the same thing at part throttle runs. I wonder how much it will take to blow up that black box?
just my two cents
2-running too rich or too lean can both be bad, but I would err on the side of rich to be safe.
3-you will not see full boost until you have the pedal to the floor and hit your peak rpm. I can take the motor up to 5k part throttle and will only see maybe 4psi, but if I floor it I get about 7psi. So where is it going? Have you ever looked at that black air box at idle and then rev it up-it swells up like a balloon-so it must be doing the same thing at part throttle runs. I wonder how much it will take to blow up that black box?
just my two cents
Last edited by furiouSS99; Jun 20, 2005 at 04:53 PM.
Awns 1, There should be a small plastic washer-seal under the dip stick. You can get them from procharger, they usualy send a extra one with a case of oil.
Awns 2 You say you installed larger injectors and running rich. Have you had the car tuned yet? May need some tweaking in the tune? Or have you just finished the install if so a tune is most deffentaly needed.
Awns. 3 Sounds like a by pass valve problem is the valve installed correct. Do you have a good vacume source? When are you looking at this the car must be under a load to see boost. Will not work just by reving it up. If on the road and driving go wot you should vacume drop and prs should start to indicate & climb from there.
Awns 2 You say you installed larger injectors and running rich. Have you had the car tuned yet? May need some tweaking in the tune? Or have you just finished the install if so a tune is most deffentaly needed.
Awns. 3 Sounds like a by pass valve problem is the valve installed correct. Do you have a good vacume source? When are you looking at this the car must be under a load to see boost. Will not work just by reving it up. If on the road and driving go wot you should vacume drop and prs should start to indicate & climb from there.
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
i still have the nylon washer maybe i should get a thicker 1...its like as thin as paper....i dont take it above 3k rpm yet so i should be fine till i go to the dyno tomorrow then? the ses light came on probably about running rich...
Just changed my oil today nylon washer is .035 thick/ OD=.494/ID.311 should be able to find something at the local hardware store. Could even put a bit of teflon tape on the threads to get you by.
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
im not sure if this is normal for sc motors but i was driving w/ some friends and when it revved above 3100rpm, i wasnt even wot btw it jumped from 31 to 5000rpm, i didnt see if boost was normal or if still at vacuum....ill try the teflon tape that sounds like it will work best...i have stock fuel pump, sc installed and larger injectors....the kit was supposed to come with a cable for the fuel pump they gave me to add in but i never got it therefore i have the sc, and injectors installed w/ stock fuel pump and no tune yet....
If you are already getting on it before the tune you are asking for trouble!! Best to get it tuned before you drive it any more.
As for you fuel pump are you talking about the inline pump that comes with the ATI kit? If so I would highly recomend you get that going as well, you are going to need the extra fuel. With a lean condition (less fuel) you are asking for problems and going to do some damage. You will not even be able to get a good tune. With out the extra fuel.
What are you using for gauges? Must have--- boost/vac and Fuel prs. Wideband 02 is great if you can afford it.
As for you fuel pump are you talking about the inline pump that comes with the ATI kit? If so I would highly recomend you get that going as well, you are going to need the extra fuel. With a lean condition (less fuel) you are asking for problems and going to do some damage. You will not even be able to get a good tune. With out the extra fuel.
What are you using for gauges? Must have--- boost/vac and Fuel prs. Wideband 02 is great if you can afford it.
Last edited by 618HAWK; Jun 21, 2005 at 10:58 AM.
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Originally Posted by 68ss_00ss_87_95
im not sure if this is normal for sc motors but i was driving w/ some friends and when it revved above 3100rpm, i wasnt even wot btw it jumped from 31 to 5000rpm, i didnt see if boost was normal or if still at vacuum....ill try the teflon tape that sounds like it will work best...i have stock fuel pump, sc installed and larger injectors....the kit was supposed to come with a cable for the fuel pump they gave me to add in but i never got it therefore i have the sc, and injectors installed w/ stock fuel pump and no tune yet....
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
the kit came with the tuner but the dyno i bought it through said it was on back order, it should be there when i go up there....right now with the larger injectors the computer says its running rich on both banks....which leads me to believe the sc isnt getting all the air into the intake....one thing i have noted is that at idle the sc kinda makes a rattling sound...kinda like the bearing inside is getting worn in still.....im not sure. there was a steel braided line that came with the fmu portion of the kit and i didnt get the fmu portion and when i called pro charger they made me wait for 20 minutes on hold and i just got fed up...i was thinking about installing the pump in with the t-joint on the fuel lines but i wanted clarification by pro charger saying i didnt need the steel braided cable...theoretically i can install it between the tank/filter so the pump taps in before what i think is the return line for excess fuel.....once again im new at this stuff and im tryin to gather info from the distributor and the dyno and i keep getting put on hold....its difficult to get the answers i need through them......with the procharger on the intake box if i rev it to 2500 the box pulsates from the air pressure and the surge valve cycles open/shut rapidly as you rev it....is this normal too? i just want to make sure im getting all the stuff right before i go to the dyno and break something ty for the help
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
i know why its rich but i want to get all the problems solved before i tune it otherwise im gonna have to go multiple times and im in the military and im not that fortunate
I see you went with the FMU setup. Which you realy dont need it is only going to cause you problems, and high chance for damage. For the fuel portion of this setup all you need are larger injectors and a larger fuel pump. The intank set up is the best Racetronix is a great setup but a little more money but well worth it, and the time it takes. Next after that would be a holly-wallbro. Then you would not need to worry about the inline pump and additional plumbing, which it looks like you dont have all of.
I would try and get your handheld tunner asap and get that tune down loaded if you are not going to go in for a dyno tune.
As for you air box plusating when you rev it up that is a good sign that bypass valve and that portion of the system is working correctly. You will only indicate boost under a loaded condition, around 3k and up, with WOT.
DUMP the FMU setup.
I would try and get your handheld tunner asap and get that tune down loaded if you are not going to go in for a dyno tune.
As for you air box plusating when you rev it up that is a good sign that bypass valve and that portion of the system is working correctly. You will only indicate boost under a loaded condition, around 3k and up, with WOT.
DUMP the FMU setup.
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i talked to the manufacturer today and i didnt have the setup correct due to instruction error they said....i changed some tubing around and all i have left is the fuel pump. i just wanted to know when to expect pressure to start changing, i dont plan on seeing 6 or 7 pounds until its tuned, im just tryin to learn from other peoples experience what to expect and whats way off normal...i am gettin the handheld tuner with the kit but its currently on back order....i already bought ls1 edit and im gonna use that instead so im probly gonna end up selling the handheld tuner...they also told me the vacuum hose for the surge valve is supposed to go into a vacuum line behind the "brake control box" behind the master cylinder somewhere.....i am not seeing this line but i do have it hooked up with a different vacuum line....no not the 1 by the fuel rail either, i dont mess with that stuff yet...over by the pcm is a small "check" valve im told...goes to a resevoir and comes of the manifold i think, kinda hard to trace it...i have my boost gage and surge valve lined up with that....if incorrect please correct me.....and if anyone else knows some little tools of the trade like bypassing the throttle body and what not plz let me know....the only thing i cant mess with is emissions ty
I found the best place to tie in for your vacume supply is the brake booster.(Brake control box, no such thing) It is the large round unit behind the master cylinder. It has the one large rubber line going to it, which connects to the plastic 90 deg fitting on the booster. Just tap in to this line for your vacume supply for your bypass valve and your boost-vac gauge. I think you should have gotton a large black typ of fitting from ATI for this?? Not sure I did not go with a full kit. But a trip to your local hardware store for fittings will work for this.
Good move with the LS1 Edit much better than the hand held tunner.
As for seeing boost you will not see any until engine is under load and above 3k.
What size crank and blower pulleys are you running. This will regulate your boost.
To find other mods do a search for free mods, TB bypass, TB stop, ect.
Good move with the LS1 Edit much better than the hand held tunner.
As for seeing boost you will not see any until engine is under load and above 3k.
What size crank and blower pulleys are you running. This will regulate your boost.
To find other mods do a search for free mods, TB bypass, TB stop, ect.
1)I put a tee into the vacuum line under the pcm right before the small check valve.Its a small line similar to the one you are hooking up so its pretty easy.
2) You need a tune...Don't try to remedy rich/lean fuel problems until you tune.
2) You need a tune...Don't try to remedy rich/lean fuel problems until you tune.