bypass valve?
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Flossin' twin turbos
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From: Chicago
bypass valve? i'm just finishing my FMIC setup and in the process of welding the flange for the bypass. but i'm figuring out where to put it before or after the IC or maybe close to the maf uptop. it's a vortech mondo race bypass so it's kinda big. 
Heres some info I found about turboed cars and about venting boost to atmosphere on a MAF car.
a BOV that vents to air will not make a car stall completely but it will make it bog down, in some cases it does give weird Idle problems.
But the reason for the boging is that when you are on full throttle, you reach redline, and then shift, the BOV releases all the static air into the atmosphere wich result in the next second or two of the car engine jerking.
In normal operation a pypass valve will recirculate all the static air back into the intake track, this is done to allow minimal pressure drop and a allow the turbo to keep spooling with the use of it own compressed air.
So the reason you feel that bog is becaue the ECU has already mesured the air and has set the air/fuel mixture acordingly, so when you vent to air, you are throwing the ECU off and causing the car to run very rich so rich that the fuel has a hard time combusting in the cylinders.
A vent to amosphere BOV should reall only be used if you are running a stand alone ECU, or if you are running a heavy spring in the BOV that will allow some of the boost pressure to remain in the intake track; high horspower cars use vent to air valves because those cars are usally producing in excess of 20psi, and well, it takes a while for 20psi to vent, so there is still some static pressure in your intake durring your shift.
If you ever heard a BOV on a civic its very short, but if you also ever heard it on a car like a Supra you will notice that its takes a while for it to finish venting, this is of course going from full throttle to closed throttle and no shift.
Like EK 2.0 said you should place the BOV as close to the Trottle Body as posible, but not so close that it creats turbulance and reduces HP, this make it more responsive and helps to prevent Trottle plate damage on higher Boost aplications.
a BOV that vents to air will not make a car stall completely but it will make it bog down, in some cases it does give weird Idle problems.
But the reason for the boging is that when you are on full throttle, you reach redline, and then shift, the BOV releases all the static air into the atmosphere wich result in the next second or two of the car engine jerking.
In normal operation a pypass valve will recirculate all the static air back into the intake track, this is done to allow minimal pressure drop and a allow the turbo to keep spooling with the use of it own compressed air.
So the reason you feel that bog is becaue the ECU has already mesured the air and has set the air/fuel mixture acordingly, so when you vent to air, you are throwing the ECU off and causing the car to run very rich so rich that the fuel has a hard time combusting in the cylinders.
A vent to amosphere BOV should reall only be used if you are running a stand alone ECU, or if you are running a heavy spring in the BOV that will allow some of the boost pressure to remain in the intake track; high horspower cars use vent to air valves because those cars are usally producing in excess of 20psi, and well, it takes a while for 20psi to vent, so there is still some static pressure in your intake durring your shift.
If you ever heard a BOV on a civic its very short, but if you also ever heard it on a car like a Supra you will notice that its takes a while for it to finish venting, this is of course going from full throttle to closed throttle and no shift.
Like EK 2.0 said you should place the BOV as close to the Trottle Body as posible, but not so close that it creats turbulance and reduces HP, this make it more responsive and helps to prevent Trottle plate damage on higher Boost aplications.
Originally Posted by libertine1015
Heres some info I found about turboed cars and about venting boost to atmosphere on a MAF car.
a BOV that vents to air will not make a car stall completely but it will make it bog down, in some cases it does give weird Idle problems.
But the reason for the boging is that when you are on full throttle, you reach redline, and then shift, the BOV releases all the static air into the atmosphere wich result in the next second or two of the car engine jerking.
In normal operation a pypass valve will recirculate all the static air back into the intake track, this is done to allow minimal pressure drop and a allow the turbo to keep spooling with the use of it own compressed air.
So the reason you feel that bog is becaue the ECU has already mesured the air and has set the air/fuel mixture acordingly, so when you vent to air, you are throwing the ECU off and causing the car to run very rich so rich that the fuel has a hard time combusting in the cylinders.
A vent to amosphere BOV should reall only be used if you are running a stand alone ECU, or if you are running a heavy spring in the BOV that will allow some of the boost pressure to remain in the intake track; high horspower cars use vent to air valves because those cars are usally producing in excess of 20psi, and well, it takes a while for 20psi to vent, so there is still some static pressure in your intake durring your shift.
If you ever heard a BOV on a civic its very short, but if you also ever heard it on a car like a Supra you will notice that its takes a while for it to finish venting, this is of course going from full throttle to closed throttle and no shift.
Like EK 2.0 said you should place the BOV as close to the Trottle Body as posible, but not so close that it creats turbulance and reduces HP, this make it more responsive and helps to prevent Trottle plate damage on higher Boost aplications.
a BOV that vents to air will not make a car stall completely but it will make it bog down, in some cases it does give weird Idle problems.
But the reason for the boging is that when you are on full throttle, you reach redline, and then shift, the BOV releases all the static air into the atmosphere wich result in the next second or two of the car engine jerking.
In normal operation a pypass valve will recirculate all the static air back into the intake track, this is done to allow minimal pressure drop and a allow the turbo to keep spooling with the use of it own compressed air.
So the reason you feel that bog is becaue the ECU has already mesured the air and has set the air/fuel mixture acordingly, so when you vent to air, you are throwing the ECU off and causing the car to run very rich so rich that the fuel has a hard time combusting in the cylinders.
A vent to amosphere BOV should reall only be used if you are running a stand alone ECU, or if you are running a heavy spring in the BOV that will allow some of the boost pressure to remain in the intake track; high horspower cars use vent to air valves because those cars are usally producing in excess of 20psi, and well, it takes a while for 20psi to vent, so there is still some static pressure in your intake durring your shift.
If you ever heard a BOV on a civic its very short, but if you also ever heard it on a car like a Supra you will notice that its takes a while for it to finish venting, this is of course going from full throttle to closed throttle and no shift.
Like EK 2.0 said you should place the BOV as close to the Trottle Body as posible, but not so close that it creats turbulance and reduces HP, this make it more responsive and helps to prevent Trottle plate damage on higher Boost aplications.
the air you are releasing is not metered air.for the vortech guys its a different story.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 1
From: Bellevue, Wa
right before the maf may make for some wackyness when it bypasses. your really gonna mess with air flow over the maf elements if you place the bypass right next to it.
dont forget how the air flows over the elements in the MAF is very important. thats why you always want as much straight pipe before and after it.
dont forget how the air flows over the elements in the MAF is very important. thats why you always want as much straight pipe before and after it.
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