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Pics of custom rearmount

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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 11:29 PM
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Default Pics of custom rearmount

This is the bracket that supports the turbo and oil pump...I tried to get one of it on the car but it was too dark for my phone..(ill post one later)
I will also post one of the Alky tank that fits into that empty spot where the air filter used to be.
Attached Thumbnails Pics of custom rearmount-turbo-bracket.jpg   Pics of custom rearmount-front-shot-engine.jpg   Pics of custom rearmount-side-shot-engine.jpg  
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:41 AM
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Pics are too small to see anything interesting.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:38 AM
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grab us some bigger pics
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 03:52 AM
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My eyes hurt....


John
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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im blind!
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Pics are too small to see anything interesting.
May not be anything interesting...just another rearmount...



sorry, i cant find the digital camera so i had to use my phone...heres another one to squint at

if you can see this one, it shows my oil problem..(that im thinking has to be a seal?? has done it ever since i got the turbo new)

Ill try and get some bigger ones posted
Attached Thumbnails Pics of custom rearmount-turbo-under-car.jpg  
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 03:48 PM
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If you don't mind me asking, What AR on the turbine are you using? If you have an oil problem then try using a restrictor or a needle valve to cut down the pressure to the turbo. That helped me with my custom kit. Also, are you running your pump on 12volts full time. What type of pump are you using? Lemme Know!
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 3800SII
If you don't mind me asking, What AR on the turbine are you using? If you have an oil problem then try using a restrictor or a needle valve to cut down the pressure to the turbo. That helped me with my custom kit. Also, are you running your pump on 12volts full time. What type of pump are you using? Lemme Know!
I was told to put a .035" restrictor in it (so i did, and still is) Yes, my pump is wired to the ignition so it is running all the time. It is a Mocal pump... If you know a solution that would be great, but im thinking at this point it has to be the seals...i am getting oil through my intake tubing and its covering up my maf and blowing out my bov...

and for the a/r .68
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:24 PM
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are you/have you run synthetic oil in this turbo since you got it? if so, that can be a major factor in your oil leaking problem, the oil is simply "too slipery" to let things "seat in"
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Yes thats all the turbo had in it was synthetic...its comming right out of the oil pan...there are tons of other people pulling the oil right out of their pan, and they arent having problemes with it...
so are you saying that if i just built a seperate tank and didnt run synthetic i would be fine? do you think it would be fine to do that now, or do you think the seals are damaged?
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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George at Turbo Technology told me not to run synthetic with the Turbo, I had a problem with mine blowing past the seals also...

Another thing to check, is to see what condition your pump is in. If the pump is worn out that can cause it also. Personally, the oil return pump is the downfall of a rear mount turbo. Nobody makes a return pump that is truely continuos duty.

Ryan K.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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The pump is brand new also...what did you have to do to fix your problem>? did you have to replace seals or just change oil and that fixed the problem?
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:31 PM
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on all the rebuilds we did, we would recomend using dino oil for the first 3k miles, then you 8should8 be okay with synthetics, but some times not... i prefer to not run sythetics, i have not seen anything so great about it, and have run my fair share of both syn and non....
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo-max
on all the rebuilds we did, we would recomend using dino oil for the first 3k miles, then you 8should8 be okay with synthetics, but some times not... i prefer to not run sythetics, i have not seen anything so great about it, and have run my fair share of both syn and non....
Are you saying not to run synthetics in my car???? or just build a seperate tank for the turbo and run non?? where do you pick up dino oil at?? i dont recall ever seeing it
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fletchls1
Are you saying not to run synthetics in my car???? or just build a seperate tank for the turbo and run non?? where do you pick up dino oil at?? i dont recall ever seeing it

lol,sorry for the confusion...just run normal "mineral based oil" aka dino oil aka NON synthetic oil for the first 3,000 miles of any new parts that require oil
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 10:40 PM
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i didnt even know you could run non synthetic oil in these cars...what about a seperate tank? im starting to think that would be a better way to go...i have an oil cooler and the pump...i could just put non in the tank to run all the time then...Do you think the seals are bad in the turbo then that i would need to replace them also?
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 06:09 AM
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the synthetic oil does not make the seals "bad", it is just that synthetic oil is sooo freaking slipery that the seal simply are not able to "seat in" properly, and yes you can run non synthetics in the car, i would run a 10/40 of any type of oil...any less and you might as well dump thin *** cooking oil in the engine IMO with the exception of VERY COLD climates, then run a thiner oil.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 09:15 AM
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You still need a 1-2psi check valve to keep the oil out when the engine is shut off. I have tried the restrictor too, but realized that I was just cuttting the pressure down just a little bit. If you are taking pressure off the oil plate then you are pushing about 60+ psi right before the restrictor. That is not even at WOT. It can really vary! You only need a trickle of oil into the turbine for around 5-10 psi max or otherwise the units will leak oil and smoke like you were on fire! Get a precision brass needle valve from Grainger or McMaster-Carr and cut the pressure down more. You may use a small oil pressure gauge to monitor the pressure goin into the bearing just to be sure. If it still leaks after all that then get a rebuild.

Use the fittings in this pattern for your oil pressure line: Needlevalve, Check Valve, Restrictor. Make sure the check valve and restrictor are closest to the turbo.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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Ok, so i talked to a guy at the local turbo shop..he seems to think that it is a drain problem and that the seals are fine...the drain on the turbo and the pump are pretty much a straight horizontal line and there is probably 6inches of 3/4" hose to get to the pump... i figured that the pump would create a vaccume on it and suck the oil out of the turbo (its a self priming pump)...is my theory correct?? any suggestions to help solve my problem??
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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The theory is correct, but you have to look at the fact that you still have so much pressure going into the turbo. Did you say that you were getting your oil pressure from the pan or you are returning the oil back to the pan? It makes a big difference. All in all you still need a check valve and a way to cut down the presure from the oil inlet. A friend of mine has the mocal pump and he seems to think that the pump may be pulling extra pressure through the bearing because of the vacuum. If this is the case then you can change the voltage on your pump to suit your needs. The vacuum from the pump on the oil outlet cannot exceed the pressure going into it by very much. You almost have to measure both sides with a gauge to get it right. The oil tubing size may be too big. Try switching to 3/8 transmission hose which will allow the oil to suck out a little faster.
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