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How much timing for stock power?

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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 01:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
The BOV you currently have re-circulates. If you had a larger one, that you could open somehow, surely it would be fine re-circulating following the path your current one does ??

It wont create any boost, and the MAF still wont see any extra air passing by it ??
OK I'll think about that. It's probably the "healthiest" solution.
Do you think the actual Bosch bypass valve is too small? Oh well, I can give it a try.
I just have to figure out how to keep it open... I think there is a vacuum tank that actuates the membranes to divert air (air conditioning, heat, cool and so on).

Thanks guys for your ideas! It was maybe the first thread to how de-tune a SC engine ans I wasn't expecting so many answers!
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 03:57 AM
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Why would you not expect a lot of replies? We've all spent lots of time thinking about how to screw competitors out of their horsepower.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 04:04 AM
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...ok, also when you know how to make HP you also know to reduces them.
Actually it's easier to reduce them!
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 04:17 AM
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By the way, don't the Swiss speak French and German? Congrats on being able to post understandably in English. Some of the Spanish speaking and French Canadians ask questions that noone can understand.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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My first language is Italian, French is like a second language and I live close to Zurich (German language) since 17 years...
I've no idea if my English is ok or not but I'm glad to see it's understandable - thanks!
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 11:32 AM
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one thing I'd do is put the stock cat back back on the car, that will quiet it down quite a bit, and if the loss of power from that is a concern, get an electric cutout.

Only other thing I could think of doing is pulley the car for as little boost as possible, and detune on top of that, get teh overall timing back into the 18 dgree range, I'd thiunk would mild it out quite a bit, that and your iat trick should do it.



Sounds like you should have went with a sneaky nitrous setup, probably would have been alot easier to hide.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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Changing pulleys etc isnt an option. He needs to be able to reduce power in an instant, if he gets pulled.

Anyone make a clutch drive for the blower ?
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Changing pulleys etc isnt an option. He needs to be able to reduce power in an instant, if he gets pulled.

Anyone make a clutch drive for the blower ?
Interesting to see who's reading the whole post and who doesn't...

Stevie you're right! This is the point. Just a click and I loose 150HP. Another click and the power is back.

Just to explain what I did: with a switch I can set a 255 ohm resistance in parallel to the IAT: this will result in a fake IAT of about 90 celsius.
The (LS1 Edit) table "IAT vs Load Timing" pulls 11* of timing in the fields 85-90 celsius at 95-100 kPa MAP.
I have a boost timing of 17*, with the "detuning switch" I have only 6* timing advance. You can clearly feel the difference if you actuate the switch under boost at WOT. I just don't know if this trick is reducing the power enough to be similar to stock (280 - 290 RWHP).

Stevie, look at this: it's a Mercedes Eaton M62 roots blower. This unit was used on the 98-03 Mercedes SLK230, C230 2.3L and utilises an electromagnetic clutch pulley.
Attached Thumbnails How much timing for stock power?-m62-1-.jpg  
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Anyone make a clutch drive for the blower ?
Didn't Mad Max have a clutch on the blower on his Interceptor?

-Geoff
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tici
My first language is Italian, French is like a second language and I live close to Zurich (German language) since 17 years...
I've no idea if my English is ok or not but I'm glad to see it's understandable - thanks!


No dude, your english is frickin' awsome! Hell, I wish some of our kids in US schools could write half as well as you do. Keep at it.


I have an alternative solution...turbo . Probably be best to do a rear mount system but with an boost controler inside the car, all you'd have to do is open the gate all the way up and keep them from "loading" the turbine up too much when you rev it up, if they ask you. Problem solved
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by White_Hawk
Didn't Mad Max have a clutch on the blower on his Interceptor?

-Geoff

That's another thought. Pleanty of lawn mowers today have electric power take off clutches. It might mean slipping the belt in some fashion, which could burn it throw and kill the blower, which wouldn't be a bad thing.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 03:16 PM
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Yeah, I was thinking the same thing: electromagnetic clutch similar to an air conditioning compressor clutch.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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I think the new Mercs use a electromagnetic clutch on their blowers.

Or another relatively cheap option.

Add water injection. And lots of it.
In small quanitities, it may have its benefits. But I imagine in LARGE quantities, it would dampen things quite a bit, and should be harmless to the engine.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I think the new Mercs use a electromagnetic clutch on their blowers.

Or another relatively cheap option.

Add water injection. And lots of it.
In small quanitities, it may have its benefits. But I imagine in LARGE quantities, it would dampen things quite a bit, and should be harmless to the engine.
Have you seen my previous post? That picture was for you (Mercedes blower).

Water injection: look at my dyno graph. The nice graph is with 5 GPH water/alcohol. The curve with the "hole" was with 10 GPH (gallons per hour).
I guess it needs a LOT to loose power.
At WOT it may be like DEEP THROAT and just swallow everything (have you evere seen the movie?)
Attached Thumbnails How much timing for stock power?-dyno.jpg  
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 04:20 PM
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ahh rite...I wodner how adaptable the blower pulleys would be ??

But the water, along with perhaps some for of retard.

Or another option. You can buy mechanical, or pneumatic cutouts for the exhaust, normally to remove restriction, and dump to open pipes.

Adapt that to make a restriction in the exhaust
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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choke the inlet side.

put the equivalent of a throttle body in front of the blower and have some way to open and close it.

when you want very little power close that throttle body 95% of the way and you wont see squat for power.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 05:32 PM
  #37  
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If I put together all the informations of this thread I think the easiest way is to open the bypass valve to discharge boost back to the blower.
The air will be metered correctly; it will just recirculate like crazy in the piping.
I just don't know if the original standard hole (about 20mm) will be enough for that amount of air. Something to try.
To throttle the inlet or the exhaust will work but it's more complicated.
I could also cut the injectors of 4 cylinders, only under boost and have only half of the power, but I'd prefer not to try.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 05:55 PM
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ummm the bypass is going to close under boost and not bypass a damn thing. or are you saying your going to rig up a way to make it so it never closes?

I seriously doubt your going to be able to recirculate that much air but give it a try.

as for choking the inlet. just modify an electronic exhaust cutout and your done. should be quite easy.
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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Get a Vortech Mondo BOV and re-circulate using it. It would be big enough, as thats what its designed for.

Im using a couple of Greddy Type RS BOV's ( 40mm piston/valve type setup, looks quite like a small external wastegate ) They vent to atmos now, but you could rig them up to re-circulate
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Old Jul 26, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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What a nightmare ! I feel for you Stefano. I cant believe all the bullshit you have to go through just to enjoy your car ! Those laws are insane ! Cant you just declare your additional power,clean up your driving record & get a radar detector ? How can you drive with that much stress ?
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