How much timing for stock power?
It wont create any boost, and the MAF still wont see any extra air passing by it ??
Do you think the actual Bosch bypass valve is too small? Oh well, I can give it a try.
I just have to figure out how to keep it open... I think there is a vacuum tank that actuates the membranes to divert air (air conditioning, heat, cool and so on).
Thanks guys for your ideas! It was maybe the first thread to how de-tune a SC engine ans I wasn't expecting so many answers!
I've no idea if my English is ok or not but I'm glad to see it's understandable - thanks!
Only other thing I could think of doing is pulley the car for as little boost as possible, and detune on top of that, get teh overall timing back into the 18 dgree range, I'd thiunk would mild it out quite a bit, that and your iat trick should do it.
Sounds like you should have went with a sneaky nitrous setup, probably would have been alot easier to hide.
Anyone make a clutch drive for the blower ?
Stevie you're right! This is the point. Just a click and I loose 150HP. Another click and the power is back.
Just to explain what I did: with a switch I can set a 255 ohm resistance in parallel to the IAT: this will result in a fake IAT of about 90 celsius.
The (LS1 Edit) table "IAT vs Load Timing" pulls 11* of timing in the fields 85-90 celsius at 95-100 kPa MAP.
I have a boost timing of 17*, with the "detuning switch" I have only 6* timing advance. You can clearly feel the difference if you actuate the switch under boost at WOT. I just don't know if this trick is reducing the power enough to be similar to stock (280 - 290 RWHP).

Stevie, look at this: it's a Mercedes Eaton M62 roots blower. This unit was used on the 98-03 Mercedes SLK230, C230 2.3L and utilises an electromagnetic clutch pulley.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I've no idea if my English is ok or not but I'm glad to see it's understandable - thanks!
No dude, your english is frickin' awsome! Hell, I wish some of our kids in US schools could write half as well as you do. Keep at it.
I have an alternative solution...turbo
. Probably be best to do a rear mount system but with an boost controler inside the car, all you'd have to do is open the gate all the way up and keep them from "loading" the turbine up too much when you rev it up, if they ask you. Problem solved
-Geoff
That's another thought. Pleanty of lawn mowers today have electric power take off clutches. It might mean slipping the belt in some fashion, which could burn it throw and kill the blower, which wouldn't be a bad thing.
Or another relatively cheap option.
Add water injection. And lots of it.
In small quanitities, it may have its benefits. But I imagine in LARGE quantities, it would dampen things quite a bit, and should be harmless to the engine.
Or another relatively cheap option.
Add water injection. And lots of it.
In small quanitities, it may have its benefits. But I imagine in LARGE quantities, it would dampen things quite a bit, and should be harmless to the engine.
Water injection: look at my dyno graph. The nice graph is with 5 GPH water/alcohol. The curve with the "hole" was with 10 GPH (gallons per hour).
I guess it needs a LOT to loose power.
At WOT it may be like DEEP THROAT and just swallow everything (have you evere seen the movie?)
But the water, along with perhaps some for of retard.
Or another option. You can buy mechanical, or pneumatic cutouts for the exhaust, normally to remove restriction, and dump to open pipes.
Adapt that to make a restriction in the exhaust
put the equivalent of a throttle body in front of the blower and have some way to open and close it.
when you want very little power close that throttle body 95% of the way and you wont see squat for power.
The air will be metered correctly; it will just recirculate like crazy in the piping.
I just don't know if the original standard hole (about 20mm) will be enough for that amount of air. Something to try.
To throttle the inlet or the exhaust will work but it's more complicated.
I could also cut the injectors of 4 cylinders, only under boost and have only half of the power, but I'd prefer not to try.
I seriously doubt your going to be able to recirculate that much air but give it a try.
as for choking the inlet. just modify an electronic exhaust cutout and your done. should be quite easy.
Im using a couple of Greddy Type RS BOV's ( 40mm piston/valve type setup, looks quite like a small external wastegate ) They vent to atmos now, but you could rig them up to re-circulate








