Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

How bad would this cam be for FI?

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Old Jul 27, 2005 | 08:33 PM
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Default How bad would this cam be for FI?

My cars always been NA with a small nitrous shot, but I've been pondering a blower (procharger) or a turbo setup instead of the bottle. I don't want to change cams though, and I know the convertor is too big (4200 stall). How bad are these specs for FI?: 228/236 112 LSA 108 ICL .588/.602 I think its an XE-R grind. I also have MTI stage 2 heads milled .030 if that matters. Perhaps the compression might be too high to even consider FI? Its a stock bottom end too (for now). Thanks for the help!
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Old Jul 27, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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looks like a good blower cam...not so great of a turbo cam though.and id be guessing your CR is definitely too high
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Old Jul 27, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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that's pretty extreme for a blower cam,I'd sell it and go with a stock one and spend the money on a good fuel system, you're probably at 11:1 now, you'll be lucky if you can run 5 lbs max with very conservative timing. Get some different heads like truck heads or stock 243's and that'll be a good starting point. Unless you're planning on changing your engine setup you won't see the nice gains you can get by going forced induction.

tell ya what forced induction is more fun than nitrous cause your power is always there.
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Old Jul 27, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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hed basically have to start from scratch unfortunately
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Old Jul 27, 2005 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TS6
My cars always been NA with a small nitrous shot, but I've been pondering a blower (procharger) or a turbo setup instead of the bottle. I don't want to change cams though, and I know the convertor is too big (4200 stall). How bad are these specs for FI?: 228/236 112 LSA 108 ICL .588/.602 I think its an XE-R grind. I also have MTI stage 2 heads milled .030 if that matters. Perhaps the compression might be too high to even consider FI? Its a stock bottom end too (for now). Thanks for the help!
When working with a supercharger cam, the duration should be about a 8-10 degree split. You do not need dramatic lift numbers, because you are forcing air in, .600-.615, Lower the number for lower CI and larger number for bigger CI. and for duration there are two schools of thought, thought 1, 115-117 LS. This school of thought will allow cylinder pressure to build, however the downside, is that getting the old air out and the fresh air in quick enough will be an effort as there will always be used air in the chamber which can equate to higher cylinder temps. Idle quality is very nice and well behaved.

School of thought #2, 108-112LS. This is a little hard for most people to swallow. This LS will allow some of your incoming boost to bleed out of the Cylinder. however, you are using a supercharger and are forcing air in. which means you will always be able to bleed off the used air and will always have nice clean cool air for the combustion cycle. The myth that you cannot get a cam with this lobe sep to idle correctly is just that, a myth. If you cant get it to idle right then you probably shouldnt be tuning in the first place. The key is to raise the timing. Raising the timing will make a 108-112ls car idle very close to the 115-117. You only need to change the timing in the idle section of the timing table. With this LS you also will get more power out of the engine itself.

Food for thought.
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Old Jul 27, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TS6
My cars always been NA with a small nitrous shot, but I've been pondering a blower (procharger) or a turbo setup instead of the bottle. I don't want to change cams though, and I know the convertor is too big (4200 stall). How bad are these specs for FI?: 228/236 112 LSA 108 ICL .588/.602 I think its an XE-R grind. I also have MTI stage 2 heads milled .030 if that matters. Perhaps the compression might be too high to even consider FI? Its a stock bottom end too (for now). Thanks for the help!
One other little tid bit. The stock crank is really on good to about 500RWHP reliably.People on the forum are making more than that with the stock crank, but the grim reaper is standing by.

You should be able to keep everything you have, and run no more than 8 PSI. all you need to do is take your heads off and open them up to 72cc then you will be good to go for the blower or turbo.
I would highly recommend against the blown setup with 11.1. Way too many opprotunities for disaster.

More food for thought.
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Old Jul 28, 2005 | 09:42 AM
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I make 754rwhp with the stock crank and have gone 144mph. I have at least 30 dyno pulls with this crank too.
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Old Jul 28, 2005 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TS6
My cars always been NA with a small nitrous shot, but I've been pondering a blower (procharger) or a turbo setup instead of the bottle. I don't want to change cams though, and I know the convertor is too big (4200 stall). How bad are these specs for FI?: 228/236 112 LSA 108 ICL .588/.602 I think its an XE-R grind. I also have MTI stage 2 heads milled .030 if that matters. Perhaps the compression might be too high to even consider FI? Its a stock bottom end too (for now). Thanks for the help!
1) Optimally, turbo and supercharger cams are different when you get to high hp levels, but for 400-500rwhp combos I think many simple cams like a 224/224//114 provide added duration to make more power but still below 6500. If I was pushing 9psi or more, or say 550-700rwhp, I would probably step up to something like a 226/232 split but that's just me.

2) Sounds like you might be at 10.5:1 compression now. Not ideal, but it can work for 400-500rwhp but you will need good tuning to make sure the combo is not on the edge.

3) Your cam has a lot of overlap, so it's not optimal but like most cams that size it will probably make more midrange power than a stock cam. Peak should be higher too, but it might die off sooner than say if you ran a cam with less overlap @ .050.
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