hmm... I'm putting my money on the e-boost hitting the overboost setting and cutting you in half before it had a chance to meet. There's still some power on the table, make sure your tuner knows wtf he's doing too. These setups are tricky.

 

Maybee the car never made it to 5250rpm? the Tach is off, correct? the graph is no longer up.

 

I am sure it made it to 5250 but like Armageddon said it looks like it never got a chance to cause of the eboost, but with saying that the eboost is cool with the overboost function I am just a dumb *** for not setting it for the higher boost.

 

your rwhp seems about right. torque down low seems low though but you do have a complete exhaust too. heres what i got in my turbo dyno files for similar setups:

99SS-t-phamspeed kit-t76-10psi-531rwhp/534rwtq....100% bonestock engine
chevyNO1- incon twins- 9psi-533rwhp/567rwtq.......100% bonestock engine
"unknown owner" QMP- PTE 63 trubo- 9psi- 534rwhp/687rwtq.....100%stock engine w/ LS6 intake and open exhaust.

 

Well I will say this. It felt like there was alot of lag going on to get the turbo going. That could be do to the tune. Maybe a better tune would get more out of it. Some day I wanna take it to someone that knows how to tune this setup.

 

^that would be wise

 

I definetly wouldn't be disappointed, your numbers arent bad especially for the first round of tuning. How much timing is it running?

 

not sure. The guy really just got it tune for WOT and I still think its rich. He never used HPT before. My idle is super rich and he couldn't figure out how to adjust it. When I get money I will have some one do the whole thing for me. Just don't know who yet.

 

I agree, those are decent numbers for 10 lb. on a stock motor.

 

The tq and hp curves do not cross because the hp column on the left is not scaled the same as the tq column on the right.

 

all i know is that with that big of a turbo and running the header kit theres no way the car would max out at not even 5000rpms and drop like a rock....especially when boost is at ~3k.I think you need an intake at the least....and someone who can tune it right and then you'll pick up more and the graph will make more sense.

 

i dont believe its the intake. its gotta be that eboost. if you are dropping down to 4 psi than its the controller or something wrong with the WG which i doubt due to it being brand new. but i know for a fact a stock bottom end ls1 cars dyno graph looks diff. than that. it carries the tq and hp "farther" throughout the rpms. i had the old q m p kit and it carried 540+rwtq from 3800 to redline. look at MM graph on the latest video. mine looked like that it just didnt go as high

 

My thoughts exactly...

 

this is taken from another site and why hp/tq should always cross

HP= a measure of forced over time, where 1 hp is equal to 550 lbs lifted one foot in one second. Expressed in terms of torque, 1 hp equals 550 ft/lbs per second. Noticed this measurement is time based.

Torque= the measure of instantaneous rotational force an engine can produce. Notice this measurement is not time based.

hp= torque x RPM / 5252
torque= hp x 5252/ RPM


With these two basic equations, you can figure out how much hp or torque you have at a given RPM with either measurement. Notice that because of this equation, an engine can NEVER make as much hp before 5252 RPM as it can torque, and the opposite is true above 5252 RPM. Any dyno chart you ever see where the two plotted curves don't cross at 5252 RPM is a bogus dyno chart.

What's important to understand as this pertains to vehicles is that hp is not a direct determinate to accelerative ability. Horsepower is more a way of easily summarizing the abilities of a car, but not an exact or necessary thing. Horsepower is basically a way of stating torque with gearing already taken into account, which makes the pain of figuring out torque multiplication factors less needed for generalized performance figures. Here's the three most important factors in determining how fast a car can accelerate...

-effective torque at the wheels
-overall vehicle weight
-available traction
-total drag (constituted mainly of aero drag at speeds above 50mph)

Since we are just talking about differences in power and how it effects acceleration, we can basically toss out everything except torque since the others can be assumed to remain constant(please remember this is just a simple hypothetical). So now you need to understand what torque multiplication is, and here's an excerpt from an older post I made on the subject...

"What this all means comes into focus when you understand the concept of torque multiplication.
Torque is the only productive force that an engine creates, so when talking about acceleration
relative to gearing this is all that matters. Torque multiplication takes the torque output of the
engine at any specific RPM and multiplies it by the overall gear ratio (think of this as gear
reduction) to show us how much torque is actually being transmitted to the wheels at any given
speed and in any given gear. An example:

Engine A is making 150 ft/lbs of torque at 3000 RPM, and is in our earlier hypothetical 1st gear
which has a ratio of 3.42:1 and a final drive of 4.27:1.

Effective torque at the wheels @ 3000RPM = 4.27 x 3.42 x 150...
which equals 2,190 ft/lbs of torque to the wheels! Ever wonder why acceleration is always better
in lower gears than higher gears? That's why. The true accelerative ability of a car is defined by
these laws, and in the most pure sense torque at the wheels is all that matters (meaning HP is
not directly important or a determinate of potential speed). "


So knowing all this new stuff, you should be starting to see the big picture. Now you have the
definitions of horsepower, torque and torque multiplication, along with a basic understanding of
what they mean. All the concepts surrounding this haven't been covered here, so if anything isn't
clear or I forgot something important please just say so, and either I or someone else can fill in
the blanks. Hope this helps, peace

 

thank you quicksilverado, took another look at the graph and your right. Reason it doesnt cross is the scaling used on hp vs tq... If you pick a point on the graph and use the calculations i posted above it all comes out as GOOD. So the graph is not bogus. Sorry for posting that but i think we can all learn that if the scaling for hp and tq are not the same it wont cross at 5252. I dont think i was the only one wondering why it didnt cross.... YOU LEARN SOMETHING NEW EVERY DAY...

 

well Hellraiser i say we chip in and get you a good tune after you get the Eboost sorted out and id still recommend getting an intake as theyre cheap.Then really dyno it and see the difference....no more dropping off at ~4750

 

Like I said the Eboost did its job. I just didn't adjust it from my last setting. I am sure the drop is from 9.5psi to 4psi. I sure there restriction on all my stock stuff but not that much to make it drop like that. A better tune would help down low thats for sure, but till I have money and time what I have will have to do. I will fix the drop by setting the overboost higher then 9.5., the eboost does alot of cool things I just have to get it dialed in.

 

You weren't the only one but then I noticed what quicksilverado posted and that shed some light on it... I'm just not used to looking @ graphs like that. Nonetheless, Hellraiser good numbers and keep tweaking on that sucker.

 

Nothing wrong just a safety feature of the Eboost. I made the mistake by not raising it from the last time I set it. I think once I adjust that the drop will flating out some. But what do expect going from 9.5-10psi to 4psi....

 

lol you pay I will play