Anyone running a vacuum pump??
08-18-2005, 07:28 PM
#22
Being the cheap a$$ I am, I had to check eBay for a DIY solution... hmm, this is belt driven too. It's always cheaper when the OEM makes it!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VACUU...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VACUU...QQcmdZViewItem
08-19-2005, 07:29 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by speedz06
How is a vac pump gonna reduce blowby?I can see benifits but explain to me the blowby thing.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...bc/index3.html
The primary function of a beltdriven vacuum pump is to stabilize the piston rings so there is only pressure on one side of the compression ring, as well as to reduce crankcase windage for better oil control (more power). The vacuum pump creates an atmosphere inside the crankcase ranging anywhere from 13 to 15 inches of vacuum on a wet sump (higher on dry-sump systems) and literally sucks out any blow-by inside the crankcase to promote a better ring-to-cylinder-wall seal. Conventional engines that don't utilize a vacuum pump generally have pressure on both sides of the rings, which not only hinders the ability of the rings to seal against the cylinder wall, but also poses resistance to descending pistons, robbing more power. It's important to note that while many applications can benefit from a vacuum pump, it's best suited to attempting to extract every last bit of power, and can be worth up to 20 additional ponies.
08-19-2005, 07:41 PM
#24
FormerVendor
I would never spend the money for the 20hp. I bought a vacuum pump for 2 reasons.
- To reduce the possibility of oil getting into the combustion chamber (and lowering octane)
- To eliminate oil seepage due to crankcase pressure, and to get rid of the damn open breathers that dripped oil on my headers.
That being said, I've got mine pullied for a target of 7-8in of vacuum at 6500.
- To reduce the possibility of oil getting into the combustion chamber (and lowering octane)
- To eliminate oil seepage due to crankcase pressure, and to get rid of the damn open breathers that dripped oil on my headers.
That being said, I've got mine pullied for a target of 7-8in of vacuum at 6500.
08-19-2005, 08:23 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by INTMD8
I would never spend the money for the 20hp. I bought a vacuum pump for 2 reasons.
- To reduce the possibility of oil getting into the combustion chamber (and lowering octane)
- To eliminate oil seepage due to crankcase pressure, and to get rid of the damn open breathers that dripped oil on my headers.
That being said, I've got mine pullied for a target of 7-8in of vacuum at 6500.
- To reduce the possibility of oil getting into the combustion chamber (and lowering octane)
- To eliminate oil seepage due to crankcase pressure, and to get rid of the damn open breathers that dripped oil on my headers.
That being said, I've got mine pullied for a target of 7-8in of vacuum at 6500.
Different engine... A really high boost piston oil squirter 4 banger is a different animal than a v8... Not too worried about splash lube with the squirters.
On nitrous, high compression, high boost engines its more than 20... Combine high boost and a low tension napier ring setup and its WAY more than 20hp...
You are right however that just the evacuation itself is worth it.
Last edited by V8_DSM_V8again; 08-19-2005 at 11:05 PM.
08-24-2005, 05:52 AM
#27
One of my mechanics has a third gen Camaro that has a new high rpm engine combo with low tension rings. Tuning on my dyno, his car kept blowing out gaskets, even took out the pan gasket! He put a Moroso vacuum pump on it which took care of the whole problem, plus the engine even sounds crisper!
I'll bet you'll see a big difference on these LS engines with a pump added, as we have seen a lot of these engines pop the dipstick up, even when the engine is completely healthy. Bob
I'll bet you'll see a big difference on these LS engines with a pump added, as we have seen a lot of these engines pop the dipstick up, even when the engine is completely healthy. Bob
08-24-2005, 11:55 AM
#28
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At high enough boost levels even a really tight normal tension hand filled ring packed 4g63 will pop a dipstick...
I have never seen a low boost or NT one do it that is a healthy engine...
My dipstick stays put at 35psi.... AMS should try one in their shop evo they are pushing 42psi....
I know the 327TT ls1 I build will be sporting one...
I have never seen a low boost or NT one do it that is a healthy engine...
My dipstick stays put at 35psi.... AMS should try one in their shop evo they are pushing 42psi....
I know the 327TT ls1 I build will be sporting one...
08-24-2005, 01:02 PM
#30
Actually I was hoping to hear more feedback about that OEM pump from the Cadillac. Was it's original application to create a vacum in the crank case??
Originally Posted by 69firebird
I like that OEM vacuum pump, I just dont see something like that working as well.
the hardest part for our cars is going tobe getting it to fit somwhere
the hardest part for our cars is going tobe getting it to fit somwhere
08-25-2005, 10:36 AM
#32
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Found this info on using OEM pumps for Crankcase evacuation from a company that makes vaccum pump systems for drag cars.
Most OEM air pumps work great for a little while, but the factory units were not designed to be used in an oily environment. The general pump design is very sound they've proven themselves to be efficient and durable thanks to their heavy duty bearings and high airflow potential, they just need some modifications on the inside to make them compatible with oil. The Ford design pumps significantly out perform all other pumps, except the really high dollar aftermarket pumps. The only problem with an OEM pump direct from the factory is that the components inside were designed for oil-free air. In an oily environment they tended to lock up after only 15-35 runs because they have little carbon parts in them that are designed to be run dry. When oil gets in them it's like sandpaper and they last just a very short period of time ...and then they lock up.
Most OEM air pumps work great for a little while, but the factory units were not designed to be used in an oily environment. The general pump design is very sound they've proven themselves to be efficient and durable thanks to their heavy duty bearings and high airflow potential, they just need some modifications on the inside to make them compatible with oil. The Ford design pumps significantly out perform all other pumps, except the really high dollar aftermarket pumps. The only problem with an OEM pump direct from the factory is that the components inside were designed for oil-free air. In an oily environment they tended to lock up after only 15-35 runs because they have little carbon parts in them that are designed to be run dry. When oil gets in them it's like sandpaper and they last just a very short period of time ...and then they lock up.
