What do ya think???
What do ya think??? Well I orderd my PTK kit with a t70 a while back so hopefully I will have it buy the middle of next month. 
Also right now I already have my 255 fuel pump, 232 240@ 595 608 cam, tsp hardened push rods, PP gold valve spring kit. I am hopeing to be at around 550rwhp at this time.
Since I have to keep overdrive I am going to swap my 4l60e for a t56 with steel shift forks and hope it will survive. Any other trans options I need to know about, I am going to buy tomarrow, so the sooner the better.
This is where i am at right now.
I am going to get a 9in rear next.
Then i am going to try and get a sdpc 402 forged low compression shortblock with a good set of heads (recomend?). AFR 225?
Does this look like a deacent setup??
My goal is about 650rwhp for the street and maybe 850-950rwhp for the track. I might be upgrading to a T88.
Could a T76 be enough?
What about my fuel system?
Basically I am very open at this point.
Any help would be apreciated, while i sacrifice my money to the hp gods.
Also right now I already have my 255 fuel pump, 232 240@ 595 608 cam, tsp hardened push rods, PP gold valve spring kit. I am hopeing to be at around 550rwhp at this time.Since I have to keep overdrive I am going to swap my 4l60e for a t56 with steel shift forks and hope it will survive. Any other trans options I need to know about, I am going to buy tomarrow, so the sooner the better.
This is where i am at right now.
I am going to get a 9in rear next.
Then i am going to try and get a sdpc 402 forged low compression shortblock with a good set of heads (recomend?). AFR 225?
Does this look like a deacent setup??
My goal is about 650rwhp for the street and maybe 850-950rwhp for the track. I might be upgrading to a T88.Could a T76 be enough?
What about my fuel system?
Basically I am very open at this point.Any help would be apreciated, while i sacrifice my money to the hp gods.
T-76gtsh and t-88 are very similiar in top end power(88 naturally gets the edge as its bigger) however jose reccomended that I go with the 76gts, as I was going to go with an 88 he said the 76 would make pretty much the same power and spool alot faster
that cam is way overkill imo
you may be melting clutches if you go to the m6. just something to think about. Another thing if you go to a manual you're gonna have a hell of a time try to get that thing to hook especially with that much power. I'd keep the a4 and get it built.
you may be melting clutches if you go to the m6. just something to think about. Another thing if you go to a manual you're gonna have a hell of a time try to get that thing to hook especially with that much power. I'd keep the a4 and get it built.
I would like to keep an auto but I have to keep an OD and the 4l60 wont handle that much power. I was thinking of the textralia clutch.
Remember that cam will be in a 402 down the road.
Remember that cam will be in a 402 down the road.
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cam and then nicely built 4l60e. Mine works great after spraying many o bottles out of the hole on a 175shot I am sure I put down more power and way quicker than you will be. They can hold at your level.
If you did find a map sensor that reads 2.5 or 3.3 bar, what computer program would be scaled to read those odd sensors? As far as I know, output is still 0-5 volts on any of them.
there is a map sensor scalar in efilive (and I would imagine HPT too) that allows you to adjust that. According to their docs you get teh (1)BAR kPA reading and then adjust the scalar with the (x)BAR so that the kPA readings are the same. clear as mud?
im running a small 220ish cam on my 408, it made 432hp and 450tqNA with 8:5:1 compression. You guys ruin your setups with these cams, my car idles at stock points and drives like it too.
OK, what cam would you recomend then? Btw when i say I dont think the 4l60e will handle the power i am talking after the 402 when the power will be around 800rwhp for the track. That is the cam that epp recomended for my setup. They had a vette on stock cubes put down like 750rwhp with it. Btw why would it ruin the setup, better flow is better flow weather you have boost or not.
You need to buy a GT7 cam from LPE, you came to the right place for good advice. Check out LPE's site for specs. Or call CC and have them custom grind one for you. Also I'm sure there are many here that can suggest other comparable great cams too! Just because a cam has big numbers doesn't mean it's going to be better with FI.
Wolfee
Wolfee
need a reverse split cam for FI, traditional split for N/A motors is for better scavenging, but with a N/A cam in a FI motor, the turbo will "blow" the intake charge right out of the chamber, especially at high rpm/high boost levels...i dont know why EPP recommended that came unless they thought you were gonna run N/A....if you're hesitant from takin advice from "internet experts", then by all means get a hold of a good turbo company and talk to them about it, there's no such thing as too much info
SSU Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,857
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From: Austin, TX
here's what I would do.
- Ditch that cam (you can make weeeeeellll over 550rw with the stock cam. The beauty of FI is stock around town driving then being able to mash the gas
- Build the fuel system once. I'd copy MM's set up (dual walbro in-tanks, -8 feed, good rails and regulator, and the stock feed like as the return)
- A GOOOOOOD tune. Start with the T70 on that kit, and make sure all the other items are in line and you'll make the power.
- Build that trans up. You should be fine with the 4L60E up past 700rw with proper maintenance
- Get a good meth kit. its easy insurance and easier than swaping and filling specific gas
- The kit is good past 1000rw I'm sure, so you have room to grow there, the fuel system I listed is at least good to 900+rw with methanol. You can eventually get a T88 on a 402 (dont go smaller on turbo for that size motor). However, at that point, I'd look at getting a BS3 or similar aftermarket ECU.
- Ditch that cam (you can make weeeeeellll over 550rw with the stock cam. The beauty of FI is stock around town driving then being able to mash the gas
- Build the fuel system once. I'd copy MM's set up (dual walbro in-tanks, -8 feed, good rails and regulator, and the stock feed like as the return)
- A GOOOOOOD tune. Start with the T70 on that kit, and make sure all the other items are in line and you'll make the power.
- Build that trans up. You should be fine with the 4L60E up past 700rw with proper maintenance
- Get a good meth kit. its easy insurance and easier than swaping and filling specific gas
- The kit is good past 1000rw I'm sure, so you have room to grow there, the fuel system I listed is at least good to 900+rw with methanol. You can eventually get a T88 on a 402 (dont go smaller on turbo for that size motor). However, at that point, I'd look at getting a BS3 or similar aftermarket ECU.
OK you got me, I will stay auto. I think i might still try this cam for a bit just to see, although I believe you guys will be telling me "I TOLD YOU SO" LOL.
I can afford to try it out, if its a no go i will get the gt7 or something similar.
I can afford to try it out, if its a no go i will get the gt7 or something similar.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Stick with stock cubes if you're going turbo, a 402 doesn't really do anything but choke off the turbo sooner and spin the tires harder from a slow dig.
oange ss: Not true. A more "N/A" orientated cam does increase overlap and scavenging, and what does scavenging do for you? That's right, it increases VE% and increases power. The same holds true for a turbo car. And the intake charge isn't going anywhere, there's enough backpressure in the exhaust for the intake charge to not "blow through" the chamber. The cam I run in my car is 248/236 on a 111 LSA + 4 and it makes lots of turbocharged power. I know everybody hates Hondas, but why do you think a little 110 cubic inch motor can make 500 WHP on 93 octane gas? Big cams and lots of overlap. An average factory honda vtec camshaft is 236/224 @ .050. The cams we run in a friends turbo setup are 263/255 @ .050 on a 106 LSA and the power gains over some turbo cams (233/235 @ .050 114 LSA) were massive. Here's a good thread to illustrate how much power some big cams can get you. The gains at some points on there are 75 ft-lbs of torque, and we're talking about a motor that made 421 torque at peak before the cams. Peak to peak gain is 110 WHP and 35 WTQ.
Just my 2 cents.
oange ss: Not true. A more "N/A" orientated cam does increase overlap and scavenging, and what does scavenging do for you? That's right, it increases VE% and increases power. The same holds true for a turbo car. And the intake charge isn't going anywhere, there's enough backpressure in the exhaust for the intake charge to not "blow through" the chamber. The cam I run in my car is 248/236 on a 111 LSA + 4 and it makes lots of turbocharged power. I know everybody hates Hondas, but why do you think a little 110 cubic inch motor can make 500 WHP on 93 octane gas? Big cams and lots of overlap. An average factory honda vtec camshaft is 236/224 @ .050. The cams we run in a friends turbo setup are 263/255 @ .050 on a 106 LSA and the power gains over some turbo cams (233/235 @ .050 114 LSA) were massive. Here's a good thread to illustrate how much power some big cams can get you. The gains at some points on there are 75 ft-lbs of torque, and we're talking about a motor that made 421 torque at peak before the cams. Peak to peak gain is 110 WHP and 35 WTQ.
Just my 2 cents.