ATI Install Tips
12-24-2001, 04:28 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Woodlyn, PA
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ATI Install Tips I have a couple usefull pictures but I broke my week old camera already. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> Time to go buy that warrenty. Sit tight for pics... I hope theyu wont be lost when the camera goes back. <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">
The pump tested good and is pretty loud, not like whiney loud, but buzzy. As for pulling back the carpet, bump that. I cut a slice in the carpet underneath the passenger seat. Shhhh.
What we did to fix the kinking problem was route the plastic (kinky.. hehe) line back to the stock location... right next to the fuel filter. We ran to Pep boys and got some Fuel Injection hose and the special hose clamps (they look like little muffler clamps... very nice IMO). We just took out the short peice of hose GWP had assemble for us and stuck in a 2 foot peice to do a nice gentle bend over to the plastic line tied near the fuel filter.
After the pump is in it's gravy. With 3 sets of hands we had the rest of the install done in about 5-6 hours, not including plug change and check valve install. We didn't yet bother with the splash guards yet either.
The hot wire for the pump can follow the brake/fuel lines all the way up to the car. They are tucked away and have various heat shields in critical hot spots. Use split loom for abrasion protection.
My fan "shroud" came in 2 peices. They are meant to over lap eachother when bolted together. I was looking around for a plate to join the 2, but no go. They bolt right together.
A quick tip when breaking loose the crank bolt: take off the inspection cover on the driver side. It's plastic and held in by a 10mm bolt. Say hello to your flywheel. Have a buddy turn the crank until you can see holes. Stick a medium length phillips head driver into one of the holes to hold the crank from moving. It should brace itself but if you have an extra guy have him hold it in place.
Our impact gun didn't break loose our crank bolt. Count on having a Big breaker bar and piece of pipe for more leverage.
A few pieces of advice on the plumbing... get the Y pipe mounted as close to the rad support as possible. When you do this it will hang no lower than the air dam if you reinstall it.
Also the 90 deg metal tube with the bypass valve fitting (not the little peice that holds the vlave inplace, the bigger tube) is tricky. It comes up thru a hole in the body under the fuse box. Jam it up as high as possible and have a buddy install the rubber hose that goes onto it. THen you can pull it back down carefully and adjust as necesary.
The pass side intercooler interfered with a vaccuum resivior so it will be mounted cockeyed. Not a big deal, just keep it in mind. It's also tricky to fit you fingers inbetween the rad support to drop in your bolts. Maybe one of those little grabber things from Sears would make that part easier.
My stock pump still has trouble making up for the added volume of the aermotive pump. If I WOT in 3rd or above, the pressure will drop until I let out of it (this is pre-blower). I have my hobbs switch adjusted almost all the way out to come on at like .5 lb of boost.
Here's how to check you electrical work:
HOBBS SWITCH/FUEL PUMP: bridge the terminals of the hobbs switch.
FAN WIRING: once the car is done and running, turn on your AC, your relay will click. Check the fan is pulling air in the correct direction.
Overall I'm impressed with the kit. There were a few things not covered in the instructions and a few trips to the parts store but when it was time to fire it up, it lit right up with no SES lights. Thumbs up.
The pump tested good and is pretty loud, not like whiney loud, but buzzy. As for pulling back the carpet, bump that. I cut a slice in the carpet underneath the passenger seat. Shhhh.
What we did to fix the kinking problem was route the plastic (kinky.. hehe) line back to the stock location... right next to the fuel filter. We ran to Pep boys and got some Fuel Injection hose and the special hose clamps (they look like little muffler clamps... very nice IMO). We just took out the short peice of hose GWP had assemble for us and stuck in a 2 foot peice to do a nice gentle bend over to the plastic line tied near the fuel filter.
After the pump is in it's gravy. With 3 sets of hands we had the rest of the install done in about 5-6 hours, not including plug change and check valve install. We didn't yet bother with the splash guards yet either.
The hot wire for the pump can follow the brake/fuel lines all the way up to the car. They are tucked away and have various heat shields in critical hot spots. Use split loom for abrasion protection.
My fan "shroud" came in 2 peices. They are meant to over lap eachother when bolted together. I was looking around for a plate to join the 2, but no go. They bolt right together.
A quick tip when breaking loose the crank bolt: take off the inspection cover on the driver side. It's plastic and held in by a 10mm bolt. Say hello to your flywheel. Have a buddy turn the crank until you can see holes. Stick a medium length phillips head driver into one of the holes to hold the crank from moving. It should brace itself but if you have an extra guy have him hold it in place.
Our impact gun didn't break loose our crank bolt. Count on having a Big breaker bar and piece of pipe for more leverage.
A few pieces of advice on the plumbing... get the Y pipe mounted as close to the rad support as possible. When you do this it will hang no lower than the air dam if you reinstall it.
Also the 90 deg metal tube with the bypass valve fitting (not the little peice that holds the vlave inplace, the bigger tube) is tricky. It comes up thru a hole in the body under the fuse box. Jam it up as high as possible and have a buddy install the rubber hose that goes onto it. THen you can pull it back down carefully and adjust as necesary.
The pass side intercooler interfered with a vaccuum resivior so it will be mounted cockeyed. Not a big deal, just keep it in mind. It's also tricky to fit you fingers inbetween the rad support to drop in your bolts. Maybe one of those little grabber things from Sears would make that part easier.
My stock pump still has trouble making up for the added volume of the aermotive pump. If I WOT in 3rd or above, the pressure will drop until I let out of it (this is pre-blower). I have my hobbs switch adjusted almost all the way out to come on at like .5 lb of boost.
Here's how to check you electrical work:
HOBBS SWITCH/FUEL PUMP: bridge the terminals of the hobbs switch.
FAN WIRING: once the car is done and running, turn on your AC, your relay will click. Check the fan is pulling air in the correct direction.
Overall I'm impressed with the kit. There were a few things not covered in the instructions and a few trips to the parts store but when it was time to fire it up, it lit right up with no SES lights. Thumbs up.
