Cool28

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys I'm on my 3rd oil pump for the turbos and it still smokes again. Is there any way to get rid of the pump? I was also thinking of putting a inline filter before it goes into the pump. I hate starting it up and drive like 1min and just see a smoke screen behind me. Any ideas?

red ws6 99

A few people replaced the scavenge pump with another one. I have also been looking at for a mechanically driven one. I have been trying to find one like the nascar guys use, they run off the drive shaft.

You can easily add a inline filter before the scavenge like tilten recommends. Just about any inline filter should work. The maximumm flow of the pump is only 2 gpm, and can handle quite a bit of head loss. Just try to get one that has a very low pressure drop. I have not sized one yet, but I diffently plan on doing this. We are bound to get some casting flash into the scavenge pump if a filter is not in the line.

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

Where can I get a inline oil filter from? I think that would stop my problems. I would think I would have to what change it every 3-4 oil changes. If you have a online address I'll go look it up and try it. which line is the enter line?

red ws6 99

The kind of inline filter I was thinking about would be sintered bronze or stainless steel. Just take it out once in a while and wash it off.

The inline filter I use at work (Norman) are way to expensive at around $200 - $1000. So probably one of the inline fuel filters would probably work, but have not looked at delta pressure vs flowrate curves. Since were are talking low pressure and low flow an Earls (made by Holley) would work. I think they have some with at least 1/2" connections.

Looks like the following inline hydraulic filter from McMaster should work:

Part number 9800K43 $25.87

It has 1/2" npt fittings, viton seals which are good in oil. With a sintered bronze filter that can be cleaned and is rated for 25 gpm so should not cause hardly any pressure drop for the pump. I could not find pressure drops curves, so cant say for sure how well it would work.

It has replacable cartridges but should not need them:

Part # 9800K34 $6.27

Hope this helps

Gary

[ January 01, 2002: Message edited by: red ws6 99 ]</p>

Edster

iTrader: (15)

I'd get an Inline filter from a dry sump setup. They put them before the scavenge pump, and they don't restrict flow much. They are basically a screen to stop metal chunks from damaging the scavenge pump when the motor blows. You can get them from jegs or summit and they fit like regular an fittings.

Mark C

Are you sure that pieces of metal are causing the pump to leak? The turbos get filtered oil from the engine. I suppose, as you suspect, that casting flash from the turbo bearings (are those cast parts?) could become dislodged over time, and comtaminate the pump, but I think the majority of that would happen shortly after initial startup - and we've all gone through multiple pumps to clean that away.

I know that Bruce Kaiser replaced his Tilton pump with a vane style type that he got from Turbo Connections.

I've not had any problems for 10+ months on mine. Have you heard of any others with issues?

red ws6 99

Tilton just recommends a 20 mesh strainer, but I figured if a filter does not cause a flow restriction then it cant hurt. I was more worried about flashing or anything from the housing. At anyrate no there should not be problem without the strainer/filter. If there is any foriegn material then it should take out the pump when the system is first installed, then you should not have anymore problems.

Twenty bucks (or what ever you buy) provides piece of mind. The Tilton pumps wont take any abuse so it could not hurt.

Cool28, Who setup up your system. Is the pump leaking from the same spot between the head assembly and the electrical motor. There is not to much to the pump. Is the problem the check valves in the pump or the viton membrane. How does the membrane look any particulate on it or holes.

The other problem could be excessive heat the pumps are only rated to 265 deg F, so they will take a beating even at 200-220 deg F.

Gary

TwinSS

Gary has it right! There is not much to the pump, that is after I dissected it for months earlier this year looking for the problem it was having. I have seen a few torn viton diaphragms causing the pump head to leak at the seam where the cap is bolted on. The check valve is also simple as the support buttons for the flaps will be either tight in place or loose and possibly have fallen out causing the flaps to malfunction and stop pumping oil. I have not seen a pump yet that has failed using the new check valve. I have seen one which was replaced and the original o-ring was not removed (Check for this issue Todd), similar to what you don't want to do when replacing your engine oil filter, and it caused a leak between the cap and body. Also, the temps should not be a factor as we tested the oil temps coming out of the turbos before the scavenge pump and were only seeing 164 degrees max while at WOT. Water cooling the housings definitely works. I believe Bruce Kaiser actually changed to the Tilton due to noise. Mark C., glad to see yours is holding up finally.
Tom Porter <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Cool28

iTrader: (2)

HEy Tom Hows it going. Nah the last one you sent out was a brand new one. I can check the check valve but it did the same thing the last time as its doing now. Also this time though its leaks at the seam to. I'll check it out.