Swapping head gasket (weeping a little)
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I'm swapping my passenger head gasket this weekend. I've done it 7 times before so it's no biggy to me. However has anyone succesfully drained the coolant out of the block to get the heads drained? I just hate it when coolant pours on the floor and into the cylinder bores. I've learned to use a wet vac to get the fluid out of there (including the bolt holes) but I was hoping to avoid the whole situation by draining the block.
Anyone? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Anyone? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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To quote former president Ford.
"Ain't gon'a do it!"
<small>[ April 16, 2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: 2000 Camaro SS ]</small>
"Ain't gon'a do it!"
<small>[ April 16, 2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: 2000 Camaro SS ]</small>
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Is that an IOWAian or ALASKAN way of saying that it cannot be done?
Say whatcha mean boy! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Say whatcha mean boy! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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My mech seems happy just to blow it out with the air gun. Asked him about using anything else and he says he's NEVER had a problem. Full time C4/C5.
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Yeah I've never had a problem either except for cleaning the mess that falls on the floor pistons and bolt holes. Also I don't like blowing coolant all over my perfect paint and engine bay. I prefer to wet vac it up. I've done compressed air to blow the bolt holes out but I use a rag around it to catch any spray that might get airborne. I vac out most of it anyway with a tube that I attach.
In any case I was able to get my answers from a couple of sources. All the pro's say the same thing. They don't want to waste the time draining the block. Just let it pour out and blow the stuff out and wipe down the cylinders and pistons. Then your done.
As SJH mentioned there's a screw in plug in the back that should do the trick. I'll try it and let you know how it works. Although it looks like no one really cares much about the mess. Damn I must be a neat freak or someting...LOL <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Thanks for the help guys.
In any case I was able to get my answers from a couple of sources. All the pro's say the same thing. They don't want to waste the time draining the block. Just let it pour out and blow the stuff out and wipe down the cylinders and pistons. Then your done.
As SJH mentioned there's a screw in plug in the back that should do the trick. I'll try it and let you know how it works. Although it looks like no one really cares much about the mess. Damn I must be a neat freak or someting...LOL <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Thanks for the help guys.
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chasgiv3, you mean you've done the "gasket" replacement seven times? Why is that?
How long does it take you to change out a head (or replace and remove the heads) on the LS1?
Thanks!
How long does it take you to change out a head (or replace and remove the heads) on the LS1?
Thanks!
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Black LS1 T/A, I've done it seven times just not all on my car. My car was one of the first heads and cam cars done in the Chicago area on the LS1. When I did my car I had the help of my friends in the MFBA and we did it in my garage. I did some 40 hours of research tring to make sure I had everything squared away. But alas some things were missed. For one....the torque specs changed from 1998 to 1999 in the form of a TSB. I used the 1998 specs assuming nothing changed. So when I drove the car after installing EVERYTHING I quickly realized that the drivers head gasket was weeping. So we took it all apart again on the drivers side and went to work to figure out what happened. Once I was made aware of the new specs I followed those. In addition I made sure that the head and the block surfaces were absolutely clean and free of any gasket material. I actually roughed up the surface of the head just slightly to make sure it gripped the head gasket. Then tightened the head down to the proper specs on both sides. But now running on Turbo boost and hundreds of runs on the car....the passenger heads started to weep. So now I'll do the same process on the passenger side.
I also helped with friends cars to put thier heads and cam motors together. Actually three other cars. That's how I came up with that number.
I also helped with friends cars to put thier heads and cam motors together. Actually three other cars. That's how I came up with that number.
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Black LS1 T/A, the first head swap itself took 2 full Saturdays to do. Course we also had to do the cam in the same timeframe. The cam added a bunch of things that had to be done also that used a lot of time.
1. Remove the radiator
2. Remove the charge from the A/C
3. Remove the crank pulley/balancer
4. Remove the timing chain etc.
All in all it was really rewarding to do the work in my own garage.
I figure I can swap both heads now in about 8 hours with standard tools. Use an air compressor and air tools and you can cut that time down to about 6 hours with two guys doing the work.
I think the local speed shops do a whole heads AND cam in about 5 hours. Thank God I don't have to do this for a living..LOL...I'd go broke! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I had to remove the Turbo and lines on the passenger side yesterday so it took me a while to do it.
1. Remove the radiator
2. Remove the charge from the A/C
3. Remove the crank pulley/balancer
4. Remove the timing chain etc.
All in all it was really rewarding to do the work in my own garage.
I figure I can swap both heads now in about 8 hours with standard tools. Use an air compressor and air tools and you can cut that time down to about 6 hours with two guys doing the work.
I think the local speed shops do a whole heads AND cam in about 5 hours. Thank God I don't have to do this for a living..LOL...I'd go broke! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I had to remove the Turbo and lines on the passenger side yesterday so it took me a while to do it.
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I used to really enjoy working on my car. I still would, but the joints of my hands hurt now, with a lot of wrenching and turning.
Guess I'm getting too old for a lot of that stuff. I envy you that.
I'd do a lot more myself if I could go the distance. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Guess I'm getting too old for a lot of that stuff. I envy you that.
I'd do a lot more myself if I could go the distance. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
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Black LS1 T/A, I totally understand. I'll be 41 in may and already things are taking longer to heal. Weird injuries too. Tearing muscles and weird pains. My hands are real sore now. I'm thinking about buying a real air compressor that can run some air tools. That would make things a lot easier. Especially on the heads. The head bolts have a LOT of thread to them.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by chasgiv3:
<strong>Black LS1 T/A, I totally understand. I'll be 41 in may and already things are taking longer to heal. Weird injuries too. Tearing muscles and weird pains. My hands are real sore now. I'm thinking about buying a real air compressor that can run some air tools. That would make things a lot easier. Especially on the heads. The head bolts have a LOT of thread to them.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Since we're sharing ages <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> , I'll be 45 in October.
Years ago, I would go over to my Uncle's house and crawl around under a car from daybreak until night-fall without thinking about it.
Now, if I do that for more than a half day, I can count on being sore for a while. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
<strong>Black LS1 T/A, I totally understand. I'll be 41 in may and already things are taking longer to heal. Weird injuries too. Tearing muscles and weird pains. My hands are real sore now. I'm thinking about buying a real air compressor that can run some air tools. That would make things a lot easier. Especially on the heads. The head bolts have a LOT of thread to them.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Since we're sharing ages <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> , I'll be 45 in October.
Years ago, I would go over to my Uncle's house and crawl around under a car from daybreak until night-fall without thinking about it.
Now, if I do that for more than a half day, I can count on being sore for a while. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
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I saw the head gasket yesterday.
Looks like it was weeping around #4 but #6 was starting to go too... I think Chas is gonna post a pic.
Looks like it was weeping around #4 but #6 was starting to go too... I think Chas is gonna post a pic.
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Hi, if you don't use the drain plugs then you could have a monster syringe and a bucket close by, ready to suck up the water from the bores. That's what I usually do on my own stuff. Mike.
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I have the pics but haven't posted it. I got lazy in the end and just allowed the coolant to spill onto the floor where I had a very large pan to catch the spill. I also had a wet/dry vac ready to rock. I just sucked up the coolant from the cylinder bores. Then wiped them out.
I used an air compressor to blow out the blind head bolt holes. I used a rag to keep the mist down. I hate getting anything on my paint.
I used an air compressor to blow out the blind head bolt holes. I used a rag to keep the mist down. I hate getting anything on my paint.
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Charlie, what changes were made????
do you have the TSB, or could you quickly jot down what the changes were?????? I did my heads off the 98 manuals, also, and since I've got the car opened up, if I can do it properly I'd like to....
do you have the TSB, or could you quickly jot down what the changes were?????? I did my heads off the 98 manuals, also, and since I've got the car opened up, if I can do it properly I'd like to....
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<img src="http://www.mfba.org/instructions/headspecs.jpg" alt="" />
Here are the 99 specs with the TSB included in the new specifications. Follow these and you should be all good. I believe they added more degrees of tightening in the new spec.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ May 08, 2002, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: chasgiv3 ]</small>
Here are the 99 specs with the TSB included in the new specifications. Follow these and you should be all good. I believe they added more degrees of tightening in the new spec.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ May 08, 2002, 09:17 AM: Message edited by: chasgiv3 ]</small>
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Ive got the 98 manual, and it list those specs, so I should be OK.
The only TSP I could find only mentioned replacing the M8 bolts instead of reusing them.
good, now I don't have to pull anything apart again!!!
The only TSP I could find only mentioned replacing the M8 bolts instead of reusing them.
good, now I don't have to pull anything apart again!!!