2001WS6Vert

I melted a piston and scored the cylinder. I want to do my homework so as not to screw up again. I am trying my best to keep the price down. Up towards $50,000 in a Trans Am is getting ridiculous. I don't know if my block can be salvaged. I am going to have a machine shop examine it. Valvegod has new LS1 blocks for $550.00 or the late 2001-02 for $800.00. I have an 01 and think it is the earlier one (I'll have to check the casting number. Is anything to be gained by changing to the later one? I definitely am going with forged dished pistons with ARP rod bolts. Do you think I should get aftermarket rods? Should stay under 600 HP and 6500 rpm. I will get the head studs too. Is there a better head gasket I should get? I am going to improve the heads + cam. I heard the 6.0 head is a good economical choice. Should I port them? I heard that they reduce compression so maybe I should not get dished pistons. Any cam recommendations?Any other th <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> ings that I should look into? Any good machine shops near Cincinnati that are familiar with the LS1 and have the equipment to help.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I was in the same situation as you.. I am having a new shortblock built with forged pistons with valve reliefs.. All the stuff you mentioned above as well.. Later I am purchasing a set of 6.0L heads and have them ported and polished.. I want my compression between 9.1:1 and 9.5:1.. I am planning on getting around 600rwhp as well. I am going to run NA for a while until I get the money saved for the FI project.. I am sure someone in your area will chime in about a local shop. If not it would be worth it to take the car to a reputable place and let them build you a setup with a warranty.. FI on a ls1 is still new. So you are going to have to play it safe until more knowledge is known.. Or you will be in the same boat again..

Black LS1 T/A

A for what RPMs to keep it to, The lower the RPMs, the easier it is on your tranny. Of course, then torque becomes a consideration. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

gogogadgetcar

sounds like we're in the same boat I put two cracks in a cylinder wall and shattered a piston.

I just bought one of the newer blocks from valvegod (he's a cool guy) for 800 I never could get an answer on how much of an improvement it realy was over the older models on the forumns but v.g. told me it had better low-end breathing which helped make a little more hp and rev faster. I just figured newer was better so dished out the extra $300.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

2001's have shown to produce more power, but it could have just been the intake..

2001WS6Vert

I think now that I will extend the R.P.M. range to 7000. I'm looking at the head/cam thing now--its very complicated. It also seems like there is more imformation for a N/A motor out there than a F/I motor. If modifications have to be made to the trans., converter or rear end so be it. I just want to put this thing together right and want it to be a killer set-up. I am staying at 350 C.I. though.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I would build the motor to take FI first and then get the blower. Yes, doing it right the first time pays off.. I know.. I should have built the motor long time ago when I first wanted to go FI, but I was talked out of it. No biggie, I will do it right this time.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

2001WS6Vert

I wish I had done it that way, but I supercharged the motor first, blew up the motor second, and built the motor third. Ha Ha.