WHAT? Only 170? Is that cuz the bikes shutdown? Or you like to keep the car righ-side up? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

If we run out of tire we'll get a bigger one. Lets see where was the number to the guys that narrow rear-ends...... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

HAHA... <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

 

I cracked my ringland due to a failed fp regulator. Went lean and boom. I like the big cube low boost theory. I just couldnt afford it so stock cubes it is for me. If the weak heads are warping around the fasteners, big cubes and low boost (15 psi) may be the only solution. I'd like to see if 15psi with alky injection can be very reliable. I think that it could.

 

How much horsepower are you guys talking about.. 550 to 650rwhp is achievable I believe with a forged 346ci and 10 to 15psi of boost easy. You just have to get the tuning right..

 

Actually my goal was:
550RWHP at 7lbs of boost
600RWHP at 10lbs of boost
That was on the stock short block.

My new goal is:
800RWHP at 10-11lbs of boost

This is on the 406CI Iron block with forged internals. 6.0 Liter truck heads and a 8.7:1 CR.

Course with the adjustable boost I can bring the boost down for more civilized driving or to run the car in pump gas without any fear of DOTC!

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JAS:
<strong>Hey Black LS1 T/A, how much do you think that monster will loft off 1/4 ET with the same traction aide's you use now?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I overlooked this question...

I already plan on working on the traction issue, It's untenable as it is even right now. With no additional tracion, I'd expect only a few more tenths gained at the top of the quarter-mile. But with a better hook-up, I'd like to see another second. :AWordOfPrayer:

I intend to intall SFC's (wanna keep the chassis from twisting too much) and a better Panhard right off the bat.

I've been looking at changing to 15" wheels and getting a taller tire... maybe 28". But I'll see where I am with my 16" wheel and my 26x11.5 M/T ET Streets first. My 16x8 wheel is too narrow. Even though it STILL gets more traction than my BFG DR's or Nittos ever did, I don't have full contact with those width tires. M/T guys estimated I was only getting about 3/4 of the capability of the tire, with it on an 8" rim.

 

I am planning on being conservative.. I think if I decide to go crazy the max boost on my forged 346ci will be 12 psi. I am leaning toward a single turbo unless someone talks me out of it when the time comes. I might even just for out the extra dollars for a bigger turbo and run less boost for the same horsepower I will get at 12 psi.. Who knows.? My main concern is reliable transportation. Plus, I want to see more than 5 forced induction cars last longer than a year on the road driving 1k miles a month.. When I see that I will pull out the credit card.

 

Chasgiv,
you will need to flow 90lbs+/min of air for 800RWHP.
That will be very hard to do with only 406 cubes and 10-11psi and 8.7-1.
A 406 cube motor might take in 725cfm or so N.A . which is only around 50 lbs/min considering a normal street/strip type motor head and camming.
You would need to bump that up to around 1300+cfm.
I think it will take more boost than you think for that goal.
Steve

 

I think the question is more "do you want a street motor or a race motor"

Big cubes are going to spool the turbo sooner, the bigger air pump is going to spool the small one faster. This is good on the street, but at the track coming off the transbrake at some ungodly rpm it doesn't matter as much.

Look at the Scranton Bros single turbo Mustang that at 3200 or 3300 lbs has ran 190+ mph, it is around 375 ci? Look at Bob Reigar's first Duttweiler built motor when he was running the S10 in NMCA. Two big twins, big boost, and a less than 400 ci engine (later he got a 427 sbc). I think this is due to the smaller bores being easier to control detonation on. Jr Granetelli's single turbo Mustang that put down 1800 rwhp is 5.4 liters, etc etc etc and on and on.

For a "race motor" where you'll always have fresh high octane fuel and will be monitoring the combo often high boost and low cubes seems to work really well. I guess Harlan's stock 346 counts under that definition <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> If you just want to jump in and cruise, goof off, and race it some then bigger cubes and less boost seems like a lot less headaches. Just my .02

J.

 

I want a street motor.... I cant keep up with the Jones.. If everyone keeps breaking stuff I will be the Jones..

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If everyone keeps breaking stuff I will be the Jones.. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">lol!

I have been able to get 65lbs/min no probelm out my modded non intercooled G-trim. It is just about maxed out. Have about 3500 impeller rpm left before it hits max impeller speed.
I already found 0 top end flow difference between a stock cam and a HotCam surprisingly.
nada ,nothing. Not a single lb/min change in flow.I did advance it 3 degrees though.
N.A. it did lose about 35 hp from the hotcam though.
The stock 98 cam bleeds off nothing with a 119LSA and has better low and midrange. So I am actually going to run a stock cam.
Modified heads though of course.I opened up the chambers to 73cc and polished them while I was at it.
I run a lot of timing with the added alcohol and it has a strong pull with excellent response.
I consider this an excellent street/strip combo.
346 Forged piston,~9.5-1 compression, 11psi max boost with water alky.Makes the most of the boost/flow I have to work with.
Power to run high 9's in a light car with race oriented chassis and gearing or mid 10's in a milder heavier street setup.
I can't imagine to much more low end torque on the street as this thing is all over the place and you darn sure have to be pointed straight to punch it even with 2.73 gears at 60mph.
But that's no serious race setup.
I have to sitback and watch from the sidelines as you guys search for 7,8 and 900 hp <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Should be entertaining to read about it.
Steve

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Crazyquik:
<strong>I think the question is more "do you want a street motor or a race motor"

Big cubes are going to spool the turbo sooner, the bigger air pump is going to spool the small one faster. This is good on the street, but at the track coming off the transbrake at some ungodly rpm it doesn't matter as much.

Look at the Scranton Bros single turbo Mustang that at 3200 or 3300 lbs has ran 190+ mph, it is around 375 ci? Look at Bob Reigar's first Duttweiler built motor when he was running the S10 in NMCA. Two big twins, big boost, and a less than 400 ci engine (later he got a 427 sbc). I think this is due to the smaller bores being easier to control detonation on. Jr Granetelli's single turbo Mustang that put down 1800 rwhp is 5.4 liters, etc etc etc and on and on.

For a "race motor" where you'll always have fresh high octane fuel and will be monitoring the combo often high boost and low cubes seems to work really well. I guess Harlan's stock 346 counts under that definition <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> If you just want to jump in and cruise, goof off, and race it some then bigger cubes and less boost seems like a lot less headaches. Just my .02

J.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">this is true to a point, but from what i've been told these guys runs motors that i've always preached for n/a performance but i just get yelled at about it....

big bores and short strokes

some of those big turbo/blower cars in NMCA have big block like bores and short strokes to come out to those 380-390" because they are cubic inch limited and having the bigger bore to make your inch requirement will unshroud the valves more and make more power than a motor with just more stroke

 

race motor eh?? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

It's a street car, i don't know what you're talking about <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 05:47 PM: Message edited by: y2khawk ]</small>

 

I am going to be conservative on the timing.. I do not want to have to use alky or race gas when I get on her.. What do you guys think would be the max for a forged 346ci with 9.1:1 compression
? I am referring to max boost and around 21 degrees of timing.

 

Exactly the initial boost of 15 for me.

The twins, with what compressor maps i've managed to find, will flow just about 40 lb/min each at a pressure ratio of 2. And still be well within the center island on efficiency.

That's assuming ideal conditions. It will take more boost than that for me to actually get 80+ lb/min into the motor.

The intake system has be layed out in consideration for this. The manifold is heavily mod'ed to let the air in. Low end is going to suffer however. The IC is huge. The core is rated for < 1.5 psi drop at 1200 CFM. Big plumbing, etc.

The intake side is air friendly.

346 cu in, 8.7:1 CR <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
still sitting in my kitchen <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SJH:
<strong>Chasgiv,
you will need to flow 90lbs+/min of air for 800RWHP.
That will be very hard to do with only 406 cubes and 10-11psi and 8.7-1.
A 406 cube motor might take in 725cfm or so N.A . which is only around 50 lbs/min considering a normal street/strip type motor head and camming.
You would need to bump that up to around 1300+cfm.
I think it will take more boost than you think for that goal.
Steve</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You could be right. Have to find all my math work on why I should be able to do this. I'm prepared to go as high as 15PSI if I have to. But then again I'm trying to keep things together for a little while. I guess I'll find out. I think the conservative tuning I have in mind should keep the detonation gremlins away. Unless of course I push it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

 

I only have 382 ci and going to run about 8 psi hoping this will give the hps that I want without running 12-15 psi boost I will know soon <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2bseen:
<strong>I only have 382 ci and going to run about 8 psi hoping this will give the hps that I want without running 12-15 psi boost I will know soon <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What kind of power do you want. I don't know whether you have an all bore, or stroker motor, but there was a guy on this board who used to have a 382 stroker, and only ran pretty low boost i think it was 5-8 lbs any way i think he made about 600rwhp.