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how cold and what type of plugs?

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Old 06-13-2002, 09:14 PM
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Default how cold and what type of plugs?

i have the set up below(except for 5psi of boost) and am having detonation problems, someone here sugested i go with a plug that is 2 or 3 ranges colder than stock, i think i have some ac delco red 8's that i think are one step colder. what do you all think? more than one range? even 3 ranges colder? what plugs are in those ranges?

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: parish8 ]</small>
Old 06-14-2002, 12:33 AM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

i have no idea what a red8 is but i would think the heads if the same as a standard ls1 head, you could use an ngk tr6 or an autolite 103 those are both 1 heat range colder.. 3 is too much, go 1 at a time.. normally its the tuning not the plug.. you will need to get ahold of a-tap and monitor your timing, knockretard, and air-fuel ratio.. it may very well be something nothing to do with the plugs, like a bad fuel pressure regulator or a bad fuel pump.. what compression is that engine?
Old 06-14-2002, 06:36 AM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

red 8 is suposta be like a ngk tr6, one range colder. i have next to no timing and a shitload of KR, i am prety sure i have some tuning issues, just wondering if the plugs could be contributing to some of my KR
Old 06-15-2002, 12:06 AM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

tr6 gapped at .035
Old 06-15-2002, 01:46 PM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

well if you have a stock plug, i would pull them and inspect them for something ugly.. and install (only because im comfortable with the brand and they are cheap to try) the autolite 103's and gap them low to .03-.04

changing them wouldnt hurt, but im pretty sure your problem is else where and you need some equipment to find out.

<small>[ June 18, 2002, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: MIGHTYMOUSE ]</small>
Old 06-15-2002, 10:29 PM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by parish8:
<strong>i have the set up below(except for 5psi of boost) and am having detonation problems, someone here sugested i go with a plug that is 2 or 3 ranges colder than stock, i think i have some ac delco red 8's that i think are one step colder. what do you all think? more than one range? even 3 ranges colder? what plugs are in those ranges?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">When I said try the plugs 2-3 ranges cooler I was thinking you may have stock heat range plugs which will help cause detonation most of the time on boost, with the whipple and no intercooler I think you should have no problem with a plug 2 ranges cooler because of the off idle boost and the heat produced by the supercharger.
This will only be a small help with the detonation, I think you have bigger tuning issues, getting the headers and a free flowing exhaust will help. The A/f ratio needs to be lower than normal LS1 superchargered cars because you have no intercooler, a 11-11.5:1 under full boost will help. Your total timming should be no less than 15 at WOT because you lose a lot of power and it dosen't help that much with detonation below that point, so try 15 and see if you stop the knock, if it goes away you can always raise it to get more power.
One question, you had a 5.3 and went to a 6.0 engine did both engines have the same CR or does the 6.0 engine have more? This will have a big effect on detonation. My guess is your using the best pump gas you can find (92-94 octane) to try and get rid of detonation.
Just some info to work with, sometimes things get over looked so hope this gives you some ideas to work with good luck.

<small>[ June 15, 2002, 10:34 PM: Message edited by: WS6underPRESSURE ]</small>
Old 06-15-2002, 11:23 PM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

15deg, now that would be nice, below is a atap log, check it out. this was a 90deg day. i fried my front diferetial, maybe from the 4wd(yank, whipple, 6.0) launches i have been doing. for now i have to get that fixed and then some exhaust and then i have some serious tuning to do, something is way off with the numbers that i am geting from atap. take a look at the timing and KR i am geting, you will be amused. not sure what the CR of the 5.3 was but the 6.0 is only 9.2-1

the IAT is at the air filter box so it isn't correct, i am buying the best gas i can, 92 octane, and i even tried some xylene at, estimated final octane of 95. that helped a little, it just took slightly longer before the detonation set in, this atap log is for the 92 gas

RPM mph MAF O2 O2 TP temp IAT ADV KR gm/cyl
0574 00 01 0.62 0.72 000 180 127 -11 00 0.17
0609 00 06 0.92 0.93 100 180 086 10 05 1.12
2922 06 23 0.89 0.91 100 180 086 12 04 0.88
3298 16 25 0.90 0.91 100 180 097 10 04 0.85
3514 23 27 0.90 0.92 100 180 086 07 07 0.87
3884 29 31 0.91 0.91 100 180 093 07 06 0.91
4462 33 37 0.92 0.93 100 180 086 06 08 0.93
4943 38 40 0.91 0.92 100 180 093 05 07 0.92
4815 43 34 0.91 0.89 100 180 093 06 08 0.81
3477 45 27 0.90 0.90 100 180 093 06 07 0.87
3601 48 28 0.90 0.90 100 180 088 06 08 0.88
3783 51 29 0.88 0.90 100 180 095 05 07 0.88
3941 53 32 0.89 0.89 100 180 086 04 08 0.92
4078 56 33 0.88 0.88 100 180 086 06 07 0.92
4261 59 35 0.89 0.89 100 180 097 06 07 0.92
4433 62 36 0.90 0.89 100 180 088 08 06 0.93
4591 65 38 0.88 0.90 100 180 097 06 06 0.95
4726 67 40 0.89 0.89 100 180 093 06 05 0.96
4880 70 40 0.89 0.88 100 180 095 06 05 0.93
5011 72 42 0.88 0.88 100 181 091 07 05 0.96
4950 73 37 0.88 0.87 100 181 095 04 08 0.86
3535 75 27 0.84 0.85 100 181 086 04 08 0.88
3558 77 28 0.85 0.86 100 181 084 05 07 0.89
3618 78 28 0.86 0.86 100 181 095 04 07 0.88
3640 80 29 0.85 0.87 100 181 082 06 06 0.91
3718 81 30 0.86 0.86 100 181 093 05 06 0.92
3792 81 30 0.85 0.85 100 183 084 07 06 0.91
3833 83 31 0.84 0.84 100 183 093 04 06 0.92
3851 85 31 0.84 0.85 081 183 082 46 00 0.90
3224 82 02 0.13 0.13 000 183 113 50 00 0.06
0564 00 01 0.83 0.82 000 187 122 17 00 0.16
0562 00 01 0.84 0.83 000 187 122 17 00 0.16
562 00 01 0.82 0.81 000 187 122 17 00

<small>[ June 15, 2002, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: parish8 ]</small>
Old 06-16-2002, 01:42 AM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

well you should really wideband it but guestimating from those 02 numbers your way to lean.

richen that thing up if you can.
Old 06-16-2002, 09:01 PM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

From your atap it looks like you are running lean, for 5psi of boost you'll probably need an A/F ratio of 12:1, as you up the boost you'll need to go lower, to get the A/F correct you need a wideband O2 like Blackbird had mentioned.
I have never seen the timing that low with that much KR. With the A/F set at 12:1 you should be able to run 15 deg advanced or more with out KR.
The 9.2-1 CR is good, the 92 octane is good for the boost your running, when you get more fuel you should be in good shape.
Can you hear the engine pinging? Just thinking you may have some false knock with a KR reading that high, if the engine is noisy or the exhaust has rattles that may cause false knock.
Let us know how things turn out.
Old 06-16-2002, 11:04 PM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

i don't hear knock, sometimes just one ping and then it is gone, i think it is real knock because with zylene it lessened some and when it is cold it has less KR, but i want to tune it for a 90deg day because we see pleanty of them around here. i was going to try and tune it some before the exhaust but several things have come up so by the time i get back to tuning i bet my exhaust will be here. i am hoping the exhaust somehow reduces my knock.

i will do a search but maybe one of you can tell me what kind of wide band o2 i need?
Old 06-17-2002, 06:19 PM
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Default Re: how cold and what type of plugs?

The exhaust work should help reduce KR because it will cut down on combustion temp. by allowing more exhaust flow with less pressure, it all depends on how restrictive the stock exhaust is.
As for the wideband O2 the best and cheapest way to test is to find a place to run the truck on a dyno. most places will have a wideband that you can use during the pull.
If you try to buy a wideband O2 system, from what I've seen they run between $500-1000.



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