blown bitch w/problems
#1
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i'm soooo new to this supercharger stuff and i have a lot of questions u guys can probably answer. i've used nos in the past but decided to go w/the s trim vortech on my 99 a4 formula. it also has heads/cam/headers/12bolt/turbo350/etc.
anyway after dynoing it (495/480) i keep hearing about tuning the car w/the supercharger...what does that mean? what is there to change? i've already had my computer sent off for 8 lbs but have the 4lb pulley on it right now. how does it get tuned? i read in another post about a guy who got his car back but something about the fuel in higher rpms not being right. how the heck do u know that stuff and how do u fix it?
i also had 2 bolts back out of my car and have hardly raced it at all since i've gotten it out of the shop. the motor i have in it now is a rebuilt motor...nothing fancy just a rebuild. do i REALLY need to get an iron block b/c of the problems i have heard from the aluminum block ls1s>? or can i go w/what one of the other guys is doing and spend the 400 on bolts and 200 on those agostino gaskets?
any help would be appreciated...i'm SOOOOO tired of having problems.
btw...do any of u guys also have a 12 bolt and if so does it seem to vibrate a lot>?
tia
trish
anyway after dynoing it (495/480) i keep hearing about tuning the car w/the supercharger...what does that mean? what is there to change? i've already had my computer sent off for 8 lbs but have the 4lb pulley on it right now. how does it get tuned? i read in another post about a guy who got his car back but something about the fuel in higher rpms not being right. how the heck do u know that stuff and how do u fix it?
i also had 2 bolts back out of my car and have hardly raced it at all since i've gotten it out of the shop. the motor i have in it now is a rebuilt motor...nothing fancy just a rebuild. do i REALLY need to get an iron block b/c of the problems i have heard from the aluminum block ls1s>? or can i go w/what one of the other guys is doing and spend the 400 on bolts and 200 on those agostino gaskets?
any help would be appreciated...i'm SOOOOO tired of having problems.
btw...do any of u guys also have a 12 bolt and if so does it seem to vibrate a lot>?
tia
trish
#2
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i tried the ls1 edit but we could not get into the computer....the guy who did it out in california (eclipse) has locked the computer. i dont' know that i would be able to auto tap it either but i'll try that.
as far as the drive shaft i got an aluminum one brand new...so i don't know if that would be the problem..i just know that over 3000 rpm it vibrates ALOT.
thanks
trish
as far as the drive shaft i got an aluminum one brand new...so i don't know if that would be the problem..i just know that over 3000 rpm it vibrates ALOT.
thanks
trish
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Did you get the ds before or after the rearend?
The auto tap should be fine to see into the computer I would think as you are just reading the sensors.
Steven
The auto tap should be fine to see into the computer I would think as you are just reading the sensors.
Steven
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hey trish this is alberts friend chris didnt you get a better torque arm because that will cause cabin vibration too. I know my did. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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Rear end vibrating <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> Nope not at all. Couple of questions did you get the 1350 yoke on the pinion? If so did you get the conversion u-joint? Did you get a new driveshaft with the 12 bolt? some do I just think that is prob more of where the vib is coming from as i dont see the rear vibrating a ton. I would look at the other things (lugs tight, driveshaft in correctly, everything ballanced and running correctly.
As for seeing the car how it is doing they have differant programs
auto tap, ls1 edit (allows changing of peramiters where auto tap just. Then there is a scan master.
I personally have not used these so I will let others who have say which is best worst etc.... From the sounds of it the ls1 edit is the best but from the looks I personally would have something like the auto tap so I could data log and see if everything is inline.
Hope this helps you out
Steven
As for seeing the car how it is doing they have differant programs
auto tap, ls1 edit (allows changing of peramiters where auto tap just. Then there is a scan master.
I personally have not used these so I will let others who have say which is best worst etc.... From the sounds of it the ls1 edit is the best but from the looks I personally would have something like the auto tap so I could data log and see if everything is inline.
Hope this helps you out
Steven
#7
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yeah
it was really close on the exhaust and we fixed that
i forget what kind of torque arm i got...supposed to be a good one.
i got the ds before the rear actually.
the pinion angle i'm not sure about.
i just dont want my car to fall apart...i haven't really launched it yet on a full pass. just a bit scurred i guess <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
trish
it was really close on the exhaust and we fixed that
i forget what kind of torque arm i got...supposed to be a good one.
i got the ds before the rear actually.
the pinion angle i'm not sure about.
i just dont want my car to fall apart...i haven't really launched it yet on a full pass. just a bit scurred i guess <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
trish
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Have you checked the ujoint to make sure it is the right size. Sounds like just maybe the rear was made with a 1350 and you have the 1310 for stock or is it 1330 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> been a while so forget what stock is. Check that if needed get a conversion ujoint
hope ya get your prob fixxed
Steven
hope ya get your prob fixxed
Steven
#11
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supposed to be brand new
but who knows right?
lol
changing the head gaskets now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
trish
but who knows right?
lol
changing the head gaskets now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
trish