bad news....motor out AGAIN
<small>[ July 31, 2002, 06:29 PM: Message edited by: cablebandit ]</small>
The area under the swirl dam is one of them.
On my first set of heads I ported them out pretty large.
After hearing about how thin they get,I used a sharp pick to check the port wall thickness.
Went right through the wall with light pressure on the pick <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> .
So I used J/b weld to build up the area. Ran it for a month or so without issue.
But I had to pull the motor again as I lost my ring seal( gapless rings did not work out).
So I decided to junk those heads at the same time and bought new heads.
This time I went easy on the porting.There is no real reason to do any hogging of the ports with boost.You can make gobs of power with boost.Just a nice bowl job, I opened the chambers and polished them and did a nice exhaust port.
Sorry to hear this.
That's not the first time I have heard this happening either.
Steve
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I cleaned my port area with lacquer thinner, roughed it up well and then torched it to open the pores.
My epoxy did not budge. I tried to see if it would come out when I got my new heads and no way.
It will not even chisel out. It needs to be grinded out.
But that is not what I was worried about.
I was more worried about the port cracking as it was so thin. The changes from 20" vacuum to 12psi boost and hot/cold water temps made me worry.
Guys have had these ports crack and water enter the motor.Not many mention it though.
Steve
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<strong>A local head porter did a stage one job on my heads. He got into a water jacket in one of the intake ports. He then patched it with JB-Weld. This came loose...flooded a cylinder and now I have a bent rod <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Looks to be no other damage tho. I will post some pics later today. I actually bent the rod trying to start the car after it shut off. had I pulled the plugs first or just left it alone, I would be fine probably. Live and learn...you see steam, find the problem first. Lucky for me I have the cometic gaskets and arp studs...all reuseable. ANYONE HAVE A STOCK ROD THEY WANT TO GET RID OF ASAP? I'm going to replace that and the bearings on that rod and put her back together. My next step is to install the motor and the tranny in the front sub frame assembly. Trailer it to a muffler shop, get me a 3" downpipe made and have a bigger crossover pipe fabbed up. Then I'll slap it back together and hit the dyno and track. I'm not too disappointed about the rod...hell it happens but the head porter.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> <img src="http://home.attbi.com/~lanierenv/rod03.JPG" alt=" - " /></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">you have mail
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JimmyKash:
<strong>No offense to your porter, but he must've either not work well with epoxy or just didn't prepare the surface right for it. The head porter i use has never had epoxy come out on him and he guarrantees it. If the surface isn't properly prepped for the epoxy, it will eventually fall out</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
<strong>I'm not a head porter, but I would be a big fan of one who didn't HAVE much experience with using epoxy...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">i understand where this statement comes from, but it isn't what you are thinking.
On a more of a race type setup head the porter i use will raise the roof of the intake port and fill the bottom of it where it has dead spots with epoxy to keep velocity up with large port heads
I've seen some of the power output of motors he's done heads on and i dont doubt him
to each his own though





